[shineboy]

At ~55,900 my car flipped out driving down highway. Take it to Ford and no issues found.... now 2 days in a row. Car even text me to get off the road. WTH (there is s video not sure why it is not loading)

How do I get video to load?

Edit - since video is not loading, tach drop to zero, all dash lights come on, say engine fault... crazy stuff, all while driving, all errors light up

Bad pic but going down highway, tach temp go to zero

 

[Cowlynz]

what year is your ST? What, if any, modifications do you have?
There was a recall for a wiring issue .

 

[shineboy]

what year is your ST? What, if any, modifications do you have?
There was a recall for a wiring issue .

2013
Recall, TSB, performed ~2 years ago, never had an issue before or after
No tune
Other mods I don't think matter, filter exhaust, Montune intake, shifter and shift arm

I have looked every where for chaffed wires, check grounds etc, I cannot seem to find or see anything. I had a similar issue 2 months ago and they reflashed the ECU.

Dealer does say car has multiple network codes but cannot find a problem. Clear codes, perform network test and all pass. Going to drop it off next week for extended stay and they need to open a case with Ford...

 

[ddfred]

Are you feeding them after midnight? Could be why they're acting up.

Seriously though, that sounds strange, no clue.

 

[shineboy]

Are you feeding them after midnight? Could be why they're acting up.

Seriously though, that sounds strange, no clue.

Could be why it only does it first thing in the morning!!

Scary also dealer said they have never seen the issue before

 

[Memphis-ST]

Might check your battery. My focus was throwing codes that made no sense when the battery was dying.

 

[shineboy]

Might check your battery. My focus was throwing codes that made no sense when the battery was dying.

Will load test it after the holiday but it is only 11 months old

 

[Duchess]

I'm also thinking it's the battery. If it is and you let it go too long, it could kill your alternator. The OEM battery in my SE only lasted about a year (~50k miles). Replacement lasted until the end. It was a pretty small battery (at least in the SE), so not a lot of excess capacity.

 

[shineboy]

I'm also thinking it's the battery. If it is and you let it go too long, it could kill your alternator. The OEM battery in my SE only lasted about a year (~50k miles). Replacement lasted until the end. It was a pretty small battery (at least in the SE), so not a lot of excess capacity.

Oem went 3 years, was leaking around the terminal. Replacement has 12.5 volts with no load....

Gives me an idea. I should data log it

 

[LockeLamora33]

My newer ford truck battery went after 6 months...it had codes going wild, my power steps engaging while I drove and a whole bunch of other craziness. New battery and everything was fixed.

 

[shineboy]

So the battery... @ 27F this morning had 12.5 volts, running alternator is kicking out 14.5 volts. I will load test it after the holiday but I would think if it had a bad cell it wouldn't be intermittent... not sure though

 

[ddfred]

I'm still running with the factory battery, although I am getting ready to change it soon as the car will sit for 9 days at the airport this Christmas. Been going strong since September 2012. Several others have reported strange things happening when their batteries went in the past now that I think about it.

 

[shineboy]

Load test the battery was fine... Advance auto battery if that matters. Check my grounds under air box and all good there. Cleaned them up while there.

Car is now with Ford, 3 days in, they see multiple network codes but cannot find the reason

 

[shineboy]

PCM is getting replaced.... I am not surprised

 

[shineboy]

So disappointed, PCM replaced and no cure. 10 miles since replacement and... well pic or video days it alll

 

[LMStone510]

How about the grounds on the driver's frame rail? There's two underneath the battery tray (you need to remove the battery and the undertray to get to them), and a few underneath the airbox.

Hope that helps!
Mark

 

[shineboy]

How about the grounds on the driver's frame rail? There's two underneath the battery tray (you need to remove the battery and the undertray to get to them), and a few underneath the airbox.

Hope that helps!
Mark

Good call but...cleaned and secured before any of this crap started. I did double check them when it started, they were in good shape.

 

[Duchess]

Could still be the alternator. I had one of the diode packs go bad on the alternator on my old Subaru, but it was an intermittent fault that was generally good (could have been a failing solder joint or something similar). Hook it up to test and it was fine. I suspected it was still a problem due to having almost 250k miles on it and just happened to catch it when I performed another test for the hell of it just before replacing.

 

[hawkeye18]

Could still be the alternator. I had one of the diode packs go bad on the alternator on my old Subaru, but it was an intermittent fault that was generally good (could have been a failing solder joint or something similar). Hook it up to test and it was fine. I suspected it was still a problem due to having almost 250k miles on it and just happened to catch it when I performed another test for the hell of it just before replacing.

In theory a battery test at AAP or AZ will catch bad diodes or diode packs. Even a moderately sophisticated battery tester, like the $60 hand held one I have, will test diodes in the alternator.

What battery load test will not test, however, is a rectifier that has failed in a specific way: DC ripple smoothing. The output of the diode packs is ripple DC voltage - essentially the bottom part of the sine wave is flipped up so it looks like a bunch of McDonalds' logos lined up next to each other. The rectifier smooths this via a tuned inductor/capacitor (LC) circuit, then regulates the output voltage via a number of different means. Usually the voltage regulator part on them fails since it contains active circuitry, but it's possible that the rectifier portion failed and is outputting, in essence, dirty-ass power.

It's kind of a long shot, tbh, and I'd look at a dozen other things before I put an oscilloscope on the B+ terminal, but it seems you've done most of them already and nothing's fixed it. A load test comes up positive and you've double-checked all your grounds; there isn't much else to check, other than to start shotgunning modules and hoping you replace the right one--which would be hideously expensive and super time-consuming, by the way--or setting fire to the ****er.

Does the PCM have a dedicated ground? I don't know if it does or not, but if it does, have you checked that?

 

[shineboy]

In theory a battery test at AAP or AZ will catch bad diodes or diode packs. Even a moderately sophisticated battery tester, like the $60 hand held one I have, will test diodes in the alternator.

What battery load test will not test, however, is a rectifier that has failed in a specific way: DC ripple smoothing. The output of the diode packs is ripple DC voltage - essentially the bottom part of the sine wave is flipped up so it looks like a bunch of McDonalds' logos lined up next to each other. The rectifier smooths this via a tuned inductor/capacitor (LC) circuit, then regulates the output voltage via a number of different means. Usually the voltage regulator part on them fails since it contains active circuitry, but it's possible that the rectifier portion failed and is outputting, in essence, dirty-ass power.

It's kind of a long shot, tbh, and I'd look at a dozen other things before I put an oscilloscope on the B+ terminal, but it seems you've done most of them already and nothing's fixed it. A load test comes up positive and you've double-checked all your grounds; there isn't much else to check, other than to start shotgunning modules and hoping you replace the right one--which would be hideously expensive and super time-consuming, by the way--or setting fire to the ****er.

Does the PCM have a dedicated ground? I don't know if it does or not, but if it does, have you checked that?

Thanks, some that is over my head lol. Biggest issue for me is I am at ~56,250 miles on it, so close to the end of warranty

I have double checked the grounds under the air box. I am not sure about the PCM but I will assume Ford checked it when they replaced it Friday. I will look at it today. I have my reservations about the dealer, auto up/down on windows still functions post PCM swap. Didn't disconnect the battery to replace the PCM? They have never reset the windows before...

The battery was tested at the auto parts store, hand held, while running and off. All was good.

I put a volt meter on the car running was my only test for the alternator, putting out 14.5 running. I don't have access to an oscilloscope

Ford initially re flashed PCM, then replaced it.

It is a weird problem:

1. Doesn't do it everyday

2. When it occurs it is within the first 5 minutes/2 miles of driving

3. When it occurs the computer cannot be scanned, say needs to be running even though the car is driving going down the road. Cannot run vehicle heath report either

4. After a few minutes of the gauges going up and down it will settle out and the airbag and traction control lights stay on. Vehicle health report can be run, tell you to go to dealer immediately. Can scan codes. Always different codes, sometimes multiple some times single: P1934, P2610, U0121, U0284, PP26DE (all codes seen since early August)

5. Turn it off and back on all is cleared. Runs fine and does not do it again even after sitting at work for 6-10 hours

Might be time to put it back to stock and hello carmax