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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all. I have a stock 2014 LW ST.

I've read all the advice given that I can find about doing upgrades.

I'm now wondering if it's worth going straight to the full COBB Stage 3 upgrade? Assuming money is not really an issue, is this the best bang for buck, or are there other alternatives that would work out better?

So my plan would be:

Symposer delete + COBB Stage 1 external drivetrain package (seems to be a complete short shifter package)
Wavetrac LSD
COBB Stage 3 Power kit
? Whiteline F & R Swaybar kit
? Coilovers? Other suspension upgrades? (Not lowering)

Is it worth upgrading the whole exhaust along with the Stage 3 kit? I don't want it to be loud but it would be nice to be able to hear the car better. But if airflow isn't an issue even with the upgraded downpipe, etc., then I don't care as long as I get a little extra noise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, the short answer is, I want it to go faster. When it's no longer my daily driver, I am keen to get it on a track from time to time. Not necessarily to race against anyone but myself though.
 

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The basic bolt-ons that will get you the morest power on this platform.
1) Get the biggest front mount intercooler you can.
2) 3 inch downpipe. with a catalyst or not. An 02 defouler is needed for all but the highest cell count catts. And the choice of catted or not usually comes down to trying to meet emissions compliance or not.
3) Cobb Accessport. its not the only game in town, but most of the etuners use it as its pretty much the best choice.
4) A custom etune, If you look around the forum long enough you'll see the same names come up. Without a tune everything still works, its just bling though.
5) Maybe a high-flow air filter. If you're daily driving it, you can probably leave the stock filter alone.
6) if you have ethanol available in your area you can get pretty good results with a blend like e30, all it requires is a tune and measuring out the correct fuels in the correct amounts.

After this, you're looking at watermeth injection or auxilary port injection and a bigger turbo. By the time you get the bolt ons sorted out, you'll have a better idea of what to do with these.

This isn't meant to be an exhaustive list. Just the bare bones of a build. Lots of good info on the forum and plenty of guys who can help you out.
 

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2014 MK3 FoST MRX EFR Turbo Tangerine Scream (German Built)
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Hi there, after years in this platform I have come to a conclusion if you want to go faster all you needs is basically 2 things (bang for the buck)

1) aftermarket FMIC
2) A nice custom tune to support it (i.e Cobb AP or whatever of your choice)

High Flow Filter, DP, CBE give very minimal gains and are more for sound and cosmetic look. Ford has done a pretty good job in maximizing the air induction system and the stock CBE flow easily even 350 whp. Better spend your money on better brake pads/ rotors, suspension components and a complete must fabulous set of tyres.

If the above power does not make you smile than simply go BT after that.
 

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2016 ST2, Shadow Black, E30, MonsterFMIC, GFB DVX+ BPV, ALEX' ShiftBushings, PCV-OCC, Innovative RMM
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I can see leaving out the 3" downpipe if all you can get is $800+ and you can't run catless.

CVF is supposed to be releasing a very affordable 400 cell downpipe soon that should work without a defouler.

The catback exhaust is what many do early for noise that has no performance benefit stock.
 

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Some great advice, thanks! Looks like I'll be spending a lot less than I thought.

@20focusSTdriver17 I did originally look at that but unfortunately it's a lot harder to get in Australia and the price is on par with going purely aftermarket. At least, last time I checked
I didnt even notice you were in Aussie, sorry mate, maybe the kangaroos can give you better option lol!! :p

I would check with ProAlloy about shipping, they are as good a quality as Mountune on hard parts but they dont do tunes.

Focus ST MK3
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I didnt even notice you were in Aussie, sorry mate, maybe the kangaroos can give you better option lol!! :p

I would check with ProAlloy about shipping, they are as good a quality as Mountune on hard parts but they dont do tunes.

Focus ST MK3
Thanks for that! I'll look into that as well. There is a local supplier that has a lot of good parts so I think I'll actually be pretty sorted.

Based on the suggestions in here, I've pretty much narrowed down my timeline to:

Short Shifter mod (I know there are a few options, some more thorough than others)
Symposer delete
LSD
FMIC + Cobb Accessport + Tune (I think the supplier can also do the tune)
Catback exhaust

I'm pretty happy with the brakes and suspension for now, until I start taking it to a track I just don't think it's worth the money. Plus I want to try and get used to controlling that lift-off oversteer before I do anything that might either make it better or worse :)
 

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@davidpardy I think you're on the right track there Hoss!

One thing I'll add is that if you go LSD (after the FMIC and COBB AP, of course :p) get yourself some back up fluids and plan to change them regularly if you're going to the track at all.

Spark plugs upgrade and proper gap is a pretty serious issue on this platform... Unlike anything I've ever driven man, seriously, lol! Scout here: Spark plugs!!!! Yes read this!!

There is also this to be aware of: The Purge (Valve): FUFF ([email protected]#% you ford fix) parts 1, 2... for the long run.

I run an AEM dryflow filter. Personally not likely to ever run an oiled filter ever again (K&N comes to mind), but it depends if you live in a dusty area or not. Oiled aftermarket filters will clog much faster in dusty environments and require more time during maintenance (might want to buy 2 so you can still drive while one is being re-conditioned!). In-cabin filtration is something of a personal option, but I pay for the super filtration inside the car and let the engine filter flow as much as possible.

Tires... Best bang for your buck on any platform 👹👺
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the advice! That's stuff I didn't know about the plugs but I'm guessing would explain why the car occasionally feels like it's about to stall when coming down to idle. I'll look at the links you've posted.

It also seems a lot of the advice is to do the LSD before the go faster bits, should I not do it this way? To be fair though, I'm probably going to try and get everything done in one go if I can ... I'm finding I'm less enthusiastic about working on cars these days!
 

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Thanks for the advice! That's stuff I didn't know about the plugs but I'm guessing would explain why the car occasionally feels like it's about to stall when coming down to idle. I'll look at the links you've posted.

It also seems a lot of the advice is to do the LSD before the go faster bits, should I not do it this way? To be fair though, I'm probably going to try and get everything done in one go if I can ... I'm finding I'm less enthusiastic about working on cars these days!
Doing an LSD on a FWD car is a bit of work, so often guys leave it until they're going to do a clutch and upgraded synchros at the same time. The brake vectoring works well enough in the meantime, its not really a requirement to install an LSD unless you're frequently torching tires and brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Doing an LSD on a FWD car is a bit of work, so often guys leave it until they're going to do a clutch and upgraded synchros at the same time. The brake vectoring works well enough in the meantime, its not really a requirement to install an LSD unless you're frequently torching tires and brakes.
Ok that's great advice! Thanks... Definitely not torching tyres and brakes yet. So that might be yet another job for when it becomes a track car
 

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Not to highjack the thread but since it was in his list…does the symposer delete offer any performance gain? I have tried to research it on here but nothing I have read definitively says it does or does not affect performance. Is it just a sound/preference thing?
 

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Not to highjack the thread but since it was in his list…does the symposer delete offer any performance gain? I have tried to research it on here but nothing I have read definitively says it does or does not affect performance. Is it just a sound/preference thing?
Preference, until the diaphragm leaks boost then you lose performance. Mine had a small tear about 40,000 mi but boost seemed almost normal.
 

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Not to highjack the thread but since it was in his list…does the symposer delete offer any performance gain? I have tried to research it on here but nothing I have read definitively says it does or does not affect performance. Is it just a sound/preference thing?
it's for the fake sound delete and to free up clutter under the hood/bonnet.
 
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Ok that's great advice! Thanks... Definitely not torching tyres and brakes yet. So that might be yet another job for when it becomes a track car
The RS front Brembos and Frankenbrake rear are good cheap upgrades to the brakes,along with proper fluid & pads.
 
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Does that mean it's better to find a blanking plate rather than one with a valve?
Its such an easy thing to change out that it doesn't mean anything one way or the other. The symposer could end up leaking but a block off plate could have the same problem. The preference is entirely down to whether you like the extra noise or you like the cleaner look in the engine bay.
 
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