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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy,
Just installed the Breedt shift arm yesterday. I've got it in the P2 position (39% reduction and 25 mm forward). Everything else in the car is stock. Did quite a lot of driving around town today and have a couple questions:

1) To me, the shift effort needed is quite higher than stock. I've read quite a few posts where folks say it's not too much different from stock, but to me it's very noticeable. Is it possibly because it's just new to me? Anyone else run into this?

2) When getting out of reverse, I used to be able to just move the shifter straight down and then let go and it would slide out of reverse and into neutral. Now, if I go straight down in reverse and let go, it just stays in that locked position and I have to do a second motion to the right to get it out of the reverse dogleg and back into neutral. Make sense? Anyone else have this issue?

Just wanted to see what opinions were and to make sure I didn't screw up the install somehow. The shifts are obviously much shorter and with the extra force needed they seem to be a bit more notchy...almost too much so. I'm going to keep it like it is for a few weeks minimum before I go and change anything. I've got the Boomba shifter base bushings as well, but not installed yet.

Thanks,
Brett
 

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While I don't have the Breedt, I did install the Mountune Quick shift. My shifts are approximately 25% shorter, but there is a bit more force necessary when shifting. Reverse requires the most strength of all. My understanding is that all the aftermarket shifter mods make it a bit rougher, and more notchy. I love mine though.
 

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Completely normal. More reduction=more effort, have to shift into 1st before R


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Been running the Breedt in P2 for 3 years. Really don't notice any effort and don't miss the long throws. A little stiff when it's around freezing in the morning, but that's normal.
 

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I had the same issue. Try replacing your bushing on the shift plate and shifter. It made a world of difference.


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Did you try P1 (24% reduction with 25mm forward neutral position)? The shorter the throw, the higher the shift effort, naturally, as the distance to the fulcrum is decreased.

I personally run mine on P4 which is a 25% reduction with stock neutral position and find it's a good balance between shift effort and throw length for a daily driver.

If anything you could also consider a heavier shift knob which will reduce the force from manual input needed to shift.


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks all.

Fidget08. When you say shift plate bushings, are you talking about something like the FSWerks shift bracket bushing kit? Sorry if its a dumb question...all the various shift bushings/short throw shifter options have me a bit confused. I plan on installing the Boomba shifter base bushings soon. Are those the "shifter" ones you refer to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sh0ebox,
Thanks for the info. I'm thinking about switching to the P1 position, but want to leave it where it's at for a few weeks to see if it grows on me.
 

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I changed the bushings and did the reduction with the boomba short shifter too. Its deff harder, even though plenty of people downplay it for some reason. Get a heavier shift knob which will help some, but some gears will just take some more effort now. For reverse, try going into second, then shift into reverse, for some reason seems to go smoother, also seems to work better with the tranny warmed up a little bit.
 

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Howdy,
Just installed the Breedt shift arm yesterday. I've got it in the P2 position (39% reduction and 25 mm forward). Everything else in the car is stock. Did quite a lot of driving around town today and have a couple questions:

1) To me, the shift effort needed is quite higher than stock. I've read quite a few posts where folks say it's not too much different from stock, but to me it's very noticeable. Is it possibly because it's just new to me? Anyone else run into this?

2) When getting out of reverse, I used to be able to just move the shifter straight down and then let go and it would slide out of reverse and into neutral. Now, if I go straight down in reverse and let go, it just stays in that locked position and I have to do a second motion to the right to get it out of the reverse dogleg and back into neutral. Make sense? Anyone else have this issue?

Just wanted to see what opinions were and to make sure I didn't screw up the install somehow. The shifts are obviously much shorter and with the extra force needed they seem to be a bit more notchy...almost too much so. I'm going to keep it like it is for a few weeks minimum before I go and change anything. I've got the Boomba shifter base bushings as well, but not installed yet.

Thanks,
Brett
Your reverse issue is a byproduct of your Breedt Setting. By having the shifter more forward than stock, the reverse lockout does not engage or operate as normal, its now misaligned. I have found that a quick snip of a smidge of the plastic reverse lockout under the shift boot will remedy this. If you pop your shift boot, you can see the interference, and what you should snip. Super easy and effective.
 
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