LSD and tires... like 40 TW tires

 

I was getting consistent 5.7 0-60 times with just traction and stability control turned off and very consistent 5.8's with Cobb's traction control and stability control turned off, which I was happy with since torquey FWD cars aren't the greatest from a dig. However, after installing my RMM and using Stratified's traction control with stability control off I've been hitting 5.5-5.6 seconds. This is according to the 0-60 setting on my accessport.

The TB Performance Torque Gusset paired with a stiffer RMM (in my case the mountune one) reduces torque steer and wheel hope to almost zero on stock power. I would say you gain a couple of tenths with just these two things. Much cheaper than an LSD, so I would start here then tires then LSD. What kind of power are you making? Stock power wont get you below 5.8s-5.9s (from 6.2s stock) even with a RMM, Torque Gusset, better tires, and LSD.

These three basically just named all of our options. The TB Performance Gusset bar is a beast which instantly helps reduce flex to prevent torque steer and wheel hop (torque steer requires subtle adjustments which slow you down since any direction except perfectly straight is slowing you down...and if the cars ESC tries to kick in it's literally braking to help you straighten out) and wheel hop obviously slows you down since your tires are skipping instead of putting down power.

LSD is a rather obvious yet expensive one that helps you put down the power even better as opposed to our stock "Electronic Diff" that utilizes braking and junk that slows you down and blows in the snow/bad weather.

Rear Motor Mount is a HUGE improvement that is a testimate to why it's arguably the most recommended mod on this forum along with intercoolers and stuff. Wheel hop killer for sure. Don't worry...the annoying vibrations go away after 100-200 miles when it breaks in

As also mentioned..Cobb/Stratified Traction Control which uses spark retardation to minimize spin instead of the stupid stock system which uses brakes (throws off weight distribution and obviously using brakes while accelerating hurts) just remember to turn off the stock system or the Cobb/Stratified system won't work...oh and play with the settings. A decked out car can use less slip and have better results.

Big one here...there are only 4 spots of the entire car that touch the road, two of which are the only spots that power is transferred to the road...cheaping out there is an obvious performance killer. Get good tires. It's expensive...and I need them too and I'm dreading that bill...but the difference is so worth it.

Additional stuff not usually mentioned:
Suspension bits. Coilovers go a long way with helping the car's weight distribution and weight transfer off the front tires that are providing power. Also, lower center of gravity helps more than you'd realize.
Power. Duh, right? Add power and it'll improve, but that's not really what you're asking and you knew that already.
Weight reduction. Lowering your weight by 100lbs is enough to see noticeable results on a drag strip...meaning it improves 0-60 too. Science and sh**.

Final one? Sure, you. You need to practice, practice, practice and get better at launching this car...it's already hard to launch...and each mod listed above changes it pretty noticeably. As you learn how to launch better and more smooth your times will improve. Do it on a prepped surface like at a drag strip and it'll only get better.

It's not a straight line car, and 0-60 isn't what it was made to do, but if you work on it and get all the necessary components you can improve it.

 

I was getting consistent 5.7 0-60 times with just traction and stability control turned off and very consistent 5.8's with Cobb's traction control and stability control turned off, which I was happy with since torquey FWD cars aren't the greatest from a dig. However, after installing my RMM and using Stratified's traction control with stability control off I've been hitting 5.5-5.6 seconds. This is according to the 0-60 setting on my accessport.

 

The TB Performance Torque Gusset paired with a stiffer RMM (in my case the mountune one) reduces torque steer and wheel hope to almost zero on stock power. I would say you gain a couple of tenths with just these two things. Much cheaper than an LSD, so I would start here then tires then LSD. What kind of power are you making? Stock power wont get you below 5.8s-5.9s (from 6.2s stock) even with a RMM, Torque Gusset, better tires, and LSD.

 

I wouldnt put too much emphasis on the 0-60 other than just for personal improvement. Car wasnt really designed with the 0-60 sprint as its number one priority. It's pretty easy to burn traction in first and second too, so i would put some extra emphasis putting your power down;stickiest/wides tires you can handle to help out, rear motor mount and maybe traction bar for bolt on mods.

This reading might give you some more insight (more so towards quarter mile but you can apply it to 0-60 to see if it helps)
https://www.focusst.org/forum/focus...ussions/15906-so-let-me-get-straight-shift-5-5k-rpms-quickest-acceleration.html

 

I've hit mid 5s to 60 stock by getting off the clutch just right at — IIRC — around 2k (maybe a little more, I don't remember exactly, but it was definitely under peak torque). From there, it's a matter of learning the traction limitations of the tires and holding it just at that threshold. While most of my cars have been low end torque producers, I'll admit that some of getting that traction balance right was down to luck for me and I couldn't do that consistently unless I practiced it frequently.

 

Sub-5 second 0-60? I'm not sure if that's possible without big turbo, LSD, traction bars, and slicks. A bigger turbo may be unnecessary, but I don't see it being done without slicks on a proper track. Even if you can launch perfectly, any imperfection in the road could cause wheel spin. Mid 5's seem to be the sweet spot, but you should compare how quick these cars are in a roll race which is where they shine. For example, I have a '94 Corvette. 300hp/350tq. My ST definitely makes more power than it and they're about the same weight, but the ST will never keep up with it from a dig and you'll never get the same kind of g-force feeling as you do with a RWD car.

 

Some good info here! Thanks to everyone who gave their valuable comments.

Currently I am 100% stock but I have been looking into a stage 2 package. I saw somewhere that a 300hp 400tq FoST only had like .2 improvement in 0-60 (it only had power mods) which is why I am wondering what non power mods will help get the power down better.

I understand that this car isn’t made for hard launches and accel, but I am an engineer at Chrysler so all my coworkers have Challenger or Charger R/Ts and I want to be able to beat them flat out in a drag race. Whether or not it’s possible with bolt ons and a tune, I want to try.


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I doubt you could beat them from a dig, unless they aren't the best of drivers or you have slicks or something. I've roll raced a stock 2018 Charger R/T with the 8-speed auto, no idea what mode he was in, but I walked him from a 40 roll. Power to weight.

 

Try doing that again with a Scat Pack or 392. The 5.7l in the R/T just isn't enough to haul around the 4,2xx pound chassis. But yes, 40-90 MPH rolls are where the Focus ST excels at. Minimal wheel slip and enough low end torque (coupled with 3,2xx curb weight) will take out a lot of "sport" cars.

 

Keep all extra weight out of your car and even keep gas between 1/4 - 1/2 tank for your spirited runs against them. If you are planning on having a drag with them, I'd even leave the spare and jack at home. Might be able to squeak out an extra tenth better if you can drop 100lbs

some various weights:
https://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-builds/4707-omniphil-chronicles-shedding-weight.html

 

The OP was referring to R/T's, that's why I mentioned that, but obviously the 6.4 would be faster.

 

Is it too snarky to answer "Replace ST with Mustang GT?" :lol::lol:

 

Lighter wheels and tires. I found a 18-inch wheels that weighed about 17 pounds each. I believe it was the general gmax RS that I was looking at weighed 21 pounds. That's 12 lbs per corner of unsprung weight/ rotating Mass.I believe I read removing one pound of unsprung weight/ rotating Mass from the wheel is like lightening your car 20 pounds. If that is true that wheel and tire combination alone is like lightening your car 960lbs. I believe that's why a lot of racers use smaller Wheels due to the weight savings.

 

I don't believe it is 1:12 for that conversion...it's a little closer to 1:3 or 1:4 usually meaning if you drop 1lb per corner you essentially drop 12-16lbs total. Still, it does make a pretty substantial difference in terms of being an easy fix. Some people even say it's less...like 1:1.5...some people say it's a little higher like 1:6-1:10...definitely not in the higher double digits though unless you have absolutely PERFECT conditions...which we don't.

Sources to support this:
https://www.cjponyparts.com/resources/what-is-unsprung-weight
https://suspensionspot.com/blogs/news/improve-your-track-car-reducing-unsprung-weight