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Discussion Starter #1
I installed the CP-e Exhale Cold Charge Pipe with Tial Q BOV and your hot side charge pipe alongside the upgraded stock location turbo package from ATP (2867). The issue I'm having is under initial engine load from a stop, every so often I will hear what I'm believing to be the pipe bump against what I'm assuming is the A/C compressor (last time I was under the car I was starting to see some paint peeling). There really didn't seem to be a whole lot of clearance...Is this a known issue in the 2015's? If it is, is there a fix for this? I definitely don't think I installed the pipe incorrectly or don't have it torqued down enough, but anything is possible I suppose...Was just checking to see if anyone else has complained of this. I'll be under the car again on Wednesday. I can always take some pics if need be. Thanks.
 

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Which RMM do you have? I remember their website saying something about having a good RMM like their stage 2. I have the same pipe and it was pretty hard to install because of how wide it is, but I never had any issues as I have all 3 aftermarket mounts.
 

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I have a different manufacturer's charge pipes, and I will say that it isn't a cpe issue. There is literally barely any room between the compressor and the frame. My battle installing that thing is legendary (and will likely end up in kid's story books one day). I second the thought of having upgraded mounts to limit movement.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ahhh glad to see I'm not the only one with the issue. I'm running the Cobb RMM. I did think it was pretty insane how little room they give us to work with in all areas of the car actually now that I think about it. I guess I'll have to try and fabricate something to maybe try and soften the potential blow.... Like I stated, it doesn't happen all the time, just every once in awhile, but boy does it sound horrifying haha.
 

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Yeah we tried to design our charge pipes to fit with that size diameter part. We do recommend an upgraded RMM, which you have, but it's not 100%, just imagine if you have the oem RMM. Not to try to pitch our stage 2, but this is another reason why we designed our wishbone section as a solid piece and upgrade the bushing on the piece connected to the trans. Less movement.
Unfortunately, we do not have a resolution for you and adding a foam padding will eventually melt due to the heat. We are looking into something that will help this though.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah we tried to design our charge pipes to fit with that size diameter part. We do recommend an upgraded RMM, which you have, but it's not 100%, just imagine if you have the oem RMM. Not to try to pitch our stage 2, but this is another reason why we designed our wishbone section as a solid piece and upgrade the bushing on the piece connected to the trans. Less movement.
Unfortunately, we do not have a resolution for you and adding a foam padding will eventually melt due to the heat. We are looking into something that will help this though.
Ok, I have mixed feelings about this response, but at least now I know it is a known issue and is being worked on. Now, my main question is...Will the occasional knock under the initial load (again it doesn't do it 100% of the time...I'd guesstimate about 40%) cause any major damage to the pipe until such a time as a I can find a fix? $246.75 for a RMM is quite steep after dropping roughly 3-4k on all the equipment for my BT/WMI upgrade and already having the Cobb RMM which is now apparently a useless $159 down the drain (then again I may be able to sell it as used and make some of the money back...) It's basically sounding like I'm going to have to purchase your RMM or suffer for awhile and hope nothing breaks while you guys attempt to come up with an alternative fix. Well, guess I know where a portion of the next pay check is going! Thanks for the response.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Can you take pictures of the installed pipes? There might be a bit of wiggle room. Also make sure your t bolt clamp isn't pointed at the a/c compressor. Take a look at the attached picture. I have my angled downward.



Send from another galaxy.
I'll be under the car on Wednesday. I'll be sure to do so!
 

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Ok, I have mixed feelings about this response, but at least now I know it is a known issue and is being worked on. Now, my main question is...Will the occasional knock under the initial load (again it doesn't do it 100% of the time...I'd guesstimate about 40%) cause any major damage to the pipe until such a time as a I can find a fix? $246.75 for a RMM is quite steep after dropping roughly 3-4k on all the equipment for my BT/WMI upgrade and already having the Cobb RMM which is now apparently a useless $159 down the drain (then again I may be able to sell it as used and make some of the money back...) It's basically sounding like I'm going to have to purchase your RMM or suffer for awhile and hope nothing breaks while you guys attempt to come up with an alternative fix. Well, guess I know where a portion of the next pay check is going! Thanks for the response.
We are not forcing you to buy our stage 2 rmm, we were just explaining why we came to the decision of the resign of the stage 2. Your Cobb RMM is NOT money down the drain. As a few member of this forum have experienced this issue with other upgraded charge pipes from different manufacturers. Sorry for the confusion.
We cannot say for certain what will happen if the banging keeps happening. If you can post some pictures of the installation we may have some recommendations, but 40% of the time is quite high so it might just be a simple reinstallation and that % might drop significantly. Lets try to remedy your issues before you go ahead and start selling/buying new parts.
 

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Yeah we tried to design our charge pipes to fit with that size diameter part. We do recommend an upgraded RMM, which you have, but it's not 100%, just imagine if you have the oem RMM. Not to try to pitch our stage 2, but this is another reason why we designed our wishbone section as a solid piece and upgrade the bushing on the piece connected to the trans. Less movement.
Unfortunately, we do not have a resolution for you and adding a foam padding will eventually melt due to the heat. We are looking into something that will help this though.
OP and CP-E just a thought for end users using your product as I am one and had to do this with my CP-E cold side pipe with Tial bov. I too was having clearance issues and when dialing in my tune, trying to eliminate all possible false knock noise and knowing the pipe was contacting the compressor as I had the powder coat wearing in that spot. I took an old 3" diameter 4 ply coupler and cut a slice in it from top to bottom to open it, I wrapped that around the cold side pipe in that area. Secured it on with 2 zip ties on each end, the coupler is now an active barrier/cushion to keep the pipe from contacting the compressor.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
We are not forcing you to buy our stage 2 rmm, we were just explaining why we came to the decision of the resign of the stage 2. Your Cobb RMM is NOT money down the drain. As a few member of this forum have experienced this issue with other upgraded charge pipes from different manufacturers. Sorry for the confusion.
We cannot say for certain what will happen if the banging keeps happening. If you can post some pictures of the installation we may have some recommendations, but 40% of the time is quite high so it might just be a simple reinstallation and that % might drop significantly. Lets try to remedy your issues before you go ahead and start selling/buying new parts.
I by no means am singling your product out as being defective or anything of that nature, I was actually very satisfied with the quality. I am merely trying to remedy my issue before any expensive damage can potentially occur. I apologize if I came across that way. As stated above, I will be under the car tomorrow and will be more than happy to take pictures. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OP and CP-E just a thought for end users using your product as I am one and had to do this with my CP-E cold side pipe with Tial bov. I too was having clearance issues and when dialing in my tune, trying to eliminate all possible false knock noise and knowing the pipe was contacting the compressor as I had the powder coat wearing in that spot. I took an old 3" diameter 4 ply coupler and cut a slice in it from top to bottom to open it, I wrapped that around the cold side pipe in that area. Secured it on with 2 zip ties on each end, the coupler is now an active barrier/cushion to keep the pipe from contacting the compressor.
This was EXACTLY the route I was thinking of taking if all else fails. I'm assuming everything is running smoothly since you've done this?
 
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