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How to make a blank button a real button (plenty of pics and a video!)

62K views 54 replies 29 participants last post by  Pk2519  
#1 ·
In my quest for installing a switch inside the cabin as seamless or stealthy as possible, I came across the obvious first choice: the blank, non-pushable button/cap next to the ESC OFF button ('14 ST3). The first road block was, well, you can't push the darn thing so is it even a button? Previous posts on here suggest that it is indeed a part of a "module" of some sort paired with the ESC OFF switch and on other models of Foci it functions as a park assist switch. No problem. Warning: there is a bit of sanding/dremeling and soldering/wire splicing involved and wiring things up to the car's battery. Be careful. I am not responsible for you blowing up you car, injuring yourself or anyone else. Anyway, start ripping out the instrument panel...

Remove the plastic trim around the shifter then the trim to the left of that to expose the screw holding the left side of the lower panel. Under the volume knob there might be a bit of plastic to remove that covers the two screws holding the upper panel in place. I was lucky enough not to have this inconvenient cover installed when I purchased this car new... If you have it, pull it out, remove the screws and pull the panel out enough to reach in and unclip the two wiring harnesses attached to the back.



With that top part out of the way, remove the two screws holding the top of the lower panel. Don't forget the screw on the left circled in the first picture!! Once all THREE screws are out, give it a yank then unplug the four wiring harnesses plugged into the back.


With the lower panel free, locate the button cluster you want to modify, push in the two tabs on either side and push the button module through the front of the panel to remove it.

Now that you have the switch free, break out a skinny file or a dremel with a small reamer bit and file down the three stoppers molded into the button. They're super small but super effective so take your time and try not to mangle the switch beyond repair. The stops can be found here:


here:


and here:


At this point you should be repeatedly pushing the previously unpushable button jumping up and down giggling like a little kid (I was at least). But it's not over yet! Conveniently, Ford decided to put exactly as many wires into the wiring harness as there are pins on the functional side of this switch but the rest of the circuit board is intact and just waiting to be pinned! Pop that sucker out of the plastic housing. Again I can't stress this enough, please be careful with this plastic stuff. A very skinny flathead or a small knife should get the back removed from the button module/cluster and allowing you access to the circuit board (I didn't get pictures of this part, I'll have to get some later when I do my final install). I added a small length of solid copper hookup wire to each of the three open holes in the board but later on found the only one necessary for this button to function as a momentary switch is pin #10. So if that is what you're after, solder a pin to that spot and close the switch back up and it should look like this:


Now you have a button that is pressable, and if you wire something up to pin's 10 & 12, you have a functioning momentary switch. In my case, I'm still in the process of installing an LED light bar and this will be my on/off button. Here's proof of it working:


I'm using this: https://www.pololu.com/product/2812 to make the momentary switch function as a latching on/off switch for activating a relay. That's all I've got for now. Good luck!
 
#42 ·
I forgot to update my findings but I got it working! I had to mod the crap out of the switch to make it work though. I had to use an Arduino and an external push button glued to the inside of the switch to force an “uncommon ground” and act as the switch to turn on the circuit which in turn sent power to a beefy relay. Sounds complicate I know but it’s not. Maybe there is a better way but its how I did it with the hours of trouble shooting as to why it didn’t want to work as a standalone.

The original switch that the OP used is great for any application where the circuit is separated and not sharing a common ground. I had to add a mini momentary switch inside switch I hot glued and ran the wires through the back connecting to this circuit that Polou provides. https://www.pololu.com/product/2814
The reason I used this is method because every time the old circuit saw power from the a/c or any form of a surge would cause the switch to turn on…that’s not ok when you’re driving and your led bar or other application comes on blinding people and/or causing unwanted issues . This circuit relies on MOSFET which are so much better in many ways and helps with the many drawbacks the old circuit had.

I'm in no way an engineer lol I just love to tinker/hack and take things apart. Like I said there is most likely a better way but I used with what I had on hand. The cool thing about the way I wired it up is future upgrade I can add up to 5+ different functions to the switch by adding a delay counter to the code on the arduino in which each second of a delay is for a different function from my train horn to lights and so on.

Links to picks of some photos of the process :

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9uByoc5s4wgcmVkWUJvYllha1E/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9uByoc5s4wgWlJiWFRqWlRvbVE/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9uByoc5s4wgLXRwUXRkT2tNbGc/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9uByoc5s4wgdzYzcVI3VXJSUEE/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9uByoc5s4wgN1lLMklab3hESG8/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9uByoc5s4wgV0QtQkhtNFRHdUk/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9uByoc5s4wgXzV2U2Y3emZuRG8/view?usp=sharing
 
#44 · (Edited)
The arduino is acting as a switch for the pololu sending a digital signal to turn on and off as well as adding the ability to multi function the button and separate the common ground if that makes sense lol. Its a switch inside a switch turning on another switch all to make the button work xD.

I hope in the future we find a better way because mine is more involved unless you don't care about turning traction control off. The circuit I use still turns itself on but only once out of every 20+ or so times I start the car. Its very random and rare. Still don't know why and what is causing the surge to where the circuit thinks I'm pressing the button. Maybe a capacitor to even out the noise from the power?
 
#47 ·
Sorry for not posting about this but I got the button working.
I had to do a very hack job but it works. Outside appearance is stock but inside not so much. I basically had to glue in a mini push switch inside the stock switch so when you pressed the button it pressed the mini switch that is glued in there. I ran some super small gauge wire through the small holes in the backside of the switch to the Arduino inputs. On the programming side, I added a counter to check how long you're pressing the button. It was a lot of playing around to get it to work but I found a happy medium of a fast push/deliberate push. Didn't want to tap the button for it to turn on but a real deliberate press of the button will cause a led inside the switch which I glued in place to light up causing a relay to turn on via the Arduino. Sounds complex but it isn't.

Using the counter on the programming side allows me to use the switch for many applications from led lights to more train horns, etc. Possibilities are endless. You just have to set a value of how long to push the button for an action to happen. Pretty cool huh. Still, I wish there was a different way but its what I found that works best. I had too many common ground issues with the switch causing my train horn to go off when I started the car or even turned on the a/c wasn't fun if I wasn't expecting it or other outside my car. (Novel over lol) if I can find the pics I will post them or make a video for you guys.
 
#49 ·
I have an idea to add the 4 button switch from the c-max. I think it will fit but I'm gonna order it this weekend and see what I can do to make it work. I currently don't have a switch in that spot. This is the switch I'm talking about View attachment 181881
I've been thinking about getting the button from an RS for the mode/steering wheel heater and using the unused button to activate my light bar


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#52 ·
Yeah, pretty sure someone already did something like that. I'd have to look around for the thread.
 
#53 ·
#55 ·
I'm curious as to how the narrower right side button could be used as a lock/unlock button. Anyone have a wiring diagram for this button? Would it be safe enough to just temporarily bridge FCIM pin 6 with various pins for this button until the car locks? Or would I risk sending 12v down a data line or vice versa?