https://www.focusst.org/threads/clutch-master-cylinder-pedal-assembly-replacement-2016-focus-st.169662/?post_id=2694999&nested_view=1#post-2694999

 

Good information, thanks! I did not realize our clutch pedal assembly IS the clutch master cylinder.... Looks to be under $200 no matter where you buy it... at least its not terribly expensive.
Considering I need to install a clutch soon, might be a good time to do this along with the clutch hard line upgrade from JPC. Oh how fun...

 

Hey all... so Texas finally started to get some cooler weather. Its been freezing the last few nights, enough to cause school closures, delays, work places to close, etc (Texas is not very well prepared for freezing temps).

I went out to my car this afternoon to start it up and I noticed some liquid dripped onto the weather mat. Initially I thought 'brake/clutch' as its coming from the clutch assembly right above/behind the pedal.

The reservoir fluid level looks fine. Although I have not appeared to lose much yet. I even drove it for a 20min drive and it didn't appear to have any functional issues. There may have been slightly more on the floor when I got home, but I only notice a tiny bit seeping when I move the clutch in and out. Tried to post the video but we cant host here, and I'm not sure where people are hosting these days (used to be PhotoBucket but they're not free anymore).

Was hoping this was frozen water that had melted and got behind the seals of the firewall or something (expanded seal due to frozen water) but its not evaporating like water would. The odd thing is the fluid doesnt have a very noticeable clutch/brake fluid scent, and it doesnt keep a residue on my skin like brake fluid does. Maybe the colder weather is what caused the master cylinder seal to fail? Coincidence with the weather?

So with my smoking turbo post yesterday, this is just another fun issue to pop up after having 97k miles of pretty much no mechanical issues 🤦‍♂️ 😅

View attachment 424926

That's what mine looked liked when it failed in my last ST. Also during a cold spell with a single digit low day.

The clutch line actually enters the reservoir MUCH higher inside than it looks (from the outside)!

 

Yeah, this is what I'm afraid of. I just wish it would've lasted a little longer until I was ready to do the clutch install. I'm hoping my smoking issue is just a bad Radium PCV valve so i can focus on the clutch set up instead...really not wanting to do a clutch and then the turbo again back to back 🤦‍♂️

I'm guessing once you noticed the leaking on the floorboard, the clutch failed pretty soon after? Ill keep an eye on my reservoir, but I dont want it stranding me on a highway at night. I drive my ST a lot but may need to start driving my P4X for a while until i get all new parts for a clutch upgrade.

 

out of curiosity, how long can it take to replace the master cylinder? what needs to be removed to get to it?

 

Airbox, battery, knee airbag helps.
And disconnect and set aside steering linkage. Don't turn the wheel then!

You want the entire Ford pedal and master assembly to be sure it will work. Many parts stores will sell just the master that will work mechanically, but not electrically.

I left the switches attached to the wiring harness, just removed them from the pedal assembly and set aside. One unclips and one rotates.

Bleeding can be time-consuming if you don't have a pressure bleeder to reverse bleed (from the slave fitting) like Ford procedure.
Don't let the reservoir run over.

If you have a stock clutch line, remove the restrictor.
Don't lose any of the little rubber seals. The one up inside the master often sticks inside.

Time? Probably 2 hours minimum, but can take a LOT longer.

 

I'm at around 75K miles on my 2018 and am NOT looking forward to doing this job eventually.

 

It's not that bad, the hardest part for me was reinstalling the clips on the sensors on the pedal. I was able to reach the nuts holding the clutch pedal with various socket extensions and/or laying on my back (without having to remove the airbag or steering linkage.)

 

From what I've read and seen on a few videos, theres no need to remove dash pieces and airbags or steering components. Thats per the book i think.
If you remove the front driver seat, which is way easier than any other components...and use the right extensions...the hardest part should be the bits in the engine bay which are more tedious than difficult...and the sensor @rambleon84 mentioned that people seem to have trouble with since theres a metal part in the way.

Ive done my own turbo and everything else minus the clutch, which is coming soon... so this will just be about having the time to get it done. I've done clutches and engine swaps on other platforms in my garage before. I already need to remove the intake manifold and inspect my Radium PCV valve because it may be faulty after only 9k miles causing oil smoke under acceleration.

It just sucks because this was out of the blue...not sure if the colder weather triggered the plunger/rubber bit to fail or it was just pure coincidence and now I have a few things to deal with right when the weather is cold enough to not be able to really work on it.

 

Another issue I have is, years ago before a race weekend in Houston, I had a battery prematurely fail. No one was open on a Sunday except Walmart. I had them replace my battery and when I got it home, I found they had sprayed a ton of anti-acid cleaner ALL over the battery box and terminal areas. It very quickly ate at the paint and caused a ton of rust/corrosion to the 10mm bolts that hold the battery box down. The bolts are just piles of rust..and essentially will have to be drilled out to remove the box. I never had to remove the box even with the HPFP and Bluetooth ethanol sensor installs...but will have to for this. So I'm hoping I can drill out the bolts, extract them, and get replacement hardware. Ive been toying with just going with a lightweight battery set up instead as a solution (and performance gain) but I am not sure about having an expensive, race battery as a daily driver car.

 

Being that you have a facelift car, you will have the 3rd clutch sensor (the one in the engine bay). Make 100% sure if you buy a standalone master, it has the internal metal piece that this 3rd sensor picks up from. You won't be able to verify this visually.

You can try looking at the application chart, if it says it fits a focus RS, then it should have that piece inside.

 

Yeah i was just looking at the assembly online from multiple vendors, and it does not appear you get any additional sensors or electrical components..so I really dont see how a cylinder by itself will be any different than a full assembly that includes it.

I need to see if theres an actual part number difference in a pre-facelift vs facelift cylinder unit. I dont see a parts number breakdown on the vendor websites where you buy the whole thing from, only the part number (BV6Z-7519-AR) thats ensuring it does fit the facelift versions. AutoZone has screwed me over before on parts they claimed fit but did not fit newer models despite my insistence on verifying. Their system will say "2012 - 2018" or something..if thats the case, either the newer part with the 3rd sensor is simply unused when used in a 12-14, or its the same part and wont work right on the newer ones.

 

i may have missed it, but is there a normally mileage the clutch master goes out? my car has 138K an every now and then it feels a little spongy.
Thanks John

 

I dont think Ford has a clutch component maintenance schedule like with everything else.
Generally, every 10-20k miles its cabin and air filters, inspect fluids and brakes/suspension bits. Every 100k its change the coolant, trans fluid, and spark plugs....plus all the other stuff.
The clutch component system is sort of a 'if it fails replace it' thing if you notice slip, leaking, etc. I havent seen a Ford service manual that mentions expected mileage of clutch system components. Sponginess in your case could be low fluid/air in the system/dirty fluid (brake reservoir shares the same as the clutch, all one system). Especially if you're tracking it or its 100' out and you're hooning the back roads. The clutch pad itself could be getting worn. OEM fluid can get superheated and boil if you're pushing your brakes a lot, stock brake pads/fluid is junk for racing. Dont do any of the above with a OEM brake system 😅

You should be changing out the brake fluid as it gets dark, which isnt too bad if you just bleed from each corner. This will also ensure the clutch components see clean fluid.

 

So update, Ill be installing the assembly I received yesterday. It was available at a lot of places online, but I ordered from a trusted site and saved a little over the dealership cost ($185). This was Edge Auto Sports website, $153 with free shipping (only took a few days). I never realized Edge carried replacement parts. I wish JST did as I've purchased many big items from them. Either way, love still having the support for our platform for these kinds of products!

Funny thing is the fluid hasn't leaked a drop since the weather has been in the 60's late last week... but I'm going to swap this unit out anyways when I get the chance. I double checked the part number too (see pics for part #), shouldn't have any issue with this!