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Discussion Starter #1
Slave crapped out today. In my search for a Non- plastic OEM replacement, i found both LUK and ACT offer ones that are pictured as aluminum units but have a ford stamp on them, obviously making them reboxed ford units. Does anyone know if or when the ford unit part number DV6Z-7A508-A has been officially updated to an aluminum unit? All of the photos of the ford unit show it being plastic.
 

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It's myself understanding that while this one is stamped with Ford OE in a cast aluminum I can't say if it would be considered stronger than the factory polymer unit. Are the factory units failing at the body of the unit itself?

J
 

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Discussion Starter #3
After searching here it just appears that they're a moderate failure rate item. I was hoping someone who's purchased one of the three could chime in. I cant for sure say the failure is due to them being plastic but I'm sure it doesn't help and I'd rather have the peace of mind of having an aluminum one.

My point is, since all three options are going to be a ford part, i don't want to order the luk or act and have it show up as a plastic unit. That website is the one i found with a good picture of the ACT as well as the description that it is actually a ford part. Rockauto has a good pic of the LUK unit (but is out of stock) and there are several places throughout the web that show the actual part of the Ford unit on their listings, which are all shown as plastic.
 

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Well now you've got me curious about it as well. It's an interesting piece of hardware that's often overlooked, until it fails that is.

We ask a lot of this little thing. Okay little buddy you need to bench press this here flying metal wheel of death, in the dark, under extreme conditions, and Oh yeah before I forget, it's going to be traveling several thousand rpms in the process.

:ROFLMAO:

What could go wrong!?!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did your slave crap out before your clutch?
Yeah. 70,000 miles. The slave actually jammed fully extended (so clutch was disengaged) and the pedal was locked all the way up top (since the slave was at its mechanical limits of travel). When i got home from work to diagnose further, i pushed the pedal and thats when it went to the floor and fluid was running out of the bell housing. I'm HOPING that no fluid got on the clutch when the engine was running... thats an expensive clutch and flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
@Duece McCracken any input?

Im pulling the trans tomorrow to see whether or not i need a clutch too due to contamination before i order parts. Hoping to find some input on the matter before i order.
 

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@Duece McCracken any input?

Im pulling the trans tomorrow to see whether or not i need a clutch too due to contamination before i order parts. Hoping to find some input on the matter before i order.
Oh hey man!

I just run OEM. I swap them if I pull the trans. Havnt had any issues with slaves thankfully. Blew two masters though, lmao.

Some clutches have a modified release bearing, i think ACT is one of them. It pushes a bit deeper for their clutches.

Not sure if Ford did any revisions to their slave setup over time. That could be a point of interest.

Personally, I still feel that the OEM is a good unit, and would just replace it with another one.

If your clutch is contaminated, what clutch would you whip in there?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If your clutch is contaminated, what clutch would you whip in there?
I'd just continue to use factory (ford or Luk). It seems like theyre a pretty robust unit. I'd also prefer to contine to use a dual mass flywheel for sound and drivability. I love the way the stock setup feels, and the fact that it can hold so much torque. Remember this is my daily driver, i have the mustang to scratch the go-fast itch.

As far as slave cylinders, mine may have crapped out due to a bad master i recently replaced. The master was binding internally and when i removed it, i noticed the fluid dripping out of it was black. So maybe whatever was coming apart inside the master and contaminated the fluid caused the slave failure, not entirely sure.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Well, looks like the throwout bearing blew out (with no prior noise or grinding) and that likely caused the failure.

Clutch doesnt look that great either. Looks like its had an easy life (no severe hotspots) but the disk has quite a bit of wear.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
MY GOD they are proud of clutch parts for these cars! Stock and aftermarket!

For future reference though, the factory pressure plate and clutch disk (sold as one part number) is discontinued already, but still floating around on shelves at the point of me writing this.

Also, single mass flywheels are about the same price as the factory dual mass, which is absurd. Im used to being able to "cheap out" on a steel SMF in place of the factory DMF.

Here are the part numbers:
PP/ clutch disk DV6Z7B546A

Flywheel CV6Z-6477-A

Slave cylinder DV6Z-7A508-A
 

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For future reference though, the factory pressure plate and clutch disk (sold as one part number) is discontinued already, but still floating around on shelves at the point of me writing this.
Well they didn't waste anytime scraping that part number didn't they?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well they didn't waste anytime scraping that part number didn't they?
Yeah I'm kind of surprised by that myself. I thought all auto manufacturers were legally obligated to make parts for their cars for 10 years after production.
 

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Yeah I'm kind of surprised by that myself. I thought all auto manufacturers were legally obligated to make parts for their cars for 10 years after production.
One of the reasons this will probably be my last ford. While working for them I was shocked at how quickly they would stop making parts for cars that weren't that old. I don't recall the exact part but it was something that was a fairly common part on a 07 mustang that I couldn't get for the customer, had to go aftermarket or used.

I'm back at honda now and can get almost any part for 20+ year old hondas OEM. That being said honda parts are considerably more expensive
 
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