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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a 2014 it has the harness tab just done and it was reflashed at the dealer before I bought it. I bought it in September it was fine really untill it got cold put. Now upon start up it sputters and under light load is stumbles anything around 2000 rpm. I've never beaten or launched it haven't even seen full boost. I did do the muffler resonator delete. I searched on Google and found many similar post but none seem to have found a fix or a solution to this problem. My commute to work is short and I've never had the oil temp in the middle highest it's ever gone is a quarter sorry forgot the actual temp it says there. Is my car not at optimal operating temp and this is why? I run only 93 which is hard to find where I live. This can't be how the car runs I haven't pulled plugs yet but I can't believe under that light of a load it would be an issue maybe at wot but I'm not a mechanic. I want to mod the car intercooler, downpipe, tune and advebtually go big turbo someday but this kinda worries me. Any help is greatly appreciated as I said I Know this has been covered but seems like no answers. Could Ford have done the table wrong? Also brought it to the dealer and under the drivetrain warranty they wouldn't cover it unless I paid 140 for diagnostics does this make sense? I just gave them 17,000+ dollars and have only 2000 miles on the car dosent sound right to me the dealer sucks wish I knew that before I've never had problems with warranty even with my other big turbo cars in the past. Maybe I had a dealer who didn't care.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So today it started doing it really bad really bad low rpms when the car got warmed up I did a pull still did it untill very high rpms. Then car ran like complete crap way worse car is bucking and jerking me around still no cel light does anyone think this could be the fuel pump ? Did Ford mess up the tsb? I don't have any money to really fix any problems and my dealer sucks.can anyone else chime in? Could it really be the ground? This is my daily driver. I can believe I'm having these problems after under 3000 miles another note it's been 30 below lately in Maine. It I've kept my fuel tank above 3/4 I don't know what to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Update my landlord is a mechanic but old school. We just pulled my plugs and there was alot of carbon build-up he had a special tool that cleans them we cleaned them and gapped them to 30. The third cylinder spark plugs was the worst it had alot of carbon build-up he said they looked fine . They also said Ford on them stock plugs maybe? Anyways car is running the same maybe worse. He said maybe its the coolant sensor not sending the right temperature? He also said my car is not burning all the fuel by the way the exhaust smells? He also said maybe my cat is going or dumping raw fuel sorry I'm not that mechanically inclined just enough to get myself in trouble. I planned on tuning it and doing a catless dp anyway. But don't want to do these mods untill the car runs right from the copy I got from Ford. the work they did to it looks like they reflashed my computer 3 times? And did the wiring splice repair TSB. They fixed a broken sway bar, stabilizer bar, shackle, bushing and but. Also when I took the air cover off after I bought it there looked like a mouse nest in it and under the at engine bay cover. They said no way to prove it happened there. They are awful to work with. And there is no cel I wish there was could it be the crappy winter blend but my car is sputtering hard. And I noticed on ice when the traction control kicks in it does this more and way harder I know it does this to some extent but this dosent feel right. Also my oil looks black after 3000 miles. That's all the info i can think of on it. I'm pretty upset over this. This car was my dream car. Really wanted one for years now this I guess I'm unlucky.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Also when I bought the car end of summer the temp gauge would go in the middle 150? Now it won't go above 130 it hasn't been warmer then 10 her though
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I let it warm up temp gauge did hit close to the middle mark and car ran worse than before taking off it sputtered real bad. I did a pull and it felt stronger and more power than I've seen from it. After that I I got to a stop sign and it sputtered real bad. All I can think of is there's bad spark or not getting enough fuel my car's been getting awful gas milage too and I baby it. Just wanted to do a pull to see if it ran better at higher rpms...also it seems when I go uphills it sputters even more. Why am I not getting a CEL
 

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flutter/misfires

noturbo14

I own a 2014 ST (second ST) and recently had a problem similar to yours. It started around 45k. It started slowly with occasional missing/flutter and bucking. Engine would perform well if I gave it some boost.

Went to the dealer and they tried to code it. No code!

I just kept driving it and symptoms gradually got worse. One of the major issues was engine dying whenever I disengaged the clutch, especially at stop signs. I gradually got used to the issue and got good at compensating for it.

Meanwhile, my second trip to the dealer got a map sensor code. I let them do some sort of engine treatment and I think they checked the injectors. They recommended changing plugs, but I did that myself a couple weeks later at just 50k. Book says plugs are good for 100k. I personally didn’t think the plugs look unusual for 50k.

I started using Phillips and BP nonalcohol premium exclusively. I found early on that even though the book says alcohol fuel is OK, the mpg really suffers in the 2014 ST while using it, up to 10mpg loss. This has not happened in most of my driving experience since 1969.

After another couple k we did another code check with no result. Still had the driving issues though. They talked about intermittent map sensor code from several weeks before, but I decided to just continue driving the car a while longer.

To get to the quick, at around 55k, late October, the issues just cleared up all at once. There was a day I was driving around town with the wife and remarked to her that the car had not died or fluttered in several days.

Well here we are New Year’s Day and with the exception of a couple isolated incidence, the car has had no issues.

Not really sure what the issue was/is or what solved it but I’m happy right now.

About a month ago I did watch several YouTube videos describing Fords eco-boost engines with direct injection. There has been an issue with excess carbon buildup on the exhaust valves which does seem to cause many of the symptoms I (and you) was having.

Seems Ford knows about this issue and some of the reports I heard and read said Ford was replacing some heads because they had no remedial solution.

OBTW, I drive to and from work 30 mile each way 6 days a week.

The oil temp gauge will always get to the halfway point on the gauge except in really cool weather. I’ve been on vacation this CHRISTmas week, so it will be interesting to see what happens tomorrow with the forecast at -14 when I go to work. Haven’t had the car in this cold of weather.

I live in western Iowa and it was -21 overnight last evening, New Year’s Eve.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Im worried the car is going to die on the way to work its that bad. I drive 11 miles it has been -20-25 some mornings I let it warm up. Even up to temperature today it was acting up bad even after we checked and gapped the plugs. Seemed to act worse does the car have to adjust to it being gapped again. It seems to be spark because you can smell unburned fuel the carbon buildup on the plugs was awful dark dark black couldn't even see the electrode on one. But car still runs bad and plugs look fine now. I don't know where else to start. Maybe the ground idk. Fuel. Just dosent make sense a car can run this bad and not throw the cel. Also I read in a post that even though the tsb was done there's a recall to maybe I missed it but it said you need both done I would think it was the same thing. Anyone have any ideas of what I should check next. Or how I make the dealer help me I bought the drivetrain warranty.
 

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-25 holy frozen hell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah I live in the middle of Maine it sucks and this is my daily driver.. yesterday I re gapped the plugs and this morning -20 it ran like crap. Also on my way home I put it in sport mode by accident it's never said sport mode before normally I hold down the traction control to turn it off today by mistake I double tapped it and it said sport mode. Anyway it ran better at this point the motor was at 135 140 for temp. I let it idle in the yard it still sounded like a slight misfire but hardly noticeable what I did notice is I think my injectors sounded louder the ticking? Could my car have been previously tinned and it's still in the system and messing stuff up? Could my plugs be bad even though they don't look it like I said they were full of carbon number three specifically they say Ford on them. Idk if there the origional with 68k on them? Anyone have an idea what to do next Ford won't help they charge 110 an hour up here Wich is rediculous there's a guy down the road that charges 60 and I get 25% military discount.... But I am under warranty atleast drivetrain i just don't want to bring it in and eat the 140 diagnostic fee and the 110 an hour for them to tell me something miniscule I heard of guys getting extreme carbon buildup and they replaced the head the plugs were black really black. Anyone have this issue the studering stumbling bucking light throttle and when you step on it dose seem to do it at wot just before it hesitates bad I wish I had a cel
 

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i would look to see what the Coolant temp sensor running to the ECU is reading.not sure if ford uses 1 for the gauge and 1 for the ECU.
just an idea...
 

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Mine has the same issue just not as bad as yours. mine will putt putt for a bit on a cold start. from what I heard that's normal. after a few minutes of it warming up, it goes away. I would defiantly try changing the plugs. make sure you have the right ones. go with Motorcraft to be safe, but NGK will work. most auto parts stores won't say ngk fit but you can find the rights ones. there is a thead on here that tells you which to go with. CHECK the gap if its off it will hesistate also check the coil packs make sure there sitting right.

When you pull the plugs check for build up if one has more then the rest you could have some build up in that intake valve. you may need to get the valves cleaned.
try running a good fuel additive. I've personally used seafoam and it def made a difference. over a few days, I noticed black soot on my bumper right above the tip. so it did clean it. how good I cant say.

if you think you can do it, I've heard the CRC stuff works really good
here is a link

http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-maintenance/37749-crc-intake-valve-cleaner.html

heres a video of how to pull apart the intake and do a liquidless cleaning. I've read you can do it the same way but with the CRC and a small thin long wire brush.


here is the way I would try if I were you.

1st get a can of seafoam. wait till your about 1/4 tank of fuel put the whole can seafoam in before fueling up, add about 5 gals of fuel this will let the seafoam mix with the fuel. run it till its about 1/8 of a tank then fill it all the way no seafoam on the second fill up. run that gas till its almost gone. once that tank is gone change the plugs. check the gap, make sure to NOT damage the electrode. iridium plugs electrodes are know to be damaged easy during gapping. so make sure to do it right or take them to a mechanic to gap them for you before installing. This will be the easiest cheapest route, this will not clean your valves but it will help clean the rest of your fuel system.

2nd thing you can do after is try cleaning your valves. or at least have them checked.
 

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Mine has the same issue just not as bad as yours. mine will putt putt for a bit on a cold start. from what I heard that's normal. after a few minutes of it warming up, it goes away. I would defiantly try changing the plugs. make sure you have the right ones. go with Motorcraft to be safe, but NGK will work. most auto parts stores won't say ngk fit but you can find the rights ones. there is a thead on here that tells you which to go with. CHECK the gap if its off it will hesistate also check the coil packs make sure there sitting right.

When you pull the plugs check for build up if one has more then the rest you could have some build up in that intake valve. you may need to get the valves cleaned.
try running a good fuel additive. I've personally used seafoam and it def made a difference. over a few days, I noticed black soot on my bumper right above the tip. so it did clean it. how good I cant say.

if you think you can do it, I've heard the CRC stuff works really good
here is a link

http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-maintenance/37749-crc-intake-valve-cleaner.html

heres a video of how to pull apart the intake and do a liquidless cleaning. I've read you can do it the same way but with the CRC and a small thin long wire brush.


here is the way I would try if I were you.

1st get a can of seafoam. wait till your about 1/4 tank of fuel put the whole can seafoam in before fueling up, add about 5 gals of fuel this will let the seafoam mix with the fuel. run it till its about 1/8 of a tank then fill it all the way no seafoam on the second fill up. run that gas till its almost gone. once that tank is gone change the plugs. check the gap, make sure to NOT damage the electrode. iridium plugs electrodes are know to be damaged easy during gapping. so make sure to do it right or take them to a mechanic to gap them for you before installing. This will be the easiest cheapest route, this will not clean your valves but it will help clean the rest of your fuel system.

2nd thing you can do after is try cleaning your valves. or at least have them checked.

It is explicitly stated somewhere that Seafoam/CRC will void the warranty. It's really bad for turbos. @brian60 ?
 

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It is explicitly stated somewhere that Seafoam/CRC will void the warranty. It's really bad for turbos. @brian60 ?
Ford will clean your valves with crc if you take it to them. So it must not be that bad.

I wouldn’t run seafood direct into the intake. As a fuel additive I don’t see how it would void the warranty.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Ford will clean your valves with crc if you take it to them. So it must not be that bad.

I wouldn’t run seafood direct into the intake. As a fuel additive I don’t see how it would void the warranty.


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Yeah in the gas no big deal.

I was referring to it as an induction services, because it can dislodge chunks of carbon for the turbine to chew up.
 

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It is explicitly stated somewhere that Seafoam/CRC will void the warranty. It's really bad for turbos. @brian60 ?
Ford will clean your valves with crc if you take it to them. So it must not be that bad.

I wouldn’t run seafood direct into the intake. As a fuel additive I don’t see how it would void the warranty.


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Yeah Seafoam has been known to REALLY not play nice at all with Ecoboost motors. It won't touch my ST ever. Nope.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well I did have build up of cylinder 3 spark plug and all of them were gapped to 30. They looked fine but said Ford on them. I don't know if there origional. Could they look fine and still be messes up? alot my buddy said he's never seen that amount of buildup before? Will the seafoam work? You guys kinda went back and forth. I'm not skilled enough to clean my valves I don't think will Ford do this under drivetrain warranty? My dealer sucks and like I said I'm scared to take it to them first a 140 diagnostic fee then 110 an hour if it's not a warranty item. It seems to run better now not as much light throttle sputtering just now if I go to give it has especially in first heat it bucks then goes? Does anyone live in Maine that could help me I passed a st today on the highway in my wife's car. I have a fully equipped mechanics shop I have access to on my property my landlord is a mechanic but won't touch new school stuff knows nothing about direct injection. If I do end up cleaning the intake should I do a spacer at the same time? I would take it to the dealer but they were kind of rude said I should have purchased a better warranty.and they were unwilling to work with me I didn't want them to touch it untill I'm out of options on my end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I have a 7 month old and cannot be stranded on the side of the road waiting that's why I'm worked up and part of the reason I bought a newer car is to be reliable. The dealer is prime in saco Maine I wouldn't buy from them.
 

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Well I did have build up of cylinder 3 spark plug and all of them were gapped to 30. They looked fine but said Ford on them. I don't know if there origional. Could they look fine and still be messes up? alot my buddy said he's never seen that amount of buildup before? Will the seafoam work? You guys kinda went back and forth. I'm not skilled enough to clean my valves I don't think will Ford do this under drivetrain warranty? My dealer sucks and like I said I'm scared to take it to them first a 140 diagnostic fee then 110 an hour if it's not a warranty item. It seems to run better now not as much light throttle sputtering just now if I go to give it has especially in first heat it bucks then goes? Does anyone live in Maine that could help me I passed a st today on the highway in my wife's car. I have a fully equipped mechanics shop I have access to on my property my landlord is a mechanic but won't touch new school stuff knows nothing about direct injection. If I do end up cleaning the intake should I do a spacer at the same time? I would take it to the dealer but they were kind of rude said I should have purchased a better warranty.and they were unwilling to work with me I didn't want them to touch it untill I'm out of options on my end.

Anything you put in the fuel will only clean the injectors and cylinders. Your valves will need to be cleaned manually. I’d give it a shot. I’ve ran a can of sea foam in the fuel with no issues.

I’d also call your warranty see what they think. it sounds like bs that the dealer doesn’t want to warranty. If they say yes it’s covered have them call the dealer direct.


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