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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Installed the strano sway and massive end links. Not sure I got it quite as parallel as I should have it, and there's always a chance I have things upside down. Looking for some thoughts from people who have installed a similar set up.

With no load on and tires off:
Auto part Suspension Suspension part Tire Automotive tire
Auto part Tire Suspension Fuel line Automotive tire


With tires on the ramp looks like this:
Auto part Suspension Suspension part Coil spring
Auto part Suspension Suspension part Rim Wheel
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Okay, so I think it was not as good as I could have done as far as getting them parallel, so I adjusted the endlinks to get them to stock height, or as close as I could and then made sure the mounting brackets were as high as they could go and tightened it back down. I think they are better although it's hard to tell in the pictures and I am sure there is room for improvement. Again tips welcome
Auto part Suspension Coil spring Suspension part
Auto part Suspension Suspension part Fuel line
 

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Looks fine to me. There is plenty of meat on those bushings for a reason. I would be more concerned if your ball joint at the top were cocked at a steep angle up or down. Depending on the ride you're looking for, it looks like you could make the bottom nut underneath the lower bushing a bit tighter to compress the bushings a bit more. They may be sloppy otherwise.

When I pulled apart my stock endlinks, the "parallelism" you refer to didn't seem to be a factor for the manufacturing plant, because my OEM endlink was on a considerably steep angle, compressing the bushings much more on one side than the other. I don't see this as an issue at all. Again, lots of meat on those bushings.


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Looks fine to me. There is plenty of meat on those bushings for a reason. I would be more concerned if your ball joint at the top were cocked at a steep angle up or down. Depending on the ride you're looking for, it looks like you could make the bottom nut underneath the lower bushing a bit tighter to compress the bushings a bit more. They may be sloppy otherwise.

When I pulled apart my stock endlinks, the "parallelism" you refer to didn't seem to be a factor for the manufacturing plant, because my OEM endlink was on a considerably steep angle, compressing the bushings much more on one side than the other. I don't see this as an issue at all. Again, lots of meat on those bushings.


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Thanks for chiming in! I was unsure about how tight to do the bushings, I had read somewhere to tighten them but not pancake them. I'll give them a few more turns though and get them a little more snug. Then I'll have to take it out and give it a test ride.
 

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Thanks for chiming in! I was unsure about how tight to do the bushings, I had read somewhere to tighten them but not pancake them. I'll give them a few more turns though and get them a little more snug. Then I'll have to take it out and give it a test ride.
Definitely don't pancake them but they should be compressed. This way the bushing takes the load and responds when the sway bar flexes relative to the knuckle, instead of the endlink's threads grinding against the knuckle until the bushing firms up under compressive load.

These ones have a few moving pieces so keep an eye on them for movement of the nuts and the main threaded member, particularly after any aggressive/track driving.


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Definitely don't pancake them but they should be compressed. This way the bushing takes the load and responds when the sway bar flexes relative to the knuckle, instead of the endlink's threads grinding against the knuckle until the bushing firms up under compressive load.

These ones have a few moving pieces so keep an eye on them for movement of the nuts and the main threaded member, particularly after any aggressive/track driving.
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I tightened them up a bit and took it out on a good drive on some very twisty roads. It felt great, but I'll check it out in a few days and make sure things are staying put and in the future too. Thanks again!
 

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They look fine. I have the strano bar and massive links. mine are setup like yours. I wish there was a way to snug down the links without worrying about 'pancaking' the bushing though. My only gripe is that the nuts on the ends of the rod keep loosening up on mine so I have to retighten after every autox, lol. Honestly I may try to go back to the oem links, or modify these links.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
They look fine. I have the strano bar and massive links. mine are setup like yours. I wish there was a way to snug down the links without worrying about 'pancaking' the bushing though. My only gripe is that the nuts on the ends of the rod keep loosening up on mine so I have to retighten after every autox, lol. Honestly I may try to go back to the oem links, or modify these links.
I was thinking after I get my new suspension on, to loc-tite the nuts so they stay where they are. I don't know if that's a bad idea or not though, but once I have it set I wouldn't really have a need to change it ever.
 

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I was thinking after I get my new suspension on, to loc-tite the nuts so they stay where they are. I don't know if that's a bad idea or not though, but once I have it set I wouldn't really have a need to change it ever.
Mine tend to loosen up after a track day aswell. However, to do a rear brake job, it is FAR easier to remove the top endlink post from the sway bar to get at the 7mm allen head on the caliper pin... I scuff up the rear pads & rotors then re-lube the pads after each track day so the end links being essentially cemented in place with lock-tite would make things far more tedious.

Something to keep in mind.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Mine tend to loosen up after a track day aswell. However, to do a rear brake job, it is FAR easier to remove the top endlink post from the sway bar to get at the 7mm allen head on the caliper pin... I scuff up the rear pads & rotors then re-lube the pads after each track day so the end links being essentially cemented in place with lock-tite would make things far more tedious.

Something to keep in mind.
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Thanks, I have just gotten into doing work on my own vehicles and haven't done a brake job yet, this is the type of info that will save me a lot of hassle in the future!
 

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If you can, sit in your car and have someone adjust them to dial them in a little more. The sway looks a *tad* high but it may be because the pictures. I had danny adjust mine while sitting and it seemed much better while driving.


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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I also don't know **** so just disregard my comment. ����*♂


BooSTed Aspirations
I read about people putting weight in the passenger seat, or having a buddy sit in it for final adjustments so I think you are right with that line of thinking. Next time my cousin is over I'll get it on ramps and I'll dial it in and double check everything is tight.
 
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