[[email protected]]

The Ford Ecoboost engine relys on 2 friction washers between the crank pulley and sprocket to help keep the motor in time. This works very well for stock power levels and even mild big turbo setups. Once you reach the 400whp mark, slipping timing can become a problem. This can lead to catestrophic engine failure amounting to thousands of dollars in repairs. We have developed a square keyway which locks the crank pulley and sprockets from slipping on the crankshaft and eliminates the need to replace the friction washers and crank bolt every time it is loosened.



FORD ECOBOOST KEYED PULLEY & GEAR - SPEED PERF6RMANC3

 

[go46ball]

View attachment 97449




The Ford Ecoboost engine relys on 2 friction washers between the crank pulley and sprocket to help keep the motor in time. This works very well for stock power levels and even mild big turbo setups. Once you reach the 400whp mark, slipping timing can become a problem. This can lead to catestrophic engine failure amounting to thousands of dollars in repairs. We have developed a square keyway which locks the crank pulley and sprockets from slipping on the crankshaft and eliminates the need to replace the friction washers and crank bolt every time it is loosened.



FORD ECOBOOST KEYED PULLEY & GEAR - SPEED PERF6RMANC3

you still have to cut the keyway into the crank though correct? So you need a good machine shop to turn too....

 

[[email protected]]

you still have to cut the keyway into the crank though correct? So you need a good machine shop to turn too....

Yes you need to still cut the keyway into the crankshaft.

 

[Bugasu]

I've been thinking about doing this for a while, especially now that I'm getting up there in power.

Whats the full verdict on doing this?
Can the crank be keyed without removing it?
If not, I'll probably just wait until I tear down the motor and build it

How sure are we on the 400whp slippage number?
My own car isn't keyed and I've been above that level for a little while, but I figure at my power levels I'm on significantly shortened time anyways

 

[go46ball]

I have not heard of one slipping yet....but I'm sure they will.

 

[[email protected]]

I've been thinking about doing this for a while, especially now that I'm getting up there in power.

Whats the full verdict on doing this?
Can the crank be keyed without removing it?
If not, I'll probably just wait until I tear down the motor and build it

How sure are we on the 400whp slippage number?
My own car isn't keyed and I've been above that level for a little while, but I figure at my power levels I'm on significantly shortened time anyways

You can't key the crankshaft in the engine you will need to take it out.
We work with couple rally race team that had problem with gear slipping little over 400hp and also another R&D company that had the same problem.

 

[Bugasu]

You can't key the crankshaft in the engine you will need to take it out.
We work with couple rally race team that had problem with gear slipping little over 400hp and also another R&D company that had the same problem.

I'll probably get around to building this engine sometime in the winter I hope, so I'll just ride it out until then. Once I have it out anyways, I might as well key whichever new one is going in, and it'll save me the work of removing it twice
I figured there wouldn't be enough access with it still in, but I'd ask anyways

 

[tangerineclean]

Do you guys give an option to send the customer a keyed crankshaft and charge them full price then refund them the "core charge" when they send back their stock crank. Just curious for those of us who can't afford a 2-3 week downtime on a motor build. Thank you!

 

[[email protected]]

Do you guys give an option to send the customer a keyed crankshaft and charge them full price then refund them the "core charge" when they send back their stock crank. Just curious for those of us who can't afford a 2-3 week downtime on a motor build. Thank you!

Yes we do!

We can also sell you a brand new keyed crank if you dont want the downtime as well.