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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got the Wagner Thermo quiet pads. Is installation as simple as if I were just changing the OEM pads for OEM pads? Do ceramic pads need anything special for the install?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Shouldn't need anything special. Make sure to follow the manufactures break-in process for the pads. I would recommend changing rotors since the oem pad material is embedded in your oem rotors.

Sent from another galaxy.
and if I don't cut or change the rotors will bedding occur on top of the old?
 

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If it were me I’d just get new rotors, I had 2 sets turned on my Wrangler and always ended up with a pulse in the brake pedal after a few thousand miles.

I don’t think they would bed properly on the old rotor since the rotor is already bedded with the material from the other pads which Unfocused already pointed out.. Super simple job
 

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:whs: I turned my stock rotors and went with ceramic pads. I tore the rotors up within a couple months. The pulsing got horrible. The stock castings are just not very good and the ceramics tear them up
 

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I got the Power Stop kit (front and back rotors plus the pads for ~$300). They're a little stiff and noisy until they heat up--especially on a cold night but they stop very well. I'd recommend them. Like others have said, make sure you break them in correctly. Most manufacturers will include a short break-in guide.
 

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I replaced my brakes at 21k on my 2013 FOST with Hawk ceramic pads and I turned the rotors. You should never reuse the rotors without turning them, or replacing them. Grooves are cut into the surface of the old rotors with wear, and when you put on new pads it will take longer to break the pads in, especially if they are ceramic, and they won't last as long. I went to 71k miles with the Hawk pads (on turned rotors) and they still had about 40% left, but my rotors had gotten a little warped. Since I was replacing the rotors anyway I also swapped out the pads.
 

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I've found Wagner Thermo Quiet Ceramics to be hard on rotors. I now only use Akebono, when choosing aftermarket ceramic. They are an OEM supplier, and they make formulations that work very well. I'm sure there are other good ones as well, but I don't have the time or energy to experiment any longer.

With that said, the newer OEM FoST Ford pads are very good. I'll be using them again when it comes time for replacement.

If the rotors aren't grooved, and have no rust on them, I'll just install new pads. If they are grooved or rusted, I replace them. Gave up on turning rotors a while ago...too many issues with shops not turning them properly.
 

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I've found Wagner Thermo Quiet Ceramics to be hard on rotors. I now only use Akebono, when choosing aftermarket ceramic. They are an OEM supplier, and they make formulations that work very well. I'm sure there are other good ones as well, but I don't have the time or energy to experiment any longer.

With that said, the newer OEM FoST Ford pads are very good. I'll be using them again when it comes time for replacement.

If the rotors aren't grooved, and have no rust on them, I'll just install new pads. If they are grooved or rusted, I replace them. Gave up on turning rotors a while ago...too many issues with shops not turning them properly.
Thanks for your input. I've never had any issues with having rotors turned and I have been doing this whenever possible for 45 years. Some don't have enough thickness to allow it.
 
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Thanks for your input. I've never had any issues with having rotors turned and I have been doing this whenever possible for 45 years. Some don't have enough thickness to allow it.
If you have a good machine shop, you're lucky. The places by me don't ever change their cutter heads, and they don't leave a good finish. I've also had issues with the two rotor surfaces not being parallel, after they cut them.
 

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The only 2 times I've had rotors turned they were wrong. So when the time comes mine will just get pads as long as the rotors aren't too thin. No issues on any other vehicle I've owned
 
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