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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have posted about this recently, but the last time I posted I was intrigued that my Ignition Correction was above +10. Lately I have noticed on WOT pulls that it is going the whole way to +16 and higher ignition correction.

Is my tune way too conservative? It seems like I'm so far in the green that it's robbing my car from a lot of potential extra power.

Over the next few months I plan on getting a DP and FMIC to go full Stage 3 and I'll need a reflash, is my current Ignition Correction anything to make note of for future?
 

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this is off your topic but I too and going to be getting DP and FMIC withing next month or so and that you also run the Stratified tune. My question is do you know if we will have to fully buy a new tune when install FMIC and DP or will they give us a discounted price for new tune.

Again sorry this is off your original topic lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
this is off your topic but I too and going to be getting DP and FMIC withing next month or so and that you also run the Stratified tune. My question is do you know if we will have to fully buy a new tune when install FMIC and DP or will they give us a discounted price for new tune.

Again sorry this is off your original topic lol
Stratified charges a price to reflash your tune to your new mods. I want to say it's 50 or 100 bucks. @[email protected] can probably answer that if he's still online unless someone looks it up. I would but I'm at work lol.
 

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So I have posted about this recently, but the last time I posted I was intrigued that my Ignition Correction was above +10. Lately I have noticed on WOT pulls that it is going the whole way to +16 and higher ignition correction.

Is my tune way too conservative? It seems like I'm so far in the green that it's robbing my car from a lot of potential extra power.

Over the next few months I plan on getting a DP and FMIC to go full Stage 3 and I'll need a reflash, is my current Ignition Correction anything to make note of for future?
Post a picture, because I think you're reading the wrong input. Most likely you are seeing total timing of which ever cyl, ign correction per cyl is set to +6 max now (doesn't read higher).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Post a picture, because I think you're reading the wrong input. Most likely you are seeing total timing of which ever cyl, ign correction per cyl is set to +6 max now (doesn't read higher).
This may be where my misunderstanding is then, I am looking at the "Ignition Correction Max" gauge. Not the individual cylinders. It will go up and up and up after it starts going under load and max out at 16+ at times. When I get off work I can take a shot of it if I remember.
 

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I'm not 100% on this, but I suspect the Ign Corr Max data is a sum total of the maximum positive corrections from all 4 cylinders.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The parameters you want to monitor are the Ign Corr 1-4. This will indicate timing added as well as removed from each cylinder.
If only we had more than 6 gauges lol
 

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Is this how you read it i.e. positive numbers of +0.5 = adding 0.5* away from from TDC = retarding timing and vice versa ?
Not from top dead center, but from what all the tables would spit out for target timing at that moment in time, given all the other variable inputs.

As your OAR goes more negative, all other things being equal you should see smaller positive ignition corrections -- presuming you weren't already hitting the maximum, which for Stratified Flash tunes has historically been 4.0. I believe some other tuners have a higher maximum positive ignition correction.

Recall that best performance and generally best emissions are obtained running the car right on the edge of knock. So OAR compensates for good/bad gas by adjusting, and that creates a kind of multiplier for all the other adjustments inherent in the tune file.

If you do a pull and you get some knock events, the tune will both retard timing during the pull and in many cases move OAR to a less negative number.

Knock events during low load conditions (like shifting during a pull) are not uncommon and not a problem.

Some minor negative ignition correction isn't a problem either, along with a knock event or two. Ideally you should see timing added during part throttle pulls at lower rpms.

If that's what you get with OAR down at -1.00, then you've got good gas for that tune and you are a candidate for a custom tune if you want more output.

Hope that helps,
Mark
 
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If only we had more than 6 gauges lol
I have mine set on my APv3 to read actual a/f, boost, Ign Corr 1-4 that's all you need. Now when you log you get a lot more options and each tuner will ask you to set what they want to see in the log.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have mine set on my APv3 to read actual a/f, boost, Ign Corr 1-4 that's all you need. Now when you log you get a lot more options and each tuner will ask you to set what they want to see in the log.
I have Actual AFR, Boost, Ign Correction Max, Charge Temp (Probably be replaced), OAR, Estimated Torque (Which seems very inaccurate and will be replaced)
 
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