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2015 Focus ST3 Tuxedo Black - FRPP Tune
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone,

My car has started to throw an Check Engine Light, codes P2096 and P219A. This unfortunately happened while I was out of state visiting family over the holidays and while I preferred to get the problem fixed before hitting the road to return, the dealership in my family's area was unable to help in time before I had to return home for work. The car runs and drives fine for the most part and it survived the journey. The only thing I can complain about how the car runs is that there seems to be a rhythmic 50 RPM dip at idle bouncing between 720 and 770 RPM. I do not remember my car behaving like this in the past.

Now, I've done a fair amount of research on these two codes and honestly the information I found hasn't really helped. It seems that it can be almost anything from a vacuum leak, O2 sensor, evap purge valve, etc. causing the issue. Maybe just bad gas I got in West Virginia? Who knows? I've tried clearing the codes but they came back Here's my favorite part. My state requires a yearly inspection. Wouldn't you know it, my inspection and registration are due at the end of the month... So I had to take it to the dealer.

My car has 60,000 miles on it. While it is not bone stock, it's pretty close. Here are the following modifications I've made:
  • RS Air Box
  • AEM DryFlow filter
  • Ford Performance Calibration (M-14204-FSTA) including the supplied spark plugs and always using 93 Octane.
That's it. I've had the RS Air Box and filter installed since I've owned the car. The tune has been flashed since March or April. I've had no issues until now.

The dealership technician concluded that the Evap Purge Valve was stuck open and needed to be replaced. Mind you I had it replaced nearly two years prior due to a TSB for Gas Tank Deformation (I'm sure many of you are aware of this). Angrily, I approved the repair and $400 later the part was replaced (BV6Z-9D289-E) with the codes cleared. That was the only part replaced and the price included parts, labor, and a $34 misc charge (??). I met up with a friend that weekend, who lives 140 miles away. Wouldn't you know it, when cruising on the highway to come back home, the light came back on. Same codes.

I reached out to the dealership again and I brought the car back Monday morning. After about two minutes, a service technician brought me to my car in the service garage and tried to explain to me what he was seeing and why they were all so confused. The short version is the following:
  • Long Term Fuel Trim, at idle, was 11-12%. According to the tech, anything >10 or <-10 will throw an engine light
  • Short Term Fuel Trim at idle stays around 0% for the most part.
  • However, during the drive, both long and short fuel trim look fine. It's only when coming to a stop or idling that the Fuel trims look off.
  • They replaced the Low Side Fuel Pressure Sensor to see if it would help. He said it's a pain point on ecoboost motors and was worth replacing.
The technician was very down to earth, very courteous, and professional. He tried to explain to me that it could be the RS Air Box, or a dirty intake filter and recommended that I take it home and clean the filter, as it's reusable. This was all done free of charge, so I left. Since the visit I've done the following things to try to rectify the issue myself:
  • Properly cleaned the air filter and let it fully dry.
  • Pulled the negative cable off the battery and let it sit for 15 minutes before re-installing.
The car fired right up, and after idling down, idled at 900+ RPM, with a LTFT of 9.4%. I let the car idle for 15 minutes before taking it for a short drive. After the drive, approximately 9 miles of driving from light to light, I noticed that idle was now back to the same 720-770 RPM bouncing behavior, and LTFT was at 10.2% Now I'm sure the car could use a longer drive, but I'm starting to become a bit impatient, as it seems like the cause of the issue could be nearly endless and the Ford Dealership doesn't know what to do. The only other thing I can think of at this point without blindly throwing more money at the car is to try re-flashing the Ford Performance tune. Otherwise, it's back to the dealership.

So my questions are simply:
  1. Has anyone experienced this issue or something similar before?
  2. Is there anything else I can check that might help me drill down on the issue? I have an Ancel AD310 OB2 Reader that gives me a fair amount of live data, but I don't think I can log.
Any help is much appreciated! -- And sorry for the long post, but I feel that a lot of this information is relevant to working towards a solution.
 

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2017 Kona Blue ST1
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Working with some others dealing with a similar situation. Could you monitor your MAP sensor output and Voltage?

KOEO (key on engine off)
KOER (key on engine running) @ idle, cruise & full boost?

Thanks
J
 

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2015 Focus ST3 Tuxedo Black - FRPP Tune
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Working with some others dealing with a similar situation. Could you monitor your MAP sensor output and Voltage?

KOEO (key on engine off)
KOER (key on engine running) @ idle, cruise & full boost?

Thanks
J
My reader only reads the MAP Sensor in kPa or inHq. I've converted the values it recorded to PSI. On top of that it does not read MAP sensor voltage and it seems to have a maximum MAP sensor pressure reading of 255 kPa, which I achieved at full boost. When I set it to inHg, it maxed out at 75.3, which is 255 kPa. So it looks like the reader basically just takes the kPa value and converts it... If you have any recommendations on a better tool for the job, I can try to snag one on Amazon and have it here in a day or so. I live close to a Amazon warehouse.

Anyways, here's what I recorded:

ConditionPSI
KOEO14.5
Idle (Cold)5.1
Idle (Fully Warmed Up)4.6
Coasting in 6th Gear (no throttle, slightly down hill)2.9
Cruising at 45 MPH (~13% throttle)7.3-9.4 (depending on terrain)
Cruising at 70 MPH (Cruise Control, relatively flat highway)10.9
Full Boost (3rd and 4th gear pull)36.9

For the record I made sure to let the car fully warm up first on a regular drive before grabbing the numbers. If you need me to grab a better tool, let me know. And if you need any other information from me, feel free to reach out. Much appreciated!

EDIT:

I also found another comment of yours from two months ago and had done what you explained. Both sensors (BARO and MAP) read the same in the KOEO condition. My reader does not display the TIP value.
 

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2017 Kona Blue ST1
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Are you currently running a factory downpipe with a catalytic converter?

Monitor the front Wideband oxygen sensor and the rear narrow band. You could be dealing with a damaged or clogged catalyst.

The front Wideband is a major key to proper operation of your engine. You could have left the original Readings for the sensor and I understand all three measurements. (But thank you for doing so for the ease of others to follow along)

The Ford performance calibration has been known to be a bit aggressive. The factory intercooler and downpipe are a major restriction and will cause excessive heat to be generated even with a factory calibration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Are you currently running a factory downpipe with a catalytic converter?

Monitor the front Wideband oxygen sensor and the rear narrow band. You could be dealing with a damaged or clogged catalyst.

The front Wideband is a major key to proper operation of your engine. You could have left the original Readings for the sensor and I understand all three measurements. (But thank you for doing so for the ease of others to follow along)

The Ford performance calibration has been known to be a bit aggressive. The factory intercooler and downpipe are a major restriction and will cause excessive heat to be generated even with a factory calibration.
Yep, factory downpipe and catalytic converter. Literally all I've done to this car is that air box and the FRPP Calibration Kit.
I think I need a better tool for monitoring the O2 sensors. I can only see what looks like two, "O2S11" and "O2B1S2".

O2S11 is measured in milliamps, which, I'm not entirely sure is helpful, but it seems to hit 2.4-2.6 mA when coasting in 3rd or 4th, while dipping into negative values near 0 when idling and when under acceleration, getting closer to 0 under boost.

O2B1S2 stays between 0 and 1 under all conditions.

Catalytic converter temps appear to be in check, cooling off quickly when idling or coasting, but staying within safe temperatures (1200-1600°F as far as I know) under boost. I only took it for a short drive as it's getting late so I only did a 3rd or 4th gear pull a few times but not in rapid succession.

EDIT: Attached photos but they're waiting approval...
 

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Super Moderator
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The majority of us here use Cobb accessports to tune and monitor our vehicles. Unfortunately that really isn't an option for you.

I'm attaching a document to read that will help to explain your Wideband for now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The majority of us here use Cobb accessports to tune and monitor our vehicles. Unfortunately that really isn't an option for you.

I'm attaching a document to read that will help to explain your Wideband for now.
Thanks for the additional info!

Good news, I passed inspection today after checking I/M Readiness and seeing that all sensors were ok since I last cleared the DTCs. So that's a ton of pressure off. CEL hasn't come back on yet but I've only put about 85 miles on the car since I pulled the battery.

Additionally, I got a much better OBD2 adapter in the mail today that's capable of reading a lot more sensors from the car. It's probably not accessport levels, but it's better than the dinky thing I was using before. If there are some sensors and readings you'd like for me to log on a drive, I can do that tomorrow. Just specify which ones and what kind of drive I should go on, if needed.
 

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The FRPP software on your computer where you loaded the tune from has a KOEO test you could try.

You could also download the Torquepro app and get a BT OBD2 dongle like OBDLink MX
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The FRPP software on your computer where you loaded the tune from has a KOEO test you could try.

You could also download the Torquepro app and get a BT OBD2 dongle like OBDLink MX
Yep! I got a solid BT OBD2 adapter. Torque Pro wasn't doing it for me, didn't pick up as many sensors as this other app I found called Car Scanner. There's an option to enable extra PIDs and now I have 140 or so sensors to look at. I guess I'll take the car for a drive tomorrow and log data points like:
  • Speed
  • RPM
  • AFR
  • LTFT
  • STFT
  • Baro
  • MAP
  • All Oxygen Sensor readings
And I'll report back. @SSgtjrobertson if you think I should log anything else, let me know.
 

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Fuel pressure
Boost pressure
Off the top of my head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Fuel pressure
Boost pressure
Off the top of my head.
Took a 10 minute detour after running some errands today to grab some logs. Turns out that though I can monitor a ton of sensors and values on the car, the apps I've tried (Car Scanner Premium and TorquePro) can't log ALL of the ones that I wanted to log. That being said, I could grab most that I listed before.

Here's a .CSV of the raw data and an Excel Sheet of the pertinent data and line graphs put together to make the data a bit more legible:
CSV file
Excel Sheet with Graphs

I should mention that since having cleaned my air filter and resetting the computer, there are no pending codes and no CEL. I've also noticed in the data I attached above that my long term fuel trim now rests below 10. So I'm not sure if I'm really having an issue anymore, but maybe you'd like to take a look at the data anyways if you're curious or just want to make sure.

Hopefully this information is helpful to others in the future as well. And, of course, thanks for all of your help.
 

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Yeah nothing really looks out of place to me.
Glad things are settling down for you.

J
 
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I noticed an EVAP Purge sensor in the scroll down monitor on TQ. It was reading from -1,554 Pa to -1,777 Pa while cruising along.

Does this sound about right?

387782
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I noticed an EVAP Purge sensor in the scroll down monitor on TQ. It was reading from -1,554 Pa to -1,777 Pa while cruising along.

Does this sound about right?
Nope. My readings go all over the place, it seems to depend on engine load or throttle position. It definitely doesn't hover around -1 like yours does.
 
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