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Discussion Starter #1
Anything missing? I've never had a car half as new as my '16 Focus ST that I picked up today so I want to do all of the little stuff to make it enjoyable for the wife and I for the duration of ownership. Gonna order all of the parts this weekend and get her set up soon. Here is where I'm at...


Dark tint
Steeda Clutch Spring kit - was stoked to see this. Clutch feel is my least favorite thing about the car.
Cobb Rear motor mount - Is this the right one? Should work fine I think.
Redline hood strut kit - Did this mod to our Mustang recently and really like it.
Husky Liners front/rear - It snows here.
Hurst Short Throw Shifter - Should I do this or just the little kit that other companies make? And is the Steeda kit nicer?
Accellatec shift knob adapter (I think I need this even with the Hurst kit)
Solid red shift ball - I like round shift knobs.
Rally Armor mud flaps - The wife and I will probably put 150k miles or more on this car. Gonna try to minimize rock chips.
OEM Focus RS wheels with as of yet unknown summer tires. Stock wheels will get snow tires. Should I use spacers with these wheels?

I might do a tune later on, not sure. Still has 2 years of powertrain warranty and we have another car for acting like assholes in. Plus we are both 35 now and we don't drive our stuff like 15 years ago. Although I can still be spotted doing a buck fiddy with the top back from time to time.

Cheers,
Jon

P.S. Here is a pic. I love this color. It's just so damned red. (y) The new hasn't worn off for me. I bought it about 5-6 hours ago.
373632
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Oh! I want a turbo timer. Yall running them? My diesel truck I always let the EGT get down under 400 before I shut it off but of course in the FoST there is no EGT readout. I'd rather the wife not even have to think about it, just let it idle for 90 seconds or whatever after she gets out.

I just went for a midnight drive. This car is a hoot. Never had a FWD car put a smile on my face like this one. :p Can't wait to get the ~86 octane that the dealership put in burned out and replaced with some 91. I'm half tempted to dump a little Torco in the tank and see if it wakes up some more. o_O
 

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Cobb Rear motor mount - Is this the right one? Should work fine I think.
If I was you, I'd go with a Stage 2 RMM, like this one: JBR Stage 2 RMM
I just saw this one too late and mounted a "ordinary" Stage 1 RMM.

OEM Focus RS wheels with as of yet unknown summer tires. Stock wheels will get snow tires. Should I use spacers with these wheels?
For tires I'd recommend Michelin PS4S or the new Goodyear F1 Supersport.
Offset of the RS wheels is 50, so I'd add some 10 mm spacers to them.

For all other mods: Sure, go ahead!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, that is a damned fine looking part.

I think I'm going to be up a creek on those 10mm spacers. I'm guessing the factory studs aren't long enough and 10mm isn't deep enough to add studs on the spacer. Maybe I should get a different wheel. :cry: The RS wheels are cheap and sexy though. Thanks for the tire recommendations. I've ran some flavor of Nitto 555, 555R, 555R2 and 555G2 on my fun cars for the last 16 years but this is a different animal and I'm down to try something new.
 

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Well, that is a damned fine looking part.

I think I'm going to be up a creek on those 10mm spacers. I'm guessing the factory studs aren't long enough and 10mm isn't deep enough to add studs on the spacer. Maybe I should get a different wheel. :cry: The RS wheels are cheap and sexy though. Thanks for the tire recommendations. I've ran some flavor of Nitto 555, 555R, 555R2 and 555G2 on my fun cars for the last 16 years but this is a different animal and I'm down to try something new.
I currently run the NT555G2'S and recently drove a friend's ST with the same spring setup, but he's running the GY F1 Supersport... Tbh, they're superior. Quieter, more comfy, vastly better wet grip and dry grip is better too. Guess what I'll be buying next summer.

As for the spacers, you "should" be able to get some 15 mm spacers in there too, but you might need to trim the fender liner to avoid scrubbing. I just went for 10 mm, because I'm running a 40 offset, which is more or less the same as having 50 offset and 10 mm spacers. In winter, on the Snowflakes, I have 15 mm H&R spacers, which have their own studs.
 

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You have to get a much better front mount intercooler... for the life of the turbo, the car, your happiness with it... it is a must, even over the motor mount I think (because your car comes with a e-motor mount already, which is better than the 2013-14 RMM received initially...). The stock FMIC heat soaks really quickly, and the power and fun begins to drop with it...

I have the Steeda short shift kit, love it! But that is because I wanted a stock height shifter with shorter throws... If I had to do over, I would get the JBR kit for the linkage in the engine bay, and the Steeda for the shifter. If you want a shorter in height shifter, not just throws, check out the JBR and Boomba kits.

Congrats!! on the ST. It is a great daily work horse, fun, hauls a lot of crap... still puts a smile on my face daily after 6 years...
 

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I agree with Invincible - at some point you may wish you went with a two piece RMM rather than a one piece like the Cobb.

CP-E, Boomba also make two piece RMMs - along with the mentioned JBR.

Re: short throw shifters....Ford Racing makes a “lift and replace” short throw shifter. The RS shifter is also a direct bolt in that is surprisingly low cost.

Lots of folks shorten their throws by going with shift plates. They seem to be working fine for everyone....I was a bit concerned that altering the geometry would negatively effect longevity so I went with the Ford Racing shifter with an aftermarket shift arm.

While you’re down in there replacing the shifter, you should also consider replacing the shifter base bushings....it will reduce the shifter’s softness and make it more notchy and provide more certainty that you truly hit the intended gear.

You can also get replacement shift arms from Boomba and other similar companies if replacingvtge entire shifting unit usn’t the direction you want to go.

I suggest taking the time to research exactly what you guys will be the happiest with and guard against jumping in headfirst and later experiencing some buyer’s remorse.
 

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Oh! I want a turbo timer. Yall running them? My diesel truck I always let the EGT get down under 400 before I shut it off but of course in the FoST there is no EGT readout. I'd rather the wife not even have to think about it, just let it idle for 90 seconds or whatever after she gets out.

I just went for a midnight drive. This car is a hoot. Never had a FWD car put a smile on my face like this one. :p Can't wait to get the ~86 octane that the dealership put in burned out and replaced with some 91. I'm half tempted to dump a little Torco in the tank and see if it wakes up some more. o_O
Extremely surprised nobody has replied to this one yet, but turbo timer is 100% not needed at all. Any turbo car past like 2010 doesn't need one for that matter. These turbos are cooled by coolant long after you turn off the car. General recommendation is this - If you aren't Ken Block'in up your driveway at 23psi of boost smoking off your tires only to slam on the brakes and turn it off for the day...then okay maybe you should give it 45s-1min to cool off before you turn it off since it's probably extremely hot. If you go up your driveway like a normal human being, even after doing some intense and aggressive spirited driving, you're totally 100% fine to just turn it off and walk away immediately. You'll hear the coolant continuing to do it's thing for a minute or two afterwards which brings the temp down to a level it won't crack your turbo or cause damage.

Turbos are much, much different than they used to be.

Also, to respond to the initial mods - even if you don't plan on tuning the car or anything it's still a great idea to get an intercooler. Our stock one is the #1 worst part on the car. It's trash. Seriously wait until you replace it...you can with 2 fingers pick the stock one up and toss it. CPE 3.5" or if you're on a budget and catch them in stock, 3.5" Depo Racing intercooler will do you wonders.

Go out and do a 3rd to 4th gear pull then slow down and do it again right away. Feel how weak the car feels now. Guaranteed it'll fall on it's face. They dyno'd a stock ST years ago and it did 225whp (which is perfect for a stock ST) then they did it again right away and it dyno'd like 198whp. A third time was in the 180's I'm pretty sure. It's that bad, especially on a really hot day.

Edit: Oh yeah, one last thing...congrats man! :cool: I almost got a brand new 2016 Race Red with black stripes originally before finding my car with 15.3k miles on it.
 

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If you have any thought of motorsports, make sure your mods are compatible with the ruleset you'll be playing to.
 

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If you have any thought of motorsports, make sure your mods are compatible with the ruleset you'll be playing to.
Autocross for sure. Suddenly vaulting yourself into DSP or something will require much, much better driving to be competitive.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks so much guys, tons of good experience to draw off of here.
Invincible- Sounds good, I will keep hunting for those 10mm spacers.

Mingu - I didn't realize that the FMIC was that important. It was already in the plan (though maybe not just right now) but I will bump it up the priority list a bit. I don't care about having a shorter shifter arm. Either way is fine. Just want some added crispiness. Maybe I'll just try the Steeda kit and go from there. Thanks for the congrats! Man, fun car.

Beretta - Hmm. Maybe I'll just start with the Steeda kit and go from there. Sometimes too many options makes things tougher. Good advice on the buyer's remorse, and I appreciate it. Everything that I own is modified though. :cool: Sadly my Ford dealership isn't a FRPP dealership though so some parts that I would have liked would have been way too expensive from them.

Brian - That's awesome on the coolant flow. That explains what that noise is after the engine is cut off. Had no idea that they were water cooled now. So coking of the oil in the turbo just isn't an issue anymore? Hmm. Sorcery.

Gemery and Brian - I might do a little AX with it. Not competitively. I spent 4 years doing track days and roadracing...on 2 wheels. It was my full time passion until I moved half way across the country.

You guys are great. Cheers, Jon
 

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I'm just running the torque solutions short shift arm. it's the cheapest option out there that I could find next would be jbr which gives you the option of adding counterweights. Along with all solid shifter cable bushings and bracket bushings. Haven't touched anything inside yet other than a heavyweight shift knob. Shift so much better. Especially with a stage 2 rmm. I second the fmic being a necessity. Depo is a great bang for your buck.
 

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Anything missing?
Swapping out the rear swaybar endlinks because the stock design binds and helps create that unsettling feel when driving at the limit. Preferably upgrade to an adjustable rear swaybar & endlinks. Call Sam Strano at Stranoparts and buy his recommendation of whatever he has in stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Gem I'm going to hold off on suspension. I don't think I'll be cornering very aggressively for a wile. And on top of that we just spent nearly $3k on Maximum Motorsports suspension for our Mustang. :geek: Glad to know Strano is still doing business though.
 

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....Sadly my Ford dealership isn't a FRPP dealership though so some parts that I would have liked would have been way too expensive from them.
You can buy FRPP parts from various places that aren't affiliated with a dealership (eg. CJ Pony Parts, Mountune etc...). I suspect 95%+ of the folks who want to buy aftermarket performance parts for their ST's don't even consider the dealership as an option.

The dealer primarily becomes relevant for aftermarket parts if you want to maintain some semblance of a warranty while also improving performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I ordered wheels from CJ Pony Parts this morning (I have used them in the past although I usually use LMR.com for Mustang junk). The dealership parts guy said that not being an FRPP dealership they get charged way too much for FRPP parts. He is as annoyed by it as I am. The reason I wanted to use them for some things (tires, wheels, maybe a tune, CAI, shifter etc) if the prices were in line is that I could just roll those things in to the note. And as far as the wheels and tires it would have been convenient.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Stopped by the tint shop to finalize pick out hat we are getting on Tuesday. 18% all around, 80% on the windshield and a 5% banner. Went by the stereo shop, getting a stealth box and an amp...can't recall what kind. I let him pick. The wife likes dubstep so she requires a little bit of bass. Ordered wheels and tires today....ouch. Also, car is representing for Nicky Hayden, the late great Kentucky Kid. (y)
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One more is lighting, I replaced the fog lights with LED's or HID's. The factory fogs are worthless, you can also replace the older incandescent bulbs with LED's, get rid of the yellow yolk back up lamps......
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Loving this car. Never thought I would have real love for a FWD car.

Well I had to cut that mod list back a bit because I found out that I won't be going back to work for a while. I work a funny job. Sometimes I work 350+ hours a month. Other times I'm off for a month or two at a time. Feast/famine. So here is the list of stuff ordered so far. Most is still in the mail. Only the wheels have shown up. Tires will be in Monday or so. Chomping at the bit because the tires on the car are borderline unsafe.

Tint scheduled 4 days from now... feeling impatient.
Sub and amp (for the wife) we are in line but the local guy is a long ways out so that might take a while
ZL1 Rock guards
Black RS wheels
ST centercaps
Black lugnuts
Billet shift knob adapter
Red shift knob
Husky Weatherbeater floor liners and trunk liner ($300 worth of floor mats. Never thought I'd see the day...)
Steeda shifter bushings
Cobb cable bracket bushings

I'll start getting paychecks again in a month. Probably leave it at that until then. After that jacking rails, shifter, hood struts, motor mount, aaaaand... probably a Mountune CAI/FMIC/tune package. I've managed to keep a stock tune on my diesel truck for 5 years of ownership but not sure I have that kind of willpower with a car.
 
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