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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

So I'm looking into upgrading my audio system in my 2016 ST2. I don't really have a problem with the speakers except for the loudness but I'm thinking that's mainly because of the amp. I'd like to concentrate on the sub as it's very sad sounding. I think my budget is around $400-500 and this would hopefully include speakers as well but maybe not. With that budget in mind (also capable of spending more but would like to stay somewhere around my budget mark), I'm also not a huge audiophile but would just like some better sound quality.

What do you guys recommend for mostly edm? Also keep in mind that I don't really know much about audio. I will also be doing the installation by myself because why not learn something new (again).

My thoughts:
Speakers - Maybe Infinity primus, based on people's review it seems that they are better than stock for a very good price.
Sub - Heard I'd want to go 12inch for edm but I was kind of thinking 10 because I really do use all my trunk space and also don't need a 12 likely as I just want a little more bass. No need to wake the whole neighborhood.
Amp - not a clue...
Other stuff - even more not of a clue...


Thanks,
Juicyz
 

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$500 Budget -

Conventional Wisdom:

Infinity Kappa 60.11cs (2 ohm, increased loudness) - $244 (Crutchfield)
Stock Rear Speakers - $0
Kicker CompRT (2 ohm dual voice coil, wired in series for 4 ohm load) - $109
JVC KS-DR3005D - $170
Audio Control LC7i - $140

Total = $663

My door panels are starting to buzz a little with heavy bass so I would recommend adding some sound deadening to the stock door cards. I would also add some poly fill to the stock sub box to help the Kicker sub work a little better.

A more robust subwoofer and increased power will solve much of your problem with the stock system's output.

Alternative build -

Infinity Kappa 60.11 - $244
Stock Rear Speakers - $0
Stock Sony Amp - $0
SAS Bazooka Tube (100W) - $250

Total $495

I am not sure why Bazooka tubes are constantly overlooked. Installed correctly they work perfectly with the majority of popular music. Methinks you can use the high level outputs from the factory sub to control the output of the tube.

It's a simple solution, easy to install, has small power requirements (low current draw) and really does the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
$500 Budget -

Conventional Wisdom:

Infinity Kappa 60.11cs (2 ohm, increased loudness) - $244 (Crutchfield)
Stock Rear Speakers - $0
Kicker CompRT (2 ohm dual voice coil, wired in series for 4 ohm load) - $109
JVC KS-DR3005D - $170
Audio Control LC7i - $140

Total = $663

My door panels are starting to buzz a little with heavy bass so I would recommend adding some sound deadening to the stock door cards. I would also add some poly fill to the stock sub box to help the Kicker sub work a little better.

A more robust subwoofer and increased power will solve much of your problem with the stock system's output.

Alternative build -

Infinity Kappa 60.11 - $244
Stock Rear Speakers - $0
Stock Sony Amp - $0
SAS Bazooka Tube (100W) - $250

Total $495

I am not sure why Bazooka tubes are constantly overlooked. Installed correctly they work perfectly with the majority of popular music. Methinks you can use the high level outputs from the factory sub to control the output of the tube.

It's a simple solution, easy to install, has small power requirements (low current draw) and really does the job.
Im guessing by the kicker subwoofer price, you meant the 8in? Initially I was looking at the kappas but I figured I should budget more for the subwoofer as that seemed like the more expensive part of the system as I thought I would need a new box.
It seems like the JVC KS-DR3005D might be a little tricky to get my hands on. Amazon has 4 left or so but most websites are sold out/gone.

Thank you very much for your input.
 

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simple basic and complete upgrade.

problem with loudness, need more power. for a simple system why not go with a 5ch amp/ check out the pioneer GM-D9605
plenty of power for anything you want to add to it. and since your going to be adding an amp for the sub, why not get one that just cost a little bit more and can power everything.

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GM-D...d=1501225682&sr=1-1&keywords=Pioneer+GM-D9605


regardless of which amp you choose, I'd recommend at least this as an interface (most systems would benefit from a higher model but this could work as a bare minimum to pinch for a budget)

https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-Channel-Converter-AccuBASS-Subwoofer/dp/B00IIL0LW0


two sets of primus components would be a good speaker for a really good price.

https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Pri...4025&sr=1-1&keywords=infinity+primus+pr6500cs

one option that is not that much more but has a lot better sound would be somehting like the Pioneer TS-D series

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-D...8&qid=1501225788&sr=1-1&keywords=pioneer+TS-d


as far as a sub, yeah I'd probably choose a 10". sealed for best sound quality with the widest range of electronic music, unless your listening to something more like dub-step with a extremely low bass note, then a ported box will give you a lot more output, but usually in a narrower range and often are weaker in the upper bass range. there are a lot of options here, but depending on how but with out going too far over budget, you could actually get something nice. maybe something like a type S or R

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SWS10...d=1501224588&sr=1-2&keywords=alpine+type+s+10

or if you really wanted to keep the space down, could get aggressive and get something like an 8" L7. they can use extremely small boxes and dont require a lot of space.


you'd be surprised at how good of a system you could get by stretching the budget a bit. normally $500 or more can get you a good sub system alone. and getting a good sub system can easily throw off the balance and over power the OEM amp. a lot of people dont account for all the extra little things needed to make it all work (wire kits, connectors, accessories and maybe even a little sound deadening) spending a little bit more really opens up what you can end up with.

if I was doing it and tried to stick as close to that budget as possible,
pioneer 5ch amp - $210
2x Pioneer TS-d component speaker sets - $75 ea
LC2i - $70
Type R 10" (personally, for my taste it would be 12" and ported) $150
maybe another $100 or so for amp wiring and a sub box and what else you need gets you around $680 and would be a pleasure to listen to everyday.
 

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The JVC is a very popular amp it's the same as Kenwood 7005 I believe it's called.

Good power for the money, low noise floor. Little light on the sub output, features and cross-over settings, I would be considering ported sub/enclosure to help with the lack of sub bass power.

The Kicker is an 8 inch sub because you have a few options. You can use the stock enclosure, or you can say take up part of the foam section and build a box about twice the cubic feet of the stock system.

The sub can be used either way and not take up any trunk space. The ultimate prefab solution is the JL Audio stealth box for the Ford Focus. It's not cheap which is why many don't have it here but a few do.

The Focus ST being a hatchback it doesn't take much to get good output from. The only place an 8" sub would lack is playing with authority below 40 Hz, especially in a tiny box. But most popular music is above 40 Hz much of the time so there isn't a real concern there.

Also 8" subs are best for small boxes. There some great small box subs on the market particularly JL Audio but they come at a substantial cost.

Still not considering the SAS Bazooka Tube? If your main complaint is the lack of any real bass coming from the factory sub, which is also my main gripe about the Sync 3/Sony system. It will easily solve your problem of lack of serious bass.

They sound great/best in hatchbacks actually.

I keep threatening to throw my old 50 Watt Bazooka tube into the ST. If you want an affordable improvement to the overall sound of the Sony system this would be my first choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
simple basic and complete upgrade.

problem with loudness, need more power. for a simple system why not go with a 5ch amp/ check out the pioneer GM-D9605
plenty of power for anything you want to add to it. and since your going to be adding an amp for the sub, why not get one that just cost a little bit more and can power everything.

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GM-D...d=1501225682&sr=1-1&keywords=Pioneer+GM-D9605


regardless of which amp you choose, I'd recommend at least this as an interface (most systems would benefit from a higher model but this could work as a bare minimum to pinch for a budget)

https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-Channel-Converter-AccuBASS-Subwoofer/dp/B00IIL0LW0


two sets of primus components would be a good speaker for a really good price.

https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Pri...4025&sr=1-1&keywords=infinity+primus+pr6500cs

one option that is not that much more but has a lot better sound would be somehting like the Pioneer TS-D series

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-D...8&qid=1501225788&sr=1-1&keywords=pioneer+TS-d


as far as a sub, yeah I'd probably choose a 10". sealed for best sound quality with the widest range of electronic music, unless your listening to something more like dub-step with a extremely low bass note, then a ported box will give you a lot more output, but usually in a narrower range and often are weaker in the upper bass range. there are a lot of options here, but depending on how but with out going too far over budget, you could actually get something nice. maybe something like a type S or R

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SWS10...d=1501224588&sr=1-2&keywords=alpine+type+s+10

or if you really wanted to keep the space down, could get aggressive and get something like an 8" L7. they can use extremely small boxes and dont require a lot of space.


you'd be surprised at how good of a system you could get by stretching the budget a bit. normally $500 or more can get you a good sub system alone. and getting a good sub system can easily throw off the balance and over power the OEM amp. a lot of people dont account for all the extra little things needed to make it all work (wire kits, connectors, accessories and maybe even a little sound deadening) spending a little bit more really opens up what you can end up with.

if I was doing it and tried to stick as close to that budget as possible,
pioneer 5ch amp - $210
2x Pioneer TS-d component speaker sets - $75 ea
LC2i - $70
Type R 10" (personally, for my taste it would be 12" and ported) $150
maybe another $100 or so for amp wiring and a sub box and what else you need gets you around $680 and would be a pleasure to listen to everyday.
Yah it seems like I might do a little mix and match between your guys suggestions and see if I can shop around and find some good prices. Do you really think I could get a sub box that fits a 10in for $100? I was under the impression if I wanted to fit like stock, it would be more in the $200 range if I'm lucky.

Definitely will be going a LC5|6 or LC7 route as it will leave room for improvement if I ever decided I wanted to go all out. LC2 would get the job done but not all that much more money for something better.

I'm liking the amp suggestion though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The JVC is a very popular amp it's the same as Kenwood 7005 I believe it's called.

Good power for the money, low noise floor. Little light on the sub output, features and cross-over settings, I would be considering ported sub/enclosure to help with the lack of sub bass power.

The Kicker is an 8 inch sub because you have a few options. You can use the stock enclosure, or you can say take up part of the foam section and build a box about twice the cubic feet of the stock system.

The sub can be used either way and not take up any trunk space. The ultimate prefab solution is the JL Audio stealth box for the Ford Focus. It's not cheap which is why many don't have it here but a few do.

The Focus ST being a hatchback it doesn't take much to get good output from. The only place an 8" sub would lack is playing with authority below 40 Hz, especially in a tiny box. But most popular music is above 40 Hz much of the time so there isn't a real concern there.

Also 8" subs are best for small boxes. There some great small box subs on the market particularly JL Audio but they come at a substantial cost.

Still not considering the SAS Bazooka Tube? If your main complaint is the lack of any real bass coming from the factory sub, which is also my main gripe about the Sync 3/Sony system. It will easily solve your problem of lack of serious bass.

They sound great/best in hatchbacks actually.

I keep threatening to throw my old 50 Watt Bazooka tube into the ST. If you want an affordable improvement to the overall sound of the Sony system this would be my first choice.
Dont know if I could get over how the bazooka tube looks. I've honestly never heard or seen them either.
I really considered that JL stealth box... It's exactly what I would want. I thought about buying it and calling it a day and get an amp a little later.
Also looked at CP110LG-TW1-2 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Systems - MicroSub? - JL Audio. Cheaper than the stealth box and it should nicely slide into that corner. Haven't measured something like this out yet though.
 

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Dont know if I could get over how the bazooka tube looks. I've honestly never heard or seen them either.
I really considered that JL stealth box... It's exactly what I would want. I thought about buying it and calling it a day and get an amp a little later.
Also looked at CP110LG-TW1-2 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Systems - MicroSub? - JL Audio. Cheaper than the stealth box and it should nicely slide into that corner. Haven't measured something like this out yet though.
I like the Micro-Sub, especially the 8" unit. But I thought you wanted to say under $500? You buy the Micro and an amp and you are pretty close to $500.

There's no debate, Bass Tubes provide the best value for money. It will blend in nicely with the stock system and since the sub bass will be vastly increased what you once though was loud and you didn't get much help from the factory sub will immediate impress you about the tube, so much that you don't have to crank up the output of the tube, about 1/2 to 3/4 is plenty.

There some nice prefab systems out there, I like the Digital Designs Mini 8, that thing is crazy, but not self powered and its not cheap.

You'll find even if you do a complete system later you'll find that a Bazooka tube is hard to beat.

The main problem with the stock system is invisible bass, as most of it is coming from the doors, bass tube fixes that easily not sure why it's ignored/ridiculed/overlooked.
 
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I like the Micro-Sub, especially the 8" unit. But I thought you wanted to say under $500? You buy the Micro and an amp and you are pretty close to $500.

There's no debate, Bass Tubes provide the best value for money. It will blend in nicely with the stock system and since the sub bass will be vastly increased what you once though was loud and you didn't get much help from the factory sub will immediate impress you about the tube, so much that you don't have to crank up the output of the tube, about 1/2 to 3/4 is plenty.

There some nice prefab systems out there, I like the Digital Designs Mini 8, that thing is crazy, but not self powered and its not cheap.

You'll find even if you do a complete system later you'll find that a Bazooka tube is hard to beat.

The main problem with the stock system is invisible bass, as most of it is coming from the doors, bass tube fixes that easily not sure why it's ignored/ridiculed/overlooked.
If someone wanted to get the bazooka tube and leave all the other speakers/amp alone is it just a plug and play device? I've seen them before, but I know how picky the 2014 system is and I don't want to risk anything, but the bass is god awful.
 
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If someone wanted to get the bazooka tube and leave all the other speakers/amp alone is it just a plug and play device? I've seen them before, but I know how picky the 2014 system is and I don't want to risk anything, but the bass is god awful.
Yes you could. You could get the amplified one, and tap probably into the heated seats circuit in teh trunk, and amp output (rear speakers) into the LOC of the bazooka amp. Or get an unamplified one, and I bet you could just remove the factory sub and connect that in place of... It's not difficult at all, and well covered here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I like the Micro-Sub, especially the 8" unit. But I thought you wanted to say under $500? You buy the Micro and an amp and you are pretty close to $500.

There's no debate, Bass Tubes provide the best value for money. It will blend in nicely with the stock system and since the sub bass will be vastly increased what you once though was loud and you didn't get much help from the factory sub will immediate impress you about the tube, so much that you don't have to crank up the output of the tube, about 1/2 to 3/4 is plenty.

There some nice prefab systems out there, I like the Digital Designs Mini 8, that thing is crazy, but not self powered and its not cheap.

You'll find even if you do a complete system later you'll find that a Bazooka tube is hard to beat.

The main problem with the stock system is invisible bass, as most of it is coming from the doors, bass tube fixes that easily not sure why it's ignored/ridiculed/overlooked.
It would be nice to stay somewhere around 500 but I kinda knew that wasn't gonna happen. The two builds that you guys linked were around $650 already for a more complete system so my budget already kinda moved a bit more north. I'm willing to spend up to 1000 likely but I was hoping for $500ish so I could get a sway bar and springs as I haven't done a performance mod in a while.

I'm considering the bazooka tub but I think I would like to hear one first.
 

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Yes you could. You could get the amplified one, and tap probably into the heated seats circuit in teh trunk, and amp output (rear speakers) into the LOC of the bazooka amp. Or get an unamplified one, and I bet you could just remove the factory sub and connect that in place of... It's not difficult at all, and well covered here.
Basically, once I saw people claiming the 2014 has a really finicky system and some issues I immediately decided it was above my ability and lost it from my to-do list.


Buuuuttttttttt the stereo has been bothering me recently. Particularly the annoying moment where the bass is just becoming kinda nice..so you turn it up a little and the bass goes DOWN lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Basically, once I saw people claiming the 2014 has a really finicky system and some issues I immediately decided it was above my ability and lost it from my to-do list.


Buuuuttttttttt the stereo has been bothering me recently. Particularly the annoying moment where the bass is just becoming kinda nice..so you turn it up a little and the bass goes DOWN lol
I feel the exact same way... the bass is so underwhelming. I also figure if I'm already gonna change some thing with the audio I might as well do it all.
 
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If someone wanted to get the bazooka tube and leave all the other speakers/amp alone is it just a plug and play device? I've seen them before, but I know how picky the 2014 system is and I don't want to risk anything, but the bass is god awful.
Yes it's plug-n-play. The circuits will take the high wattage sub output without a problem. Use the stock sub output and use that as a signal source, that way you'll have control over it.
 

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Yes you could. You could get the amplified one, and tap probably into the heated seats circuit in teh trunk, and amp output (rear speakers) into the LOC of the bazooka amp. Or get an unamplified one, and I bet you could just remove the factory sub and connect that in place of... It's not difficult at all, and well covered here.
That is interesting I never thought about using the stock amp's sub output to power a passive tube. Even if it's half it's quoted RMS power (75 watts) it will still drive a Bazooka tube pretty well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
it still should at least sound a little better than the OEM sub, that enclosure is just too small!
Agreed. Even if I replaced the stock sub with a different 8in and used the same enclosure, I think it's just way too small to sound how I want it to sound. @djfourmoney Im leaning towards the bazooka tube now. I'm thinking kappas, one of the listed amps, lc7i, bazooka tube.
 

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Agreed. Even if I replaced the stock sub with a different 8in and used the same enclosure, I think it's just way too small to sound how I want it to sound. @djfourmoney Im leaning towards the bazooka tube now. I'm thinking kappas, one of the listed amps, lc7i, bazooka tube.
I had typed out a different response but I'll just cut to the chase.

Get either 100 watt Tube or 250 watt (160 watts with one tube) Tube.

Based on my experience it's best to use the signal from the stock amp as your source. The level can be controlled via the Sync 3 head unit, just like the stock sub box.

If you get the 250 watt model you get an adjustable crossover. The advantage of that especially if you get the remote control for it is that you can fix some minor response problems with the level control and crossover.

Like I said best bang for the buck, there's no way to hose the install, just follow the directions in the manual, IE 2-4 inches from the corner of the hatch, which side doesn't matter. Current draw is low with the 50-100 watt models, you can tap off the harness in the car.

For the 250 watt you will have to run a wire up to the battery.

Some have hosed the install or have unrealistic expectations so they are the ones leaving less than 4 star reviews. I don't know anybody that been disappointed with these things. Like I said why they are overlooked/ridiculed makes no sense.

Install this first and then see how the system sounds.
 
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it still should at least sound a little better than the OEM sub, that enclosure is just too small!
True it should be about the same as a 50 watt tube based on the fact that the factory sub is dual voice coil and the amp is about 22 watts a channel if used with a dvc version of the passive Bazooka.

I found my own 50 watt to be adequate though I blew up the woofer trying to twist the knob more. So based on that I recommend at least the 100 watt tube. For 100 watts and only one 8 inch sub it's nice and all I did was cross it over at 75 Hz and tweak the EQ in my JVC head unit.

Listening to Teddy Douglas' Re-Edit of Gypsy Woman exposes the heavy 808 in that song that is sort of covered up by some of the other drums/effects in it. The bass tube shines on stuff like that.

That's why I said if you listen to anything "normal" it will sound great. Playing other types of music will expose the other speakers. Some review said it couldn't handle trap, which is ridiculous the stock system handles it, it's just not loud.

A ported enclosure will give you peaks in the response where you want it. The downside is that on some music that isn't heavily EQ'ed or has deep bass will sound a bit overbearing. I mean you have to really look for songs that you need to adjust something.

Some songs that don't have heavy 808 that I like to use are "Addicted To Love" by Robert Palmer and almost anything on the Power Station digital remaster. Yeah Robert Palmer is the common denominator...

If you have a really good system with lots of power, you will feel every strike of the kick drum. If you have an awesome system Robert Palmer will mentally appear on your dash.
 

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That is interesting I never thought about using the stock amp's sub output to power a passive tube. Even if it's half it's quoted RMS power (75 watts) it will still drive a Bazooka tube pretty well.
Total Band-aid and would NOT have been my first choice. But it would work and probably sound better than stock.
 
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