Ford Focus ST Forum banner

1 - 20 of 104 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,053 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
What mileage are you at, have you had any issues, and what have you replaced?


I recently bumped another high mileage thread, but it looks like it's old from 2015, so wanted to start a new one.


My 2013 is at 90k. Oil changes, one set of brake pads, and two sets of tires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
2013 with 64k. Both inner and outer tie rods and regular maintenance

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,089 Posts
Actually it was from 2014 :cool: no worries, 49500 miles myself (34k of those in the past 18 months) and been tuned since ~18k with no issues except my syncros are noticeably becoming worn for 2nd gear. And my charge pipe blew off my aftermarket intercooler once and hairspray/better clamps did the trick there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
2013 120k. no problems whatsoever mechanical, just regular maintenance. I have had rust issues but those have been taken care of.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,754 Posts
  • Like
Reactions: Fuxalt

·
Registered
Joined
·
352 Posts
2016 ST1 just north of 50K. Now on my second set of tires, everything else is still original including the brake pads. No issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
2014 ST3, now at just under 90k. Bought it new in December of 2013.
I've been running Cobb Stage 1 plus Cobb DP and Borla Exhaust for over a year, and running on the Cobb OTS Stage 3 map because I'm reckless and irresponsible.
It also has a Cobb short-shift plate installed a year ago.
It's also been my daily for all these years.

I've only had 2 major non-recall related issues.
When I bought the car "new", it had something like 300+ miles of sales mule miles on it, so I expected it mostly eager test drives by teens who couldn't actually afford to buy it.
2nd gear always seems a little weird to me, I'd have issues getting it into gear with sudden up or down shifts. I always just assumed it was a quirk of the car, so I'd actively avoid downshifting to 2nd, and wouldn't accelerate hard until it was already in 2nd or 3rd gear.
Sure enough, I'd had the car a little over a year when the 2nd gear syncros finally gave out. Thankfully, Ford didn't give me any trouble about replacing it under warranty.
I've had no other transmission issues to this day.

Secondly, I had the dreaded missing sunroof drain tube issue.
I'd had the car for several years at this point, and have never had a garage, carport, or even a cover for it. It's sat in the rain, and been driven in the rain.
One day I'm getting in the car to leave work, and after a pretty bad rain storm, and find that not only is the passenger floorboard wet...it has standing water in it.
I was actually leaving work early that day for a scheduled oil change at the dealership, so I was able to get it looked at same day.
They pulled the carpet up and the trim out and confirmed that, indeed, the passenger side sunroof tray drain tube was missing. There's no way for it to come out without being removed, so it had to have been missing from the factory.
I don't know how I went so long without discovering this, and if it weren't for the fact that I saw the passenger side with carpet pulled, trim removed, and water cleaned out I'd probably have reoccuring nightmares about how much damage must have been done to the interior over that time.
I went ahead and paid the extra labor to have them verify that the driver side tube was there, thankfully it was.
I had to get Ford Customer Care involved to get around the $700+ the dealership tried to charge me, but I was adamant that despite being out of warranty there was no way I was going to pay for a manufacturing defect that was known to exist on these cars.
In the end I paid a half hour labor charge and nothing else.

Aside from these two issues, the three recalls, and the Cobb and Borla parts mentioned above, I've done the following:

Oil changes at between 7500 and 15k miles, dependent on what my work schedule allows, always full synthetic.

Stoptech slotted rotors and hawk pads; it only really needed pads but I caught a great sale price.

This is the third set of tires, Pilot Sport A/S 3's, I had a set of Ventus S1 Nobile2's before these, and the Eagle F1's before that.

I've drained and replaced the brake fluid once

I've had the spark plugs replaced once. This was done on a whim just to see their condition, there wasn't any indication it was needed. The factory plugs were fine. I believe I replaced them with the OEM part.

I broke a rear sway bar end link somehow and replaced it.

I had to replace the driver side fog light after it was broken by a rock.

I hit a racoon a few years ago, haven't had it in the budget to get the bumper replaced (thanks deductible). It only cracked the lower left corner and also removed those silly electric cooling slats for me, so that was helpful.

Except for the first year I owned it, the car only gets top-tier 93, and almost always the fancy 93 from Shell.

I've also put a lot of wiper blades on and washer fluid in the car, because midwestern winters.

Aside from all this, I've done nothing else to the car.
Factory fluids, factory A/C charge, factory clutch, factory suspension components, and so on.

Oddly enough, it's been the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned. And I definitely don't baby it.
Any time it's sat long enough to cool off, I wait for the idle to kick down before leaving the driveway, and I wait until the oil temp is on the gauge before pushing high boost.
But this car sees WOT 2nd/3rd/4th gear pulls a dozen times a week or more. I handbrake turn from my street to my driveway anytime there's snow on the ground.
It's done track days, autocross events, and make a few runs down an 1/8th mile drag strip. Not that it has a great 1/8 mile time, but it was still fun.

If someone had told me 4 years ago that the ST had the reliability of a Toyota, I wouldn't have believed it. But honestly, my old Toyota has had more downtime that this car has.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,274 Posts
2016 ST2 55,600 miles (one set of tires, two sets of plugs, one engine)

Uber, Lyft and now Postmates

25-30 drag strip passes, I'd have more if it wasn't for oil downs and heavy car counts.

Hurt the original engine tuning my nitrous system. Put in a used motor at 44,000 and added CPe/Steeda Intercooler, ATP GTX3071 with High Boost actuator and Mountune Hard Pipe and Silicone hoses.

Various tunes, currently 100 octane run on 91 during normal business hours.

Boost is limited to 18 psi because I forgot to check the preload before installing the turbo. Since it pretty much has to be removed to adjust it, I have avoiding doing it so I can get other things done while the car is apart.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SiThlord

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
2013 ST3 68k
On 2nd set of tires, basic oil changes, 2nd set of pads, need to replace tie rods.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,582 Posts
2013 ST with 79K. 3 sets of tires, pads and rotors, oil changes and basic maintenance. No real issues to speak of.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
169 Posts
2016 rr st1... new turbo, clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder @ 85k under warranty...catless dp, green filter, and resonator delete are the only mods...99k+ atm... coolant flush, and plugs at next oil change... still no cost...3yr 125k warranty and service plan... I've bought tires... and gas...
 

·
Registered
2013 Oxford White Focus ST3
Joined
·
454 Posts
My 2013 is at 87k and nothing done to it besides regular maintenance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
352 Posts
2013 somewhere around 112k, bought with 92k. Been tuned and driven pretty hard since then lol. Basically just regular maintence.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
For you guys with a touch of rust here and there...hatch gate and a bit on the hood?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
My old 2013 ST had 84k miles and other than an upgraded FSWERKS intake tube and filter, just regular maintenance kept her going strong without any problems. Was my daily driver and took some long distance trips too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
145,000km now on the wife's daily drive. 25,000km in the last year with only wiring harness issues(p0106) still in the hot weather. Mountune full exhaust and intercooler, gfb BOV with a Stratified tune.
Oil change 5,000km, no rattles and still running smooth.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Actually it was from 2014 :cool: no worries, 49500 miles myself (34k of those in the past 18 months) and been tuned since ~18k with no issues except my syncros are noticeably becoming worn for 2nd gear. And my charge pipe blew off my aftermarket intercooler once and hairspray/better clamps did the trick there.
Sorry, I don’t know what the syncros are? Something to do with the clutch? If that’s the case, do you drive aggressive? Is that expensive to fix?
I’m stage 1 91, running 93 oct. on stock everything. Daily commute, almost never redline or tire spin
Thanks for the good info


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,089 Posts
Sorry, I don’t know what the syncros are? Something to do with the clutch? If that’s the case, do you drive aggressive? Is that expensive to fix?
I’m stage 1 91, running 93 oct. on stock everything. Daily commute, almost never redline or tire spin
Thanks for the good info


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The transmission synchros are in the simplest of explanation, where the transmission is spinning at 4k rpm and you try to downshift to 3rd...and the RPM has to jump to 5.5k..it won't go in gear unless the RPMs match up. The synchros are what match the speeds up and allow it to go into gear. A synchro goes out and suddenly you might not be able to shift to 3rd unless you rev match exactly the RPM you need to.

I'm out for a run typing this so I apologize if I balled it up
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
The transmission synchros are in the simplest of explanation, where the transmission is spinning at 4k rpm and you try to downshift to 3rd...and the RPM has to jump to 5.5k..it won't go in gear unless the RPMs match up. The synchros are what match the speeds up and allow it to go into gear. A synchro goes out and suddenly you might not be able to shift to 3rd unless you rev match exactly the RPM you need to.

I'm out for a run typing this so I apologize if I balled it up
Thanks for the quick explanation. From what I gather, a more “relaxed” driving manner would probably put less(or none) wear on the synchros... or is that a common problem you think? For the synchros to go under normal driving?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 104 Posts
Top