Do a stage 1 91 see if it goes away.

 

That's not very many knocks

 

all cars knock. its not going to hut the engine unless you're just predetonating like crazy.

 

Look at your ign corrections on all 4 cylinders,also your oct adj ratio.Those are more telling of what is going on than just viewing knock counts.

 

Just flashed back to 91 octane tune and now more knock

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You may want to look in a tune tailored to your mods. The OTS Cobb tunes are just a baseline. You would gain some drivability, power, and peace of mind working with a tuner. Something like the stratified tunes would be safer than the Cobb stock tunes


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My friend thinks their is something going on in cyl 2, it is out -2 degrees timing. so im getting a little worried here as i dont want to blow my motor while its still so young. should i just uninstall the accessport? until i get the knock figured out?

 

Check the gap on your plugs, maybe do a compression test. Those are some simple things that could rule stuff out. As far as general stuff make sure there isn't any metal banging out in the engine bay

 

i will be pulling the spark plug out tomorrow on my lunch break, he said to also try swapping the injectors to see if the knock goes to a different cyl to rule out the injector. for now i have uninstalled my accessport until we go searching for the cause. I will post an update tomorrow

 

Dude, you're chasing your tail. You need to contact Alex with stratified or another reputable tuner of your choice and do a custom tune tailored to your local fuel. All engines knock. The intensity of the knock is something we can't see because you aren't logging and posting a log. You need to see what your ignition corrections are on all 4 cylinders amongst many more parameters. Listen to us not your friend.

 

How do I post a data log? I've got a bunch under excel but I can figure out how to post it.

And my car is going into my work Wednesday under warranty to diagnose it


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http://datazap.me


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and what am i looking at/for?

 

Listening at the ticking noise


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We all tick these motors sound like a diesel


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This is more than usual


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Okay just an update, my coworker (shop forman at ford) told me that maybe i should try to "empty" the tank as much as i could then fill up with fresh 94 octane (93 for you guys), so i did and here is the latest data log that i just did 10 mins ago. datazap.me | Girds | Knocking

 

While the knock looks better,i would be concerned with the afr being so high.from 3,800-6,250 rpms your right around 12.0 afr,from 6,250-6,422 rpms it shows 12.2-13.08

 

Alex will tell you what's what for sure, but in the interim I can tell you that 1-2 knock counts per cylinder with the ECU pulling some timing is not super unusual.

If you are concerned that your gas quality is less than stellar, I'd go get a can of Tourco or some 100 octane race gas and see if the knocks go away. If they do, great, you need to run better gas (or dial down the tune a bit).

But, given that your charge air temp is nearly 100 degrees and at peak you are flowing 30 lbs/min of air, I'd say you are a good candidate for an FMIC.

Also, Alex has a list of variables he likes you to log; once you get them feel free to post another pull and I'm sure you'll get several opinions.

If it were me, I'd do the Tourco/race gas test first, and if the knocks are nigh eliminated then I'd either ask Alex to dial down the tune, or, get an FMIC and ask Alex to refresh your tune for the FMIC.

Hope that helps,
Mark

 

Now this post really helps thank you for your input. I have been looking into a fmic, do you think the cxracing one will be suffice? And one question will the fmic help lower my intake temps, I'd assume yes but it's always nice to he assured.

You are welcome!

As re FMIC, ideally it should be sized for what you want to do with the car.

If you are drag/track racing in hot climates, you'll probably want the big cp-e/Steeda or the Depo Racing "Beast" (nearly identical).

If the car is a daily driven aggressively, my personal recommendation would be the Steeda Street/Strip, the smaller cp-e or the smaller Depo Racing unit. The reason is that you will have zero fitment issues with those units and they all mate up to the stock hoses. The Mountune is very nice but it is expensive for what it is.

On two cars I know with the smaller Depo Racing and the Steeda Street/Strip unit, after 2nd through 4th gear pulls when the ambient air temp was above 80 degrees Fahrenheit, both units resulted in charge air temps under 10 degrees above ambient.

Alex at Stratified has a blog post on what mods to do in what order, and an FMIC is pretty much at the top of the list.

Note the Mountune is tube and fin design, like our stock intercooler, so you trade a little efficiency for a lower pressure drop across the core. The others I mentioned are all bar and plate design. The will have a little more pressure drop but are also a little more efficient. Like motor oil, there are plenty of folks who feel strongly about one design over the other, but again, for a daily driven in warmer climates my view is that both will work just fine for you.

YMMV, but hope that helps.

All the best,
Mark

 

You are welcome!

As re FMIC, ideally it should be sized for what you want to do with the car.

If you are drag/track racing in hot climates, you'll probably want the big cp-e/Steeda or the Depo Racing "Beast" (nearly identical).

If the car is a daily driven aggressively, my personal recommendation would be the Steeda Street/Strip, the smaller cp-e or the smaller Depo Racing unit. The reason is that you will have zero fitment issues with those units and they all mate up to the stock hoses. The Mountune is very nice but it is expensive for what it is.

On two cars I know with the smaller Depo Racing and the Steeda Street/Strip unit, after 2nd through 4th gear pulls when the ambient air temp was above 80 degrees Fahrenheit, both units resulted in charge air temps under 10 degrees above ambient.

Alex at Stratified has a blog post on what mods to do in what order, and an FMIC is pretty much at the top of the list.

Note the Mountune is tube and fin design, like our stock intercooler, so you trade a little efficiency for a lower pressure drop across the core. The others I mentioned are all bar and plate design. The will have a little more pressure drop but are also a little more efficient. Like motor oil, there are plenty of folks who feel strongly about one design over the other, but again, for a daily driven in warmer climates my view is that both will work just fine for you.

YMMV, but hope that helps.

All the best,
Mark

This does really help thank you I'll be surely looking into purchasing a fmic asap


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Take a data log of a 2nd gear or 3rd gear pull, make sure to add the pids ignition correction for cyl 1,2,3,4 and upload it to datazap.me and post the link so we can see what's going on. I had lots of knock with the cobb maps and the issue comes down to the motor moving too much due to lack of RMM, or the heat generated by the stock turbo.

 

I will post one today, but I can't have that many monitors data logging at once as I only have a v2 so what should I cancel data logging to add in the ignition corrections?


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damn.. i just pulled my last log and looked at it on datazap.. hell, i've got way more knock than you do.. i'm at 3,0,2,3 up top before I let out.

 

damn.. i just pulled my last log and looked at it on datazap.. hell, i've got way more knock than you do.. i'm at 3,0,2,3 up top before I let out.

View attachment 117424

Omg time to freak out and take it to the dealer for diagnosis! Lololol. Is your engine ticking too? That's serious.

 

It's crazy how much boost comes on as early as it does. 15.5 psi with the pedal only 2/3 the way down. I'm scared to open it up all the way but I should to see if I get any of the same thing as you

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im gonna run my 91 octane tune as of the drive home today.. until i figure out if I have an issue or not

 

all DI motors tick and ford motors are also known to knock

 

If I had a knock count of 1 per cylinder I wouldn't bat an eye. Under extreme situations seeing 2 would've get my attention either. I swapped to the 91 octane tune on the ride home and just monitored all 4 cylinders. For one quick 3rd gear pull, probably not even to 5k rpms I had a knock count on cyl 4 of 4. Seems a little extreme for my liking. Gonna do some research on here pretty hard tonight. And get a datalog to Alex ASAP.


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Well all of the engines know. Even on my stage 2 tune from stratified I see 1/2 knocks in some cylinders. Once you see know the tune will be very savy on adding timing. During some pulls you will see mor like on one one of my 3rd gear pulls i've seen knock count 4 on cyl 2 and timing -1.5 oO but it's to expected you need to be aggressive on pulling timing otherwise you gonna have a bad time.

I will show you my log of stage 2 tune from stratified and Steven says that they look very good.

Here is sample of my logs.

datazap.me | en0x | stratified

 

I've been having the same issue with my tune from mountune. I need to drive for a day or 2 they say but just doing a short pull in 3rd Gear I'm seeing 4's and a 7 in one cylinder. Even with colder plugs gapped at 0.28 and 93 octane. I'm probably going to switch to the cobb stage 1 tune. I don't feel safe driving with this tune.

 

Switched to cobb stage 1 before my ride to work this morning. Only 1 knock in each cyl. Did 4 short pulls. Last pull didn't knock at all. I'll probably stick with this for now until I get my fmic.

 

I am stage 1 93oct ots tuned from my Cobb accessport v2. My mods are custom catback and fswerks green filter. I just did a data log tonight and found this on my virtual dyno. Could anyone help here? I am hearing that our knock sensor may be overly sensitive but I am a little worried here.

I read the thread and didn't see you answer this: You did the log on level ground using the prescribed method (see thread on creating logs), correct? You can easily create knock by putting it in 6th at 2000 RPM and going WOT (heck, you can knock a piston right out of the motor and onto the pavement doing that). You can create knock going up a hill in the wrong gear.

 

The log was done in 4th gear on level ground. The knock was created by a bad batch of gas. I'm having no issues now.


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