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Discussion Starter #21
Questions, looking at your photos:

1. What brand of fuel do you use?

2. What RPM do you normally drive at?

3. What type of oil do you use, Mineral Base (Regular Oil), Semi-Synthetic, or Full Synthetic?

3. Do you do a lot of local short trips or long ones at highway speeds?
1. Usually Shell - 91oct is all we get up here in CO

2. I hover around 2500 - 3k when just steady cruising, but I don't granny shift. I'll wind it out a bit and he car gets romped at least once or twice daily. Doging these engines is no Bueno.

3. Full Synthetic and it gets changed every 5k. Motorcraft filter and if not available I'll use Wixx

4. I bought the car with 50k on it. I put 25k of mostly highway. Our speed limits are 75mph on the interstate and the early AM crowd cruised 85mph.

I agree with a lot of what you've said and have heard it in my readings as well. Basically, get it to running temp and don't be a wuss when you drive it. Shift over 3k and romp it once in a while. Probably goes a long way. Earning leaves for eco is not what this car is about.



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OK, logically, the type and grade of fuel used might have effects elsewhere but I can't see where it would have any effect with respect to this issue. The fuel never touches the back of the valves. Just my two cents worth of opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
OK, logically, the type and grade of fuel used might have effects elsewhere but I can't see where it would have any effect with respect to this issue. The fuel never touches the back of the valves. Just my two cents worth of opinion.
Perhaps cleaner combustion?

Regardless of what one does, you'll likely be doing this job at some point.

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OK, logically, the type and grade of fuel used might have effects elsewhere but I can't see where it would have any effect with respect to this issue. The fuel never touches the back of the valves. Just my two cents worth of opinion.
it doesn't make a difference...

I am with you. I run 92 Shell or Chevron. but because of tune not because I think my valves are clean or cleaner or being cleaned... because they aren't.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I appreciate the debate on this topic, but let's try to take this to another thread. There is plenty of info and discussion about why and prevention on this board and I'd like to keep this thread clear for Q&A and other things related to cleaning the valves.

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Discussion Starter #27
My question would be what would the suggested interval be on something like this? 25k? 50k?
I would say it depends on your driving habits, commute, etc. But a reasonable range would be 50-75k. My car had almost 75k and a lot of highway miles. Note that I experienced no symptoms of any sort that drove me to do this. It was just maintenance that I felt was due.

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I would say it depends on your driving habits, commute, etc. But a reasonable range would be 50-75k. My car had almost 75k and a lot of highway miles. Note that I experienced no symptoms of any sort that drove me to do this. It was just maintenance that I felt was due.

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I also highly suggest either getting your injectors cleaned at around 60k+ or just flat out replacing them. A partial failure on one of those bad boys will create hotspots and warp a chamber.
 

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over 60k and have not had issues with either of these. I checked my valves at 55k on my last oil change and I would see it as a waste of blast them.

I have a long drive to and from work daily. I think that helps keep them clean. I also drive it like it should be driven ;)

My logs show a healthy engine. I rarely have misfires and only on start up when cold out. and I rarely ever get timing even when going flat out.
 

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I also highly suggest either getting your injectors cleaned at around 60k+ or just flat out replacing them. A partial failure on one of those bad boys will create hotspots and warp a chamber.
Running e30 will not help your injectors life
 

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Running e30 will not help your injectors life
I never said it would, in fact ethanol is more likely to gunk them up. Also, i'm not suggesting your injectors are going to fail at 60k on the dot or even 160k, but usually there's no warning. I'd rather be sure and keep components extra clean than a little too dirty. Small price to pay IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I know there is a multiple page thread debating and discussing this. Lease out this convo there... And post a how to on swapping them, lol

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I've bought all the stuff, going to give this a shot possibly this weekend. I drive the crap out of my car so I'll use the borescope to decide on if I will do it this weekend, I always use 93 shell/bp gas. No catch can. 60000 miles. I think this will be easier than trying to scrap off stuff
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I've bought all the stuff, going to give this a shot possibly this weekend. I drive the crap out of my car so I'll use the borescope to decide on if I will do it this weekend, I always use 93 shell/bp gas. No catch can. 60000 miles. I think this will be easier than trying to scrap off stuff
I had a few small spots where I used a screwdriver to poke off a stubborn piece, but overall this makes the process much easier. Have fun!

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Quick question, why remove intake box, pipe and plugs? Looks like you can access removing manifold without touching the intake, and plugs....they are in the cylinder whats the point in removing them?
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Quick question, why remove intake box, pipe and plugs? Looks like you can access removing manifold without touching the intake, and plugs....they are in the cylinder whats the point in removing them?
Intake pipe gets removed so you can pull the plugs. You will need to remove the spark plugs so you can easily turn the engine over by hand and not have to fight with cylinder compression.

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Intake pipe gets removed so you can pull the plugs. You will need to remove the spark plugs so you can easily turn the engine over by hand and not have to fight with cylinder compression.

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Ah yes forgot about fighting compression, luckily I can wiggle the right plug out by just loosening the intake pipe and pushing back. Putting the clamp on the turbo for the intake pipe sucked big time, glad I won't have to do that.
 

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I found a way to access them. How do you know what position the valve is in? Or do you just go until it looks to be closed. I'm going to be walnut blasting relatively soon. My car seems to have very high fuel trims and I can't find a vacuum leak so I'm cleaning everything and reassembling. Thinking my brand new, 12K mile turbo, got over heated and toasted the bearing. The shaft now moves 3-4mm in and out. So I'm wanting to fix the underlying issue to go big turbo.
 
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