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Discussion Starter #41
I found a way to access them. How do you know what position the valve is in? Or do you just go until it looks to be closed.
You go buy look. A 2nd person is handy for this. I had a buddy turn the crank till I saw the valves close and then he gave it an addl 1/4 turn To make sure. You have some time between open/close, so no worries. Just don't try doing more than 1 port at a time and you'll be fine.

I don't see this being a huge issue until your car gets some mileage on it. I has 70k or so, mostly highway. If you do a lot of city driving, maybe around 50k. I fire its something I'll do 4 times throughout my ownership, based on 200k miles. I keep my cars for a while, lol.

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I used this from harbor freight. Along with the walnut media they sell. Works wonders! Just make sure to cover the rest of the engine as walnut will go everywhere.



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You guys think this process that was outlined for walnut blasting would pretty much apply for most vehicles, and not just the Focus ST?
 

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You guys think this process that was outlined for walnut blasting would pretty much apply for most vehicles, and not just the Focus ST?
oh course... all vehicles that have valves that need cleaning ;)

the process isn't specific at all any engine.
 

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Hey guys I see this an older thread. But would you look at these valves. Only44k miles on them. Should I walnut blast them? Sorry for the fuzzy video. Just a cheaper bore scope camera from Menards.




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Hey guys I see this an older thread. But would you look at these valves. Only44k miles on them. Should I walnut blast them? Sorry for the fuzzy video. Just a cheaper bore scope camera from Menards.




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Where you located?

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Indiana


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Sorry, can't help.. in Los Angeles and have a guy that does blasting for less than $300

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I think you should, yes.
God, if yours look like this at 44k already, I fear that mine might look the same. A bit less maybe, since I'm at 31k, but still...
 
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There are numerous threads about the valve coking we get on our GDI motors and there are two ways to really tackle this job. You can either buy chemicals and (bong)brushes - which could be cheaper for you - or walnut blasting. I chose to walnut blast because I wanted to just do the job and be done with it, vs. soaking with chemicals, scrubbing, sucking out fluids, stuffing rags down in the ports, etc. (also, I just wanted a media blaster) But to each their own.

Before I get into it, I want to apologize for not taking more pics. I was really more focused (pun intended) on the task at hand. But I do have some info that should prove handy for those that are planning on tackling this job. There are also a number of other threads for other cars, explaining the process.

Here were my valves...72k miles, no catch cans, no wmi and they had never been cleaned before. They looked like this:





and when I was done, they looked like this:



NOTE This is not a hard job for someone with basic wrench experience, but you want to pay attention to what you are doing and be methodical because there is potential to screw up royally.



TOOLS:

You will need an assortment of basic hand tools and supplies:
  • 8mm socket/wrench (removing intake tube, coils, symposer, etc)
  • 10mm socket/wrench (removing intake manifold, etc)
  • Flathead Screwdrivers - stubby & a fairly long one helps too (removing clamps, poking at crud on valve, scratching your butt)
  • 5/8" Spark Plug Socket
  • Extensions for socket wrench (to reach intake manifold bolts & spark plugs)
  • 21mm socket or wrench (for crank bolt)
  • Torque Wrench (not mandatory, but not a bad idea)
  • 19mm socket or some way to remove your tire
  • Floor Jack
  • Flashlight
  • Blue Tape
  • Rags
  • Old bed sheet(s) << not necessary, but recommended
Beyond the basics:
  • Air compressor: I used 8gal/2HP and it worked fine, but I wouldnt go much smaller.
  • Blaster Kit: Link to Product
  • 25lbs Fine Grit Walnut: Link to Product
  • Shop Vac
  • Brass Pipe Nipple - 1/8” MIP x 4” long | BN-721NL (Lowes plumbing section | pictured below)
  • Brass Hose Barb - 1/2” ID x 1/2” FIP | BHB-390NL (Lowes plumbing section | pictured below)
  • Brass Pipe Bushing - 1/2” MIP x 1/8” MIP | BF-826NL (Lowes plumbing section | pictured below)
  • 90* piece of radiator/heater hose that will fit over the end of the vacuum hose
Ok, let's get down to biz....


First things first. Make sure you are parked somewhere you dont mind cleaning later. No matter how hard you try, walnut gets around. I had it stuck behind my ears, in my hair, etc...lol.

  1. Chock the tires: rear pass, rear driver, driver front.


  2. Leave the car in neutral and pull the e-brake.


  3. Jack up front passenger wheel and remove it.


  4. Now you want to remove the intake tube, coils and plugs. If you need to see this done, check out the tute from @skizzo81 How to Change Spark Plugs


  5. Remove the intake manifold: How-To Remove Intake Manifold


  6. Now, take precaution. Stuff rags in intake openings, put tape over your spark plug holes, etc. Plug it all up good and then drape everything with some old sheets. You should be left with something like this:






  7. Now let's get that blaster gun modified. You want to have some sort of a "wand" to be able to reach down in the part a little. This is where the brass fittings come into play. Check the images. I laid out the parts as it is to be assembled. You just take the provided allen wrench and remove the tip from the gun. Then assemble the bras pieces as shown, shove it into the gun all the way, and put tighten the allen screw back in...it works great!






  8. Grab your piece of heater/radiator hose and cut it down. You want it to be a good fit over the end of your vacuum. Some people poke a hold in the back to put the wand through, I just went in from the side. You'll figure out what works for you.


    slap this baby on the tip of your hose (just the tip)


  9. Fire up your compressor, hook up the blaster and get everything together. You're ready to roll!


  10. Pick a pair of ports and tape off the rest. (I worked from left to right)


  11. Now to turn the engine over. This is why we took the plugs out and the wheel off. Look in the side of your passenger wheel well and put a 21mm socket on the crank. You will want someone to turn this for you while you watch the valves open, then close. Once they are closed, have that special someone give the crank another half a turn to be sure.

    ONLY TURN THE CRANK IN A CLOCKWISE DIRECTION.




  12. With your valves closed and everything else covered up, you're ready to get in there and blast away. Use short burst of about 10sec and move the wand around a bit to hit it at every angle (like a porn star). Do this for a bit, then blast it out with some air to see your progress. For really heavy globs, you can break them up easily with a screw driver and then just blast everything else out. It will take a few till you get your process down, but it will go pretty quickly.




  13. When you are satisfied with those two valves, blast them out really good with some air and move to the next set. Turn the crank and watch them open then close. Make sure everything is blocked off and blast away. Rinse and repeat.


  14. When all is said and done, tape off all the ports and CAREFULLY gather up your blankets and vacuum up the engine bay.


  15. Put it all back together - use the above tutorials for torque specs and manifold torque pattern.


  16. Once it's all back together, air blast the engine to get the remaining walnut bits cleared away.
That's it! The main thing here is to make sure you are careful not to get walnut shell in your engine. Dont sweat the powdery dusting that remains after you airblast the ports clean...it won't harm a thing. Just make sure you clear them out good with air before moving along to the next set.

Finally, while it isn't completely necessary, you might want to go the extra mile and get an air/water separator for the compressor. They are cheap and you just run them inline. This will prevent any moisture from causing a clumping/clogging.

Now enjoy your clean valves! Go out and get them dirty again, lol.


Hope this helps.
I just hit 65k miles and I am preparing to go buy tools and what not for this preventative maintenance before Chicago winter hits. The link doesn't doesn't work on "How-To Remove Intake Manifold" and this is the only thread or source I've seen that says anything about torque specifications. On how to videos in YT, none of the 4 videos I watched talked about torque specs at all. Can anyone direct me to the torque specs and the proper way to assemble your intake manifold?

Please and thank you!
 

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I just hit 65k miles and I am preparing to go buy tools and what not for this preventative maintenance before Chicago winter hits. The link doesn't doesn't work on "How-To Remove Intake Manifold" and this is the only thread or source I've seen that says anything about torque specifications. On how to videos in YT, none of the 4 videos I watched talked about torque specs at all. Can anyone direct me to the torque specs and the proper way to assemble your intake manifold?

Please and thank you!

They are 20NM

and here, you will want this.


Heres the shop manual, you use an internet browser to comb through it via it's index. The whole procedure is in there. Plus everything else you could want, except for some facelift changes, which are not much.
 
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They are 20NM

and here, you will want this.


Heres the shop manual, you use an internet browser to comb through it via it's index. The whole procedure is in there. Plus everything else you could want, except for some facelift changes, which are not much.
Wow thanks for the link the workshop manual. As a tech i can really appreciate this. Starting to get my kit together. Gonna clean the valves soon. Just need the walnut


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Wow thanks for the link the workshop manual. As a tech i can really appreciate this. Starting to get my kit together. Gonna clean the valves soon. Just need the walnut

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Nice, I have that same 3D printed adapter from eBay. And that looks like the gun from the Harbor Freight blaster kit? What are the brass fittings you have on the end? That was my problem when I was going to do this job, I couldn't get a long skinny attachment on the end of the gun.
 

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Nice, I have that same 3D printed adapter from eBay. And that looks like the gun from the Harbor Freight blaster kit? What are the brass fittings you have on the end? That was my problem when I was going to do this job, I couldn't get a long skinny attachment on the end of the gun.
Look at the first post in this thread. It shows all parts needed. Now i checked lowes and the part number did not work at my local lowes. So just went of the pictures and went to home depot and got the parts. As you can see it fits neatly. Here are the home depot part numbers and they should be good. Im also picky and got a cap lol


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They are 20NM

and here, you will want this.


Heres the shop manual, you use an internet browser to comb through it via it's index. The whole procedure is in there. Plus everything else you could want, except for some facelift changes, which are not much.
BTW I never got to do the walnut blasting before winter. I ended up not having the time that I needed. I will document what my valves look like when I do them. I am considering just buying a Mountune Intake Manifold and just replace that plastic piece we have (Any thoughts on that or advice?). Also that shop manual doesn’t work and when I go to my google drive and click on it, it says unsupported file type. Maybe I should look it up on my laptop instead of my phone?

Thank you for the reply.
 
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