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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2016 st. The only performance mods I have are the Borla catback, and a ts bov. I'm just wondering...I want to buy and intake, and a downpipe, and a cobb accesport next, but then I'll have all the bolt ons besides a big turbo and the FMIC. My question is, would it be already to do these upgrades before getting a new FMIC??? I know they help keep cooler temps I just dont know. Please help thanks!!
 

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I have a 2016 st. The only performance mods I have are the Borla catback, and a ts bov. I'm just wondering...I want to buy and intake, and a downpipe, and a cobb accesport next, but then I'll have all the bolt ons besides a big turbo and the FMIC. My question is, would it be already to do these upgrades before getting a new FMIC??? I know they help keep cooler temps I just dont know. Please help thanks!!
Intake and intercooler, then downpipe would be my recommendation.... how do you like the BOV? I was tempted but my car is pretty loud with the turboback exhaust so I am not sure if I want to draw any more attention
 

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FMIC!!!! This has been extensively covered on this site. The OEM FMIC is complete garbage, not only does it rob power, but its a contributor to engine failure due to excessive intake temps and poor driving judgement.

FMIC!!! Do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have a 2016 st. The only performance mods I have are the Borla catback, and a ts bov. I'm just wondering...I want to buy and intake, and a downpipe, and a cobb accesport next, but then I'll have all the bolt ons besides a big turbo and the FMIC. My question is, would it be already to do these upgrades before getting a new FMIC??? I know they help keep cooler temps I just dont know. Please help thanks!!
Intake and intercooler, then downpipe would be my recommendation.... how do you like the BOV? I was tempted but my car is pretty loud with the turboback exhaust so I am not sure if I want to draw any more attention
I love the turbosmart bov. It can be a little much at times, but racecar...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
FMIC!!!! This has been extensively covered on this site. The OEM FMIC is complete garbage, not only does it rob power, but its a contributor to engine failure due to excessive intake temps and poor driving judgement.

FMIC!!! Do it right.
Thanks for the advice man. I'm still pretty new to this stuff. I was thinking I'm gonna the cobb fmic when I do. I notice a lot of them are half the price, but don't come with bigger pipes or something??
 

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Thanks for the advice man. I'm still pretty new to this stuff. I was thinking I'm gonna the cobb fmic when I do. I notice a lot of them are half the price, but don't come with bigger pipes or something??
Well, I think the COBB requires some hole drilling, and honestly you won't see much of a benefit of bigger pipes unless you go big turbo. Check out the FMIC thread and you will find the same reasoning.

I definitely agree that the FMIC is a must before the downpipe though!
 

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Thanks for the advice man. I'm still pretty new to this stuff. I was thinking I'm gonna the cobb fmic when I do. I notice a lot of them are half the price, but don't come with bigger pipes or something??
The bigger pipes won't do anything for you unless you're going big turbo. The stock pipes outflow the turbo as it is. I'd save money and not go Cobb because the Cobb unit is actually rather small opposed to CPE/Depo Racing/Steeda (Steeda is CPE made) and others which are WAY cheaper. Shop around.

Edit: Also, the 3 I named and most others do NOT require drilling or modification. Take the stock off and put the new on. Simple process.
 

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1. RS air box
2. Intercooler
3. Downpipe / AP3

Id do #3 at the same time, otherwise, it will require a retune if you add the downpipe after you installed an AP3. #1 and 2 will work on stock tune fine.
 

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1. FMIC - Lowers charge temps, reduces heat soak, the stock IC is awful, retain power.
2. Downpipe - open up the exhaust more, gain a tiny bit more power, more rumble
3. Intake - Your choice, but it has been extensively covered that they provide almost zero performance gain. If you want the sound you can just get a high flow filter. If you have a BOV you won't notice the sound anyways.

This is the order I would recommend. Are you going to tune the car in the future? Silly me...if you are on this forum then of course you are haha.
 
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1. FMIC - Lowers charge temps, reduces heat soak, the stock IC is awful, retain power.
2. Downpipe - open up the exhaust more, gain a tiny bit more power, more rumble
3. Intake - Your choice, but it has been extensively covered that they provide almost zero performance gain. If you want the sound you can just get a high flow filter. If you have a BOV you won't notice the sound anyways.

This is the order I would recommend. Are you going to tune the car in the future? Silly me...if you are on this forum then of course you are haha.
In response to the part in bold, I know right? LOL
 

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I started with a Frankenstein intake setup and tune. I'm doing the FMIC next. Then I'll do the downpipe, exhaust and new tune together.

If you plan on going all the way I don't think it really matters how you get there. Just get there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
1. FMIC - Lowers charge temps, reduces heat soak, the stock IC is awful, retain power.
2. Downpipe - open up the exhaust more, gain a tiny bit more power, more rumble
3. Intake - Your choice, but it has been extensively covered that they provide almost zero performance gain. If you want the sound you can just get a high flow filter. If you have a BOV you won't notice the sound anyways.

This is the order I would recommend. Are you going to tune the car in the future? Silly me...if you are on this forum then of course you are haha.
Shouldn't I tune my car when I get my next part? I already have an exhaust and a HF Air filter. I've heard if you put more than an exhaust on you should go ahead and tune at that point?
 

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Shouldn't I tune my car when I get my next part? I already have an exhaust and a HF Air filter. I've heard if you put more than an exhaust on you should go ahead and tune at that point?
Ummm I don't think that is 100% accurate. You CAN tune it pretty much whenever you want. It is advised to get all your bolt-on's done first though (exhaust, intake, bov, dp, etc.) so the tuner can take all of that into account. Otherwise you will have to have a revision done when you add new parts. This isn't a big deal, but it just costs money for revisions.

If you are just going to stick with the cobb tunes then it doesn't matter as much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Shouldn't I tune my car when I get my next part? I already have an exhaust and a HF Air filter. I've heard if you put more than an exhaust on you should go ahead and tune at that point?
Ummm I don't think that is 100% accurate. You CAN tune it pretty much whenever you want. It is advised to get all your bolt-on's done first though (exhaust, intake, bov, dp, etc.) so the tuner can take all of that into account. Otherwise you will have to have a revision done when you add new parts. This isn't a big deal, but it just costs money for revisions.

If you are just going to stick with the cobb tunes then it doesn't matter as much.
I dont think I fully understand how the accessport works. Does it have tunes based on the EXACT parts you have? Like if I had a borla and say a cobb intake? Would there be a specific tune for that?
 

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I dont think I fully understand how the accessport works. Does it have tunes based on the EXACT parts you have? Like if I had a borla and say a cobb intake? Would there be a specific tune for that?
The AP come pre-loaded with several COBB maps. Stage 1, 2, & 3 for different octanes that you might be running and even a stage 0 for a stock car. You can use these as they are a "one size fits all" depending on what stage you are at. Other tuners like Stratified, Unleashed, Freak Tune, etc. will build you a tune that is tailored towards what you have on your car so it is more dialed in.

In short: The AP by itself has tunes for whatever you, but not item specific, just stage specific. Other tuners will build a tune for your specific exhaust, intake, bov, dp, fmic, and other parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I dont think I fully understand how the accessport works. Does it have tunes based on the EXACT parts you have? Like if I had a borla and say a cobb intake? Would there be a specific tune for that?
The AP come pre-loaded with several COBB maps. Stage 1, 2, & 3 for different octanes that you might be running and even a stage 0 for a stock car. You can use these as they are a "one size fits all" depending on what stage you are at. Other tuners like Stratified, Unleashed, Freak Tune, etc. will build you a tune that is tailored towards what you have on your car so it is more dialed in.

In short: The AP by itself has tunes for whatever you, but not item specific, just stage specific. Other tuners will build a tune for your specific exhaust, intake, bov, dp, fmic, and other parts.
So could someone layout for me, what exactly defines stage 1, 2, and 3?
 

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So could someone layout for me, what exactly defines stage 1, 2, and 3?
Not everyone on here likes the term "stage" because it represents a pre-determined group set that a lot of people just throw around to say that their car is "stage 3 bro!", but with that being said I will give you a broad and general break down. BTW I am fine using the terms stage because generally most will know what I am talking about.

Stage 0 - Stock

Stage 1 - Simple Bolt-ons like: Intake, Exhaust, BOV.

Stage 2 - FMIC

Stage 3 - Catless Downpipe, upgraded brakes, and other big ticket and finish out items.

Now there is now concrete stage 1, 2, & 3 and people will interpret it differently, but this what I think they are for our car.
 
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