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2013 Ford Focus ST1
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If it was me, I would do a SYNC3 screen and APIM upgrade and then convert the existing ACM to output variable line out, and wire those outputs back to the existing Sony DSP/AMP location in the hatch. The factory ACM is actually very good when converted to line out and feeding a proper aftermarket DSP/Amp/Sub setup. Check with @brianlovelace - he offers a wiring hardness that makes this simple (and also preserves the SYNC voice over and nav prompts as well).
 

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I do have a kit for this


Sent from my IN2020 using Tapatalk
 

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I do have a kit for this


Sent from my IN2020 using Tapatalk
Sounds good. I will take take a look. Thanks both of you guys!!
 

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So
I do have a kit for this


Sent from my IN2020 using Tapatalk
So the kit is basically plug and play? Any splicing required? I will probably find out where the harnesses go to around the time I order it.
 

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I do have a kit for this


Sent from my IN2020 using Tapatalk
I'm definitely interested... So this will keep all the functionality of the stock unit in terms of sync, etc. but allow for aftermarket amp and components to be used?
 

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if it works like most other ford vehicles(F150 for example), the climate control will still function perfectly normal with out the radio in there, the radio basically just a remote control and display, the climate control module still retains full functionality.


the biggest obstacle you will face is a dash kit... the ones for the ST1 (only aftermarket adapter made) still has the space for the small screen above the radio.
The Idatalink maestro dash kit gets rid of the hole for the small screen
 

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The Idatalink maestro dash kit gets rid of the hole for the small screen
Yes, you are correct. At the time of that post, I think idatalink only had kits for the F150 and Mustang. The new kits are a lot better than the original dash kit option was.

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Can you tell me which wires (color) from the display plug are the ones need to splice into the aftermarket head units harness? For power, ground, dimmer, speakers, etc?
you need an idatalink maestro rr module. The module, antenna adapter and dash kit will run you about $350.
 

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you need an idatalink maestro rr module. The module, antenna adapter and dash kit will run you about $350.
I know it’s possible to wire it without a $350 kit. When I first purchased this car it had an aftermarket head unit and trunk mounted amp. Me, not knowing, wanted to return it to factory configuration and did. Spliced all the factory wires back in and installed a pull-out Sync system. And...everything works but no volume and can’t come up with a solution other than returning it to the condition it was in when I bought it. The problem is, I don’t know which wires were used to splice into the aftermarket head unit harness. They had the head unit wired/spliced into the display plug, with an aftermarket amp spliced into the factory cargo area amp harness. I know it’s possible, I just don’t know which wires to use for batt, dimmer, etc.
 

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I know it’s possible to wire it without a $350 kit. When I first purchased this car it had an aftermarket head unit and trunk mounted amp. Me, not knowing, wanted to return it to factory configuration and did. Spliced all the factory wires back in and installed a pull-out Sync system. And...everything works but no volume and can’t come up with a solution other than returning it to the condition it was in when I bought it. The problem is, I don’t know which wires were used to splice into the aftermarket head unit harness. They had the head unit wired/spliced into the display plug, with an aftermarket amp spliced into the factory cargo area amp harness. I know it’s possible, I just don’t know which wires to use for batt, dimmer, etc.
I don't know I had the integration module and everything just plugged in there's only like two wires that I had to splice. I purposely bought an ST1 for that reason. So I don't have a factory amp in the trunk. I needed the module to retain factory backup camera steering wheel controls and supposed to retain sync but that's not working which is really no big deal.
 

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What's horrendous about it. That part below the radio is a door with a small storage compartment. It also has USB HDMI and fiber optic ports inside.
To me it just looks like what it is I guess - obvious aftermarket. Not to my taste I guess, but each to their own.
 
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