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I figured I would try VDyno out, and I used the SCT software to log. My mods are in my sig. Thoughts?

 
The log looks a little wavy - was the road very straight and you had no traction loss or wind?
No traction loss and the road was pretty darn straight. I may have felt some sway. And this was a 4th gear pull.

Should I have turned the ESC off?
 
First off I'm a complete noob when it comes to ECU tuning. I had no idea what could be done just by flashing a different tune on a car. Picked up an AP3 and finally installed it and a new tune and want to learn more about this great tool. I've read through all the data logging threads and know more than I did but still have much to learn.

It might be nice to have a data logging 101 thread for beginners. This thread shows me how to take a log but not how to read it. Alex listed 15 things to monitor and a great description of what they are. Some are obvious but some like ETC Actual Angle I have no idea what is a good number. Another would be what to look for when looking at a map.


Anyways I have a couple of questions. Should I do a KAM reset? If I understand this correctly it will eventually adjust to the new tune, resetting the KAM just makes it happen quicker.

Normal or Sport mode make any difference?

For those of you that keep the AP on I'm curious what gauges you normally monitor and why.

Here's my first try. Probably 60 miles running the new tune. 37* mods are ic, cai and a catted dp. Started at 2500rpm 4th gear. Dry road but my skinny snow tires that are so good in the snow don't do nearly as well on dry pavement. Only got to 6000rpm before I had to slow down. Still need to find a good road to do this. Next time I'll try 3rd gear.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4gJJzGHprPGbzNTMGlfdXFlaEU/edit?usp=sharing
 
Discussion starter · #247 ·
First off I'm a complete noob when it comes to ECU tuning. I had no idea what could be done just by flashing a different tune on a car. Picked up an AP3 and finally installed it and a new tune and want to learn more about this great tool. I've read through all the data logging threads and know more than I did but still have much to learn.

It might be nice to have a data logging 101 thread for beginners. This thread shows me how to take a log but not how to read it. Alex listed 15 things to monitor and a great description of what they are. Some are obvious but some like ETC Actual Angle I have no idea what is a good number. Another would be what to look for when looking at a map.

Normal or Sport mode make any difference?

Anyways I have a couple of questions. Should I do a KAM reset? If I understand this correctly it will eventually adjust to the new tune, resetting the KAM just makes it happen quicker.

For those of you that keep the AP on I'm curious what gauges you normally monitor and why.

Here's my first try. Probably 60 miles running the new tune. 37* mods are ic, cai and a catted dp. Started at 2500rpm 4th gear. Dry road but my skinny snow tires that are so good in the snow don't do nearly as well on dry pavement. Only got to 6000rpm before I had to slow down. Still need to find a good road to do this. Next time I'll try 3rd gear.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4gJJzGHprPGbzNTMGlfdXFlaEU/edit?usp=sharing
You definitely have some throttle closures in the log - likely due to loss of traction?

The corrections on Cyl1 indicate that you in this weather and on this fuel ... and on that cylinder you're in the correct timing ballpark. I strongly suggest logging all cylinder. For our car, cylinder 3 is the one that is most knock prone.
A KAM reset gives the ECU the chance to relearn the OAR parameter which matches the octane of fuel you are running to the map you are running. When tuning I don't clear this but I am aware of it and the compensations it adds. It's good to keep an eye on the OAR since it's a good indication of how well suited the map is to your fuel. A value of -1 indicates that it is adding timing to the base tables - in other words you're on higher octane than what the case tables call for and a 1 means the opposite. The OAR will vary from 1 to -1. Resetting it sets it to 0.

Sport mode changes the stability control program, not engine mapping.
 
You definitely have some throttle closures in the log - likely due to loss of traction?

The corrections on Cyl1 indicate that you in this weather and on this fuel ... and on that cylinder you're in the correct timing ballpark. I strongly suggest logging all cylinder. For our car, cylinder 3 is the one that is most knock prone.
A KAM reset gives the ECU the chance to relearn the OAR parameter which matches the octane of fuel you are running to the map you are running. When tuning I don't clear this but I am aware of it and the compensations it adds. It's good to keep an eye on the OAR since it's a good indication of how well suited the map is to your fuel. A value of -1 indicates that it is adding timing to the base tables - in other words you're on higher octane than what the case tables call for and a 1 means the opposite. The OAR will vary from 1 to -1. Resetting it sets it to 0.

Sport mode changes the stability control program, not engine mapping.
Alex, Yes the traction control came on a few times, that's why I was wondering if turning the traction control off would make a difference. If I log all cylinders you mean Ign Corr? Is there a limit to how many items you can log? Should I remove anything if I'm adding 3 to the list (I did remove the Grill Shutter Cmd). The OAR has stayed at 0 since I've been monitoring it. Thanks again for your help.
 
Alex, Yes the traction control came on a few times, that's why I was wondering if turning the traction control off would make a difference. If I log all cylinders you mean Ign Corr? Is there a limit to how many items you can log? Should I remove anything if I'm adding 3 to the list (I did remove the Grill Shutter Cmd). The OAR has stayed at 0 since I've been monitoring it. Thanks again for your help.

Concerning OAR: http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-performance/17600-oar-adjustement.html
 
Run one was 55* and run two was 62*.


After looking at them it looks like I did not wait long enough for the log to start before going WOT.
I do that all the time. Better to cut the log down later

Roll me over if you can read this
 
Discussion starter · #258 · (Edited)
hey, is your recomended parameters to log up to date? Are OTS parameters sufficient for tuning?
Here's what I've been using lately:

- Accel Pedal Position
- Actual AFR
- Boost Pressure
- Charge Air Temp.
- Coolant Temp.
- ETC Angle Actual
- Engine RPM
- FRP Actual
- Ign Corr. Cyl1
- Ign Corr. Cyl2
- Ign Corr. Cyl3
- Ign Corr. Cyl4
- Ign Timing Cyl3
- LTFT
- Load Actual
- Oct Adj Ratio Lrn
- STFT
- WGDC Actual

I updated the OP to include this more advanced list.
 
I recently purchased an OBD-II reader to get some data logs of the FRPP tune to see what it is doing. I'm trying to use an app called DashCommand but I don't see a pre-defined PID for OARL. Does anyone know what the actual PID is for OARL?


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