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I wasn't suggesting it would "solve" the problem, I was suggesting it would help solve the problem in conjunction with the approaches you mentioned.

Unless you're saying the benefit you would get from it isn't worth the cost, I don't understand the point of view.

I haven't really seen anyone with an ST with 10" wheels on the front to ask how much it helps, which is why im asking here.

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Wider tires won't solve the problem.

It's what is connected to the ground, but there a whole host of other things happening. As I said, if you really want to solve the problem it takes a holistic approach that just buying tires won't solve.

Just doing what I outlined in my PM will solve some of it and you won't need new tires. But you need to do ALL THE ABOVE for it to work, piecemeal is not an option here.
 

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I have 9.5 in wide wheels... why do you need to cut fenders for another .5"? offset is correct and you will fit 10" wheels.

My 9.5 wide wheels have 245s on them, I would assume it makes more sense to say what size rubber is on there and not the wheel. in less you are assuming that a 10" wide wheel is natively going to have a 285 tire?

I noticed nothing different, the biggest thing I noticed was a sticky compound PS4s tire. but i am not high HP so I am not even speaking in the same ball park
 

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I have 9.5 in wide wheels... why do you need to cut fenders for another .5"? offset is correct and you will fit 10" wheels.

My 9.5 wide wheels have 245s on them, I would assume it makes more sense to say what size rubber is on there and not the wheel. in less you are assuming that a 10" wide wheel is natively going to have a 285 tire?

I noticed nothing different, the biggest thing I noticed was a sticky compound PS4s tire. but i am not high HP so I am not even speaking in the same ballpark
Wider tires won't help, as I stated before if that was the case more people would do it and claim it's a success. Ford gives you enough tire to work with. My slicks if converted back into metric comes out to 245/45-17, not much wider at all.

It is a slick however so it will stick better but at the expense of introducing more drag. If you don't mind giving up a few MPH to get your ET, slicks work great. When you have an overabundance of power this isn't a problem.

I wouldn't call 400 hp a ton more, the chassis handles it perfectly. I bet you could double the horsepower again and things would be fine.

Looking at those who have spent the money to buy drag radials haven't largely solved the problem either. It will reduce wheel spin in 2nd, but by then it's too late. Look at the time slips of anybody using drag radials on a FWD car and you'll see it's mostly 1.9x and a few high 1.8x.

The minor improvement in performance doesn't justify the additional cost and tire wear.

So how come RWD and AWD use these sticky tires more efficiency? Is it configuration? It is transmission? Curiously Mickey Thompson says it's drag radials work best on Automatic cars.

What if I told you that it's possible to get same short times as all those cars do? You can definitely beat the short times the average person gets in any of those cars. @500whp an AWD car will spin all four Michelin PS4's with a hard launch so how is that solving the problem? The RS will still spin the tires if launched hard enough with the stock turbo. All you have to do is look at the time slips.

The solution is out there and I have to keep the slow drip because the questions around the solution must be dealt. Since he has coilovers already I suggested he start by getting the most out of those and using it to his advantage.
 

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Not the highest out there but defiantly too 5-10 lol
 

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Updated the Dyno sheet thread, how often is this thread updated?
 

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