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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm about to flush out the factory brake fluid and replace it with a hi temp brake fluid, and I understand the clutch uses the same hydraulics as the brakes? So where do I bleed off this line, and is there a certain procedure to follow to ensure the clutch line gets the new fluid as well.

I want to make sure I get the old (lower temp fluid) out of the clutch section of the hydraulic system to make sure it doesn't somehow mix with the new fluid , and therefore lower the rating of the new fluid.
 

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Make sure when you are bleeding the fluid level doesn't get below the clutch line level. There are two levels in the reservoir. One for the brakes and one for the clutch. If you get air in the slave cylinder it's a ***** to bleed. As your flushing check the level constantly.
 

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Also when you loosen the plug don't take it too far out. Be careful when tightening it as it's cheap plastic. Make sure you put a hose on it and a bottle with a little fluid so it doesn't suck air. It's not hard just tedious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Would it be best to use a Motive Brake Bleeder that attaches to the master cylinder to pressurize the system and ensure I don't drop to low in the fluid level during the process?

Thanks for your help!!
 

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Would it be best to use a Motive Brake Bleeder that attaches to the master cylinder to pressurize the system and ensure I don't drop to low in the fluid level during the process?

Thanks for your help!!
Yes!

That's what I did...

All the best,
Mark
 

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Also when you loosen the plug don't take it too far out. Be careful when tightening it as it's cheap plastic. Make sure you put a hose on it and a bottle with a little fluid so it doesn't suck air. It's not hard just tedious.
From my experience this damn bleeder didn't let anything out until I opened it ~1.5-2 full turns. Even then the flow rate was quite low.
I did try to use Motive bleeder, but didn't like it. For me MityVac was an easier and less messy way to do the job. With MityVac the critical thing to pay attention to is the level of fluid in the reservoir. Have to keep it pretty much full to the brim throughout the processes. There's a separator in the reservoir and it's easy to run the clutch section dry without noticing it.
 

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From my experience this damn bleeder didn't let anything out until I opened it ~1.5-2 full turns. Even then the flow rate was quite low.
I did try to use Motive bleeder, but didn't like it. For me MityVac was an easier and less messy way to do the job. With MityVac the critical thing to pay attention to is the level of fluid in the reservoir. Have to keep it pretty much full to the brim throughout the processes. There's a separator in the reservoir and it's easy to run the clutch section dry without noticing it.
Yeah motive bleeder didn't work well for me either. I bled my brakes first then went for the clutch using the old hose in the bottle method. Mine bled pretty good with a full turn but not much like you said.
 

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So I've been reading on clutch bleeding for a solid 45 min now and didn't really find anything definitive...If you bleed the clutch the old fashioned way with two people, is it just like doing the brakes? Crack the bleeder open, slowly push the clutch pedal to the floor, close the bleeder, then release the pedal??
 

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So I've been reading on clutch bleeding for a solid 45 min now and didn't really find anything definitive...If you bleed the clutch the old fashioned way with two people, is it just like doing the brakes? Crack the bleeder open, slowly push the clutch pedal to the floor, close the bleeder, then release the pedal??
The challenge is that the clutch bleed screw, once loosened, needs to be turned at least 1.5 full turns before it starts flowing fluid.

So the risk of reintroducing air/old fluid back in is increased over a brake bleed, where 1/3 turn is all you need to open and shut the bleed screw.

I just did a bleed on my car for the second time yesterday as part of brake job (the first was after the car was two years old), and the Motive pressure bleeder is really the way to go -- or a vacuum bleeder if you prefer. This is from someone who has done lots of cars using the old fashioned two-person method; power bleeding is just a lot easier.

Hope that helps,
Mark
 

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Lot s of good/great info, but not really confirming my question about the process if you have to do the old traditional method.
 

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It uses the European adaptor. I got mine from FSWerks.

Sent from another garage.
Hmmm. So maybe the VW adapter then …. Wasn't considering the Focus' European origins. Would be nice to not have to buy another adapter. Probably have to replace the hose since I haven't used the VW one in over 10 years now. I'm going to check it out this weekend. Thanks!
 

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So I've been reading on clutch bleeding for a solid 45 min now and didn't really find anything definitive...If you bleed the clutch the old fashioned way with two people, is it just like doing the brakes? Crack the bleeder open, slowly push the clutch pedal to the floor, close the bleeder, then release the pedal??
1. First press the clutch pedal in, once or twice, but on the final press you must hold it.
2. At this point you crack open the bleeder screw and let the fluid out.
3. Once you see no more flow from the screw, close it.
4. Then release the clutch pedal.
5. Now repeat Steps 1-4, until you have removed any air in the line or replaced the fluid with desired fluid.
 

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Lot s of good/great info, but not really confirming my question about the process if you have to do the old traditional method.
The process is standard if you wish to do it the old fashioned two-person way.

Just make sure you use a long bleed hose to avoid introducing air into the system; the bleed screw needs 1 1/2 - 2 full turns to start flowing. It's plastic too, so that's a lot of opening and closing to do to flush a pint or so of fluid through. If you break it, you get to drop the tranny to replace it... (FYI The master cylinder reservoir has a separate chamber for fluid destined for the clutch slave cylinder.)

So sure, you can do it the old fashioned way. But for ~$70 for a Motive bleeder and catch can from FSwerks (and some denatured alcohol to clean it afterwards) and just one open and close on the clutch slave cylinder, why would you want to do it the old fashioned way?

Hope that helps,
Mark
 

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1. First press the clutch pedal in, once or twice, but on the final press you must hold it.
2. At this point you crack open the bleeder screw and let the fluid out.
3. Once you see no more flow from the screw, close it.
4. Then release the clutch pedal.
5. Now repeat Steps 1-4, until you have removed any air in the line or replaced the fluid with desired fluid.
This is how I used to bleed my clutch but when bleeding this way, I could never get a firm pedal. There was a trick to getting a firmer pedal, I think it was you don't push the clutch in all the way, maybe 1/2 way down when you are opening the bleeder screw, but I really don't remember. It was also on a different car. I never bled the clutch on an ST.

It drove me nuts that I could not get a firm pedal so I bought a vacuum bleeder. It is similar to the Motive bleeder but works off an air compressor. I really recommend getting one. It makes bleeding hydraulic lines a one man job and worlds easier. You don't have to keep climbing into your car to pump the brakes. Just attach to brake line and 30 seconds later you're done.

You can also use it to clean out the fluid in the brake reservoir or any other fluid, coolant, oil, power steering fluid, etc., and you won't need to steal the wife's turkey baster anymore.
 
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