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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This project has been In the making for about 2 months now. First off I want to say thanks to Silver_shooter, Kevin, and most of all ST3 4 ME! Help from them was necessary for me to get this install done, as It is was my first time doing one. Overall The install went really smooth, and only took me about 4 hours! I hope this thread can help those out there looking to do their own DIY Intercooler. I went with the GReddy core for a few reasons;
1) an Intercooler is the best performance mod for the ST
2) I always wanted a GReddy part since the first Fast and Furious movie......
3) The core size, and welded on bung locations seemed ideal for mounting.
4) I wanted something a little more expensive & different then the godspeed or CRX, but didnt want to spend a whole lot more then those options
5) because ST3 4 ME suggested I would be the first one to ever install it on a ST (that we know of) He originally came up with the idea to do it!

Parts List:
-GReddy Universal core (1) 228$
Universal GReddy LS Spec Intercooler Type31

Greddy Universal Intercooler Type 31 LS Spec with 60mm Endtanks | eBay

-2.5" T-bolt clamps (4) 12.59$
X8 2 5" Stainless T Bolt Clamp Turbo Down Pipe Intake | eBay
* I bought the 8 pack because you should always have some extras incase

-2.5" cast 90* elbow (1) 19.95$
Cxracing 2 5" Cast Aluminum Elbow 90 Degree Pipe Turbo Intercooler Universal | eBay

-2.5" ATP Cast 90* elbow w/ sensor mount (1) 39.00$
Separate Elbow from ATP FMIC Kit with sensor mount welded : atpturbo.com

-2.5" ATP 3 ply silicone couplers (2) 12.00$
Straight Connector 2.50" ID - Turbo Silicone : atpturbo.com
*ATP shipping-5.99$

-Blue (removable) Loc-tite 5$
-Grey RTV Silicone gasket maker 5$
-white plumbers tape 1$
- 1/4" X 1" X 4' aluminum bar (Can be found at Lowes / Home Depot) 12$


Total cost was 340.53$ give or take a dollar or two :money:

First thing to do was removing the front bumper. This was way easier then I expected! You need to remove 3 T30 screws in both wheel wells (turn wheels to one side then other to make room) , remove the undertray, and 4 more T30's where the undertray and wheel wells come together.

Next I would suggest removing the headlights along with 2 more screws attaching the front bumper to the frame (similar screw next to the headlamp screw)
* notice in pictures I did not do this, but I'm suggesting it because the bumper comes off way easier when you can access the clips that hold it in place, I broke one by yanking on it...

Remove the 4 plastic retainer clips on the front center top of the bumper, these are in front of the hood release which you also will need to disconnect and set aside, pull off the bumper and unplug the fog lights.

Overall removing the front bumper took me about 15 minutes
Now....jack it up, or Get it up on ramps!! (not needed to do it.....but it makes things so much easier)

next you will need to remove the rubbery air guide, Styrofoam crash beam piece, AGS system, the map sensor, and finally the stock intercooler can come out!

photo 4.JPG

* the Center to Center measurement of the stock IC pipes is 33.75" my GReddy core with the elbows was 35.5" I think that is about the max you can go without having to modify the radiator support brackets. It was a tight squeeze and It really helped to have my friend there to help me smush it all in. (that's his newly tuned 13' Charger in the next bay)

After connecting the elbows to the stock pipes I supported it from underneath and began to mock up the bottom brackets

*I had to re-use the stock worm clamps to connect my elbow couplers to the stock piping, the t-bolt clamps would not fit, I will eventually order some 3" clamps and hopefully that will work. The pipes are in there really tight, and after 2 weeks of driving I have had no problems (running fsw 93 stg II)

Using the 1/4" X 1 plate (approx 5" each) you can mark the holes for the I/C bungs and where your hole will meet the mounting location on the frame.
* the frame mounting spot is already drilled out and in a perfect location for this.

photo 5.JPG

photo 4(1).JPG

I used the stock bolts/washer/lock washer that came with the I/C to attach it to the bracket, and on the frame side I used (2) 1/4-20 X 3/4" hex head bolts, (2) 1/4" washers, (2) 1/4-20 locking nuts

* Its tough to tighten down the frame-bracket bolts, you will need an open end wrench with a flexible head to be able to get it tightened.

Next you need to mount the bracket from the top bung to the crash beam. Since the bottom brackets now hold the intercooler in the spot its going to be you can mock up where you will need to drill through the crash beam

I was lucky enough to find a bracket that was absolutely perfect for this, but you guys can make one just by bending some of the 1/4" X 1" X 4' bar

* make sure to loc-tite all of the nuts and bolts!!

photo 1.JPG
photo 2.JPG

Getting the hole in the crash beam took about 10 minutes of continuous drilling using a Dewalt titanium bit (my friend suffered through all of it for me, now that's good help!) I repaid him with a diablo tuner install !:popped out:

Almost done! Now to mount the map sensor in the ATP elbow. A lot of others doing the DIY intercoolers have also noticed that the stock map sensor o-ring does not fit into the ATP sensor hole tightly. *you cannot just place it in there anyways...It will leak*.


"map sensor?!" "YUUUP"

I wrapped the bottom part of the sensor in plumbers tape (good from -212*F-500*F under pressure or in vacuum)

read this if you want to know more on why I used plumbers tape to make a better seal instead of searching down the right size o-ring.
Temp. rating on teflon tape? - Yahoo Answers

IMG_1219.jpg

before mounting it in the elbow I also used grey RTV gasket maker to make another seal on the flange.

I wanted to make sure everything was good to go so I pulled it off the ramps and checked that the I/C was centered and level

IMG_1220.JPG

Reinstall the bumper, etc.... and now you're good to go Stage II!! I also suggest prior to install you get a tune set up from Randy @ FSWerks!

IMG_1218.JPG

During the whole process I wanted to do something to make sure my I/C can be seen all the time! so I removed the black center grill insert on the bumper and plasti-dipped the center vertical pieces black.

photo 3.JPG photo 5(1).JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
The final result!

final2.JPG

final3.JPG

final1.JPG

If you have any questions feel free to ask away! One of the main reasons for doing this GReddy install was to help out all of you ST's out there to get an intercooler setup for way less then a kit from a vendor. I was not as specific with tools and ways of doing things because If you're planning on doing a DIY like this you should already know what/how things should be done.


UPDATE 4/9/2014

Now that the weather has cleared up in Michigan and I got my eagle f1's put on I finally got some time to do some datalogging.
From what ive seen the GReddy core isnt as efficient as the godspeed or CXR since im seeing charge air temps of 40* and up from ambient temp on some occasions, maybe someone could comment on this. From what ive researched those cores are staying within 10* of ambient even on long pulls. here are some datalogs on a 54*F day.

**Randy/FSwerks 93oct stage 2 tune**

View attachment stop-5th burkhart pull.csv.zip
View attachment 4-5 eway.csv.zip
View attachment 4th gear pull.csv.zip

Now I'm wondering if it is safe to run the stage 2 tune with these climbing charge temps, even though there is almost no heatsoak, and charge temps go back to ambient ~ 8-15 seconds after pull depending on flow. hopefully my car is safe, OAR has stayed at -1.00 and I checked it before making any pulls, the negative correction on cyl4 worries me.... should it?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Nice write up, I've been very much considering a DIY IC myself so this is worth its weight in gold, only comment I have is why wait until the bumper is back on to plasti-dip?
thanks, and it was because I wasn't sure what would look better dipping black or just leave them silver. So I put on the bumper and realized they looked like crap silver and they needed to be dipped haha
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just curious been rrunning the atp sensor bung no extra on the oring and no leaks hits target boost everythime
I have read of people not having a leak problem with doing what you did, bad luck for me mine certainly was leaking!
 

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Good write up and DIY project. Does your car go up on those ramps with no issues? Doesn't look like you have suspension work and I am looking for some cheap ramps that wont hit the bumper. Thanks and nice job.
 

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Nice job my man!

As far as a leaking MAP, the Teflon tape seems to be a good idea, or use thermostat gasket paper. I've built 3 kits so far with no leaks and I pressure tested mine to 30psi.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Good write up and DIY project. Does your car go up on those ramps with no issues? Doesn't look like you have suspension work and I am looking for some cheap ramps that wont hit the bumper. Thanks and nice job.
yup no suspension mods at all, I had about a 1/4" of clearance from the ramps! had to take it slow but no issues at all. Id tell you what ramps they are but I dont have a clue and they're my supervisors, no stickers on them and old as hell
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Nice job my man!

As far as a leaking MAP, the Teflon tape seems to be a good idea, or use thermostat gasket paper. I've built 3 kits so far with no leaks and I pressure tested mine to 30psi.
Thanks Silver! I do have a boost leak testing fitting I made but I havent done it yet...1) I havent leak tested before 2)ST3 mentioned it may not be possible on our cars?

I hit all the normal boost pressures for my tune right away with no problems. I think that speaks for itself?? maybe you and ST3 could comment on this.
 

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yup no suspension mods at all, I had about a 1/4" of clearance from the ramps! had to take it slow but no issues at all. Id tell you what ramps they are but I dont have a clue and they're my supervisors, no stickers on them and old as hell
Cool thanks, the ones I was considering don't look quite that steep so I think I'll be good.
 

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Cool thanks, the ones I was considering don't look quite that steep so I think I'll be good.
I think my supervisor took them home with him already, but if not ill get some dimensions/ pics for you. they will probably show up around the shop sooner or later again...I will try and get back to you with some info.
 

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Thanks Silver! I do have a boost leak testing fitting I made but I havent done it yet...1) I havent leak tested before 2)ST3 mentioned it may not be possible on our cars?

I hit all the normal boost pressures for my tune right away with no problems. I think that speaks for itself?? maybe you and ST3 could comment on this.
I bench tested just the intercooler to check the welds and MAP. You can do a test on the car but it doesn't hold the pressure, so you have to keep the compressor on and use the regulator to hold the psi. It's easy, just a few rules to follow.

Pull off the intake and connect the air fitting directly to the compressor inlet, not the intake pipe. Plastic explodes!

Open the regulator so there is no pressure in the line before you connect the line to the car. Then, slowly adjust the regulator up until you get to 20 psi or so. That's plenty of pressure for a leak test.

Be careful because a hose popping off under pressure can hurt.

You'll hear air leaking from various spots (PVC,etc), even through the exhaust if the cams stopped in the right place. Use your ear and some soapy water around all of your ic piping from the turbo to the throttle body.

The only leak I had was at the plastic reducer going into the throttle body hose. I never had that off, so I assume it was leaking from the factory?



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