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OCYSP

You mention to torque the LSD ring gear bolts to 61 lb ft. Where did you get this value from? The Ford Performance Quaife Intall kit calls for stage 1 tighening of 37 lb ft, and then stage 2 of 90 degrees. I have my trans apart and installing my Mfactory LSD now. The helms manual I have indicates for an MTX 75 torque to be 83 Nm which is approximately 61 lb ft, however there isn't an MMT6 Torque value that I see currently.

Page 7 has ford racing torque specs for a quaife diff install

https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-4026-FST.pdf

The other thing I noticed is trans case bolts torque were mentioned in the video to be 30 lb ft. In the link above the ford performance lists the trans case bolts to be torqued to 32 Nm which is approximately 24 lb ft.
 

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OCYSP

You mention to torque the LSD ring gear bolts to 61 lb ft. Where did you get this value from? The Ford Performance Quaife Intall kit calls for stage 1 tighening of 37 lb ft, and then stage 2 of 90 degrees. I have my trans apart and installing my Mfactory LSD now. The helms manual I have indicates for an MTX 75 torque to be 83 Nm which is approximately 61 lb ft, however there isn't an MMT6 Torque value that I see currently.

Page 7 has ford racing torque specs for a quaife diff install

https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-4026-FST.pdf

The other thing I noticed is trans case bolts torque were mentioned in the video to be 30 lb ft. In the link above the ford performance lists the trans case bolts to be torqued to 32 Nm which is approximately 24 lb ft.
I went with the quaife install specs when I installed my Mfactory. I used a combination of torque values from here, and other supplements from ford.
 

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@Ocysp

Can you tell me if you are able to support the engine from underneath, or is there a reason you MUST do it overhead?

Also, what size is the plug for the transmission drain/fill? I'm 99% that minus shims, I have everything I need to get this project underway.
 

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@Ocysp

Can you tell me if you are able to support the engine from underneath, or is there a reason you MUST do it overhead?

Also, what size is the plug for the transmission drain/fill? I'm 99% that minus shims, I have everything I need to get this project underway.
He supported it from overhead, because that is the proper way to support it.

Supporting it from underneath relies on using the oil pan to support the engine, which is frowned upon. Also it makes the install easier as you do not have a support means in your way as you are working underneath the car trying to line everything up.

I support mine from underneath, I have had my trans out several times now, and it is a bit annoying, but it works.

The trans plug is like a 8 or 10 mm internal hex, so a allen key, or a ratchet driven allen key is needed. I use a bunch of extensions and get it from the wheel well with a ball end, after I crack it loose with a standard. I suggest getting your install method down before refilling the trans, Just so you are not fumbling around with a plug while fluids are leaking out or whatnot.
 

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Just wondering what size shims everyone ended up using? Just wondering if there's a common range that it falls into before I order a bunch of shims


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Just wondering what size shims everyone ended up using? Just wondering if there's a common range that it falls into before I order a bunch of shims


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I don't remember, but you are better off just forking out the cash, unless you can accept a week or two downtime while you wait on parts after you measure
 

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Discussion Starter #89 (Edited)
Edited original post to add:

@Stasiu used a 36mm kobalt socket to successfully hammer the bearing onto the LSD:[/B]

Excellent idea @Stasiu!
If you go the socket route as above, you will probably still want to pick up a small piece of scrap aluminum to act as a soft punch tool to insert the races.
 

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Hey @Ocysp,

I just ordered shims from Levittown Ford; however, they are saying that the 1.5mm was discontinued. Would really appreciate your advice on what to do.

I'm preparing my mFactory lsd install and want to know if this shim is crucial.

Best,
John

Screenshot_20170315-133101.png

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Hey @Ocysp,

I just ordered shims from Levittown Ford; however, they are saying that the 1.5mm was discontinued. Would really appreciate your advice on what to do.

I'm preparing my mFactory lsd install and want to know if this shim is crucial.

Best,
John

View attachment 217857

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Well, if you have the other shims you can roll the dice, you only need one of the shims, so you may not need that one.

Or you can go a shim higher or lower if thats the sweet spot. Id go lower than higher, looser than tighter.
 

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Thanks for the quick response! I bought all the other shims, but i thought Ocysp was saying to go higher than lower for tightness?

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Thanks for the quick response! I bought all the other shims, but i thought Ocysp was saying to go higher than lower for tightness?

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Oh, it's been awhile since I did mine, just do whatever he says, lmao
 

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I just dealt with this on my own install. I used the 1.6 shim to measure preload, but found I didnt have enough room to fit a feeler gauge in there after the case was torqued down. I repeated this process about 3 times trying to find a way to get an accurate measurement, and finally realized I could measure about .1mm of gap if I tapped the races again AFTER I torqued the case together using a 1.6mm shim. Is the 1.44 shim on back order too? If not, Id get that one. I ended up using a 1.9 shim (1.6 measuring shim + .1mm measured gap + .2mm preload). The original diff had a 1.8mm shim.

The next step i was going to take was to hand sand the 1.6mm shim in a figure 8 fashion between 2 blocks to 1.5mm, luckily that wasnt necessary.

And just like was mentioned in the install vid, if you are between shims, use the thicker one (more preload)

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What are everyone's thoughts on torching the differential bearings so they slide on vs. pressing them down? I've seen it down both ways, but the torch seems like it's a heck of a lot easier than pressing.

Additionally, is it just me or is ocysp using the bearing/race driver upside-down in the video?
 

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What are everyone's thoughts on torching the differential bearings so they slide on vs. pressing them down? I've seen it down both ways, but the torch seems like it's a heck of a lot easier than pressing.

Additionally, is it just me or is ocysp using the bearing/race driver upside-down in the video?
I installed the MFactory unit, and I tapped the bearings on. I didn't have to "beat" them on. Just tapped them on until it seated. The race is also plastic I believe so I wouldn't torch it.
 

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What are everyone's thoughts on torching the differential bearings so they slide on vs. pressing them down? I've seen it down both ways, but the torch seems like it's a heck of a lot easier than pressing.

Additionally, is it just me or is ocysp using the bearing/race driver upside-down in the video?
Throw the diff in the freezer or if it's cold where you live leave it outside for the night in a bag. With the diff cold and the bearing at room temperature or heated lightly with a blow dryer it will slide right on. I own all the Ford Rotunda tools for differential install, maybe I'll dig them out of storage and make them available for those that need to do installs in the future
 

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Hey,

Where did you get that flywheel holding tool from? I have searched all over the internet and can only find non-Ford vehicle-specific ones. Your help would be greatly appreciated!

Best,
John
 
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