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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
My motor has given up the ghost. I'm trying to decide between the cost of a low mile OEM replacement or just doing it right once and for all with a built long block. As I consider the price differences I could sure use some help figuring out my options for OEM engines.

I know the 2.0 Ecoboost was used in the ST, Escape, Fusion and a few other cars. From a long block perspective are there any differences at all in these engines? I don't mind swapping accessories over, but at this point I don't want to get into messing with swapping heads which is why the long block would be preferred.

Thanks in advance for any help! Also, if anyone knows of a low mile OEM engine or a built engine for sale at a reasonable cost please point me in that direction.
 

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get a 2.3 out of a Ford Mustang eco? just find one that has hit a crowd and totalled out
The 2.3 is an open deck block; better off stoking a 2.0 and a larger turbo if that is the direction O.P. wants to go.
 

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All those 2.0's are the same with the exception of the oil cooler. Yours will bolt on however. In 2016 the escape and edge got the upgraded 2.0 and it will not work. That motor has the twin scroll head, 4 lobe exhaust cam and 30 mm exhaust valves. It also mounts a little different
 

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2.0 block with 2.3 head swap for twin scroll turbos, the bees knees.

Listen to DDfred, he knows things.'


What happened to your engine anyway?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
All those 2.0's are the same with the exception of the oil cooler. Yours will bolt on however. In 2016 the escape and edge got the upgraded 2.0 and it will not work. That motor has the twin scroll head, 4 lobe exhaust cam and 30 mm exhaust valves. It also mounts a little different
This is really helpful info. Thanks! I'm seeing low mileage Escape motors, but most of them are 2016 & 2017 so I'll steer clear of those. The Edge motors seem to run a several hundred dollar premium used, which is interesting since there's no reason. I may like look more into possibly using a Fusion motor instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The 2.3 is an open deck block; better off stoking a 2.0 and a larger turbo if that is the direction O.P. wants to go.
I'm actually reassessing my goals. This is my DD, and since I'm a family man with a motorbike to satisfy the main need for speed I had always planned to keep the ST stock turbo. But now I'm reassessing, as it'd be nice to go with a stage 1 built motor and have more options down the road. Plus with the somewhat fragile fractory rotating assembly I'm rethinking that, as I don't want to be going thru this again in another 45K (I tend to hold onto my cars for many years).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What happened to your engine anyway?
I'm not 100% sure as it's hard to see around the accessories and other stuff, but based on the aluminum shrapnel I'm pretty sure I threw a rod. It sucks too, as I was not pushing it at all. Just getting on the highway, accelerating at a normal speed when there was such a loud/violent explosion that for a moment I thought I had hit a cinder block or something. No detonation or anything else prior to give me any concern, and I know enough about LSPI to have made sure I was not in too low a gear. I also wasn't revving it out or anything as I was in no particular hurry that morning.

Car dumped all the oil in just a few feet, and the engine bay and RF suspension is all covered in it. Given the chunks of the block that I've found so far this also creates a problem if I go with an engine rebuilder that requires a core or charges a significant core charge.
 

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Going to assume you are tuned/modded, just because that's the luck.
Probably not even related but will be to blame. Unless you do just love beating on your car etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Going to assume you are tuned/modded, just because that's the luck.
Probably not even related but will be to blame. Unless you do just love beating on your car etc.
I drive spirited but don't think I beat on it and rarely wind it out high RPM. I also keep an eye on the oil temp and never get into the boost much until the car is warmed up.

And yes, I was tuned and modded but pretty tame. 3.5" Depo intercooler, OCD cattless DP, Cobb exhaust and a Mountune filter is all the hard parts. I was also E85 Strattified tuned, but I was running the E85 as it's readily available here and for the greater knock resistance. I had stressed to the tuner that longetivity was much more important to me than peak power numbers, so I had asked for a tune that was more focused on being safe than absolute power.

I sure wish I had been logging at the time so I could get a better idea of what the heck happened. Interestingly there's not even a check engine code on the car, which made me laugh as I was sitting waiting on the tow with a car that now has a ventilated block.
 

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I'm actually reassessing my goals. This is my DD, and since I'm a family man with a motorbike to satisfy the main need for speed I had always planned to keep the ST stock turbo. But now I'm reassessing, as it'd be nice to go with a stage 1 built motor and have more options down the road. Plus with the somewhat fragile fractory rotating assembly I'm rethinking that, as I don't want to be going thru this again in another 45K (I tend to hold onto my cars for many years).
The factory rotating assembly is not all that fragile; usually it is ringland (piston) failure that takes out most mildly modded 2.0 ecoboosts that let go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The factory rotating assembly is not all that fragile; usually it is ringland (piston) failure that takes out most mildly modded 2.0 ecoboosts that let go.
That's good enough info. I know it's just speculation at this point until I pull the engine, but is it possible a ringland failure could blow a hole in the block, like exploding blow by or something? I'd think it'd have to be a tossed rode or broken crank, but can't see how it could be either given the relatively low revs and low load at the time.
 

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I've never seen a ringland failure blow a hole in the block but I do know that in most cases, a broken rod will punch a hole in the block, oil pan, etc.
 

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U can get a full escape 2.0 motor turbo and all for about 1k. I got mine on ebay from a escape 2015 that was totaled after 648 miles . Rear ended just make sure to run vin and look at mileage . Then my 2014 totaled so got 2017 .now gonna send motor to get stage 3 long done .
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I've never seen a ringland failure blow a hole in the block but I do know that in most cases, a broken rod will punch a hole in the block, oil pan, etc.
Yeah, I can't imagine anything other a broken rod or crank (highly unlikely) ventilating a block. That being said I also don't understand how just regular acceleration on a safely tuned vehicle could snap a rod at low RPM's (guessing 3-4K). No signs of detonation prior to that either, so I'm puzzled why it'd just toss a rod like that. Should be interesting when I finally get a chance to tear it down and inspect the components.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
U can get a full escape 2.0 motor turbo and all for about 1k. I got mine on ebay from a escape 2015 that was totaled after 648 miles . Rear ended just make sure to run vin and look at mileage . Then my 2014 totaled so got 2017 .now gonna send motor to get stage 3 long done .
Thanks for the great info! I did some searching on eBay today and am shocked at the huge supply of Escape motors that are available. It's very tempting to go this route for now, and table the built motor until I'm ready to do a 2.3 stroker.

Do we know for sure what year range Escape motors will work? The comparability tool seems to think anything 2016-under will work, but I'm not sure if it's really 2015-under that I need to get if I'm looking for a direct swap.
 

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Thanks for the great info! I did some searching on eBay today and am shocked at the huge supply of Escape motors that are available. It's very tempting to go this route for now, and table the built motor until I'm ready to do a 2.3 stroker.

Do we know for sure what year range Escape motors will work? The comparability tool seems to think anything 2016-under will work, but I'm not sure if it's really 2015-under that I need to get if I'm looking for a direct swap.
Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market
 

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That's good enough info. I know it's just speculation at this point until I pull the engine, but is it possible a ringland failure could blow a hole in the block, like exploding blow by or something? I'd think it'd have to be a tossed rode or broken crank, but can't see how it could be either given the relatively low revs and low load at the time.
If you were unlucky enough to get a bad crank or rod from the factory it could let go at low load/rpm. Bottom end failure on these does not seem to be a high percentage of the engines that blow.
 
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