Cars still misfiring but finally got a code for P0088. I'm gonna put on the stock downpipe and bring it into the dealership. 265s rub ever so slightly on full compression. Like the spring setup, the driver side front corner rubs the worst. I ended up getting 5in swift springs in the back and shortening the dampers via Feal solving my negative preload issue so the car does ride lower than it did before. I think if I turned up the dampening a little bit (its at 10/30 front and 13/30 rear) it would also prevent it from rubbing.
So... after throwing my stock downpipe on and flashing back to stock, I drove on stock tune for a couple weeks. It drove ok, it would still misfire but I wasn’t getting any codes other than the catless and ags code from before. I then brought it to the dealership, they diagnose the issue as the o2 sensor and the dp (which I just put back on) and replace them both under warranty. I get the car back drive for a day and take an on ramp a little hard. It immediately started doing what it did at Laguna with the car hiccuping and misfiring. I limp it back home and get a new CEL the next day for fuel rail over pressure and for various misfires. At the dealership they try telling me it’s my new ngk iridiums that I put in a couple weeks ago. But after a little persistence, they keep the car overnight and diagnose it as the hpfp. Luckily I’m at 38000 which should be under power train. Since replacing the hpfp the car has driven fine on stock tune but I have yet to really push it.
Upon further inspection it was rubbing on the inside of the fender liner as well probably from hitting big bumps on the highway. I raised the car by 5mm on the passenger side and 8mm on the driver side, seeing as it always rubs worse on the driver side. Tires were corded so I threw the stock size re-71s back on so no rubbing whatsoever for now. Got massive speed camber arms and endlinks. Camber arms were a pain to put in. Figured the best and fastest way is to use a c clamp and clamp the loose purple bushings together and then to hammer it into the knuckle. That took way too much time to figure out. Also, looking back I would say the Billet Godspeed camber arms are the better deal considering they’re $70+ cheaper. Looking through Instagram I saw that multiple fwd time attack record holder, Will Au-Yeung, used the same style arm on his record breaking time attack civic for 5 years. If it stands up to his use, it’s probably ok for us to use.
Also alignment again. This time after waiting like 3 weeks for an appointment at trackspec. Every shop I ask recommends them so here we are. Subframe i guess was shifted last time so it was as close as possible. Also had my weight in the driver seat (220lb). Recommendations were max front camber and caster, rear camber is roughly half a degree less than the front. Caster isn’t adjustable without specific plates. No toe and I guess adjust to preferences from there.