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Great...a new way to commit fraud.... Thanks for sharing

Blown up my motor on Tune A...flash back to Tune B, and take to dealer...
They can see the names of the strategies flashed. While it may get around the flash count being changed, that's all. Not something I'd advocate doing at all. If you have the money to spend almost $1,000 on tunes, you have the money to fix the car and take responsibility for modding.
 

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Great...a new way to commit fraud.... Thanks for sharing

Blown up my motor on Tune A...flash back to Tune B, and take to dealer...
Nearly every other post speaks about flashing back to stock or removing mods before taking the car back to the dealer to hide the previous tune/mods; yet you choose mine to make a statement about fraud? I do not advocate fraud, nor do I commit fraud. You, sir, do not know me. Because I value my warranty and will not commit fraud, I choose to go the FRPP route. I was merely (perhaps mistakenly) pointing something out and for that I apologize. Perhaps you could take the time to respond to all of the other fraud encouraging threads/posts as well.

They can see the names of the strategies flashed. While it may get around the flash count being changed, that's all. Not something I'd advocate doing at all. If you have the money to spend almost $1,000 on tunes, you have the money to fix the car and take responsibility for modding.
I was not advocating this strategy and perhaps I should not have posted. I think you make an excellent point of having the $$$ for tunes and mods and then having the funds to pay for anything that breaks. I wholeheartedly agree.
 

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Nearly every other post speaks about flashing back to stock or removing mods before taking the car back to the dealer to hide the previous tune/mods; yet you choose mine to make a statement about fraud? I do not advocate fraud, nor do I commit fraud. You, sir, do not know me. Because I value my warranty and will not commit fraud, I choose to go the FRPP route. I was merely (perhaps mistakenly) pointing something out and for that I apologize. Perhaps you could take the time to respond to all of the other fraud encouraging threads/posts as well.
And perhaps I will respond to everyone. I certainly have in the past.

Thanks for clearing that up.
 

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They can see the names of the strategies flashed. While it may get around the flash count being changed, that's all. Not something I'd advocate doing at all. If you have the money to spend almost $1,000 on tunes, you have the money to fix the car and take responsibility for modding.
Having $1000 for tunes and $8000 for a motor is a whole different bracket in itself. But for a lot of people removing mods isn't about taking responsibility, it's about ford not being fair and voiding warranties regardless of the reasons.

My dealer gave me **** over my boomba RMM. They wouldn't touch the car and actually told me to remove it if I wanted them to look at it. Imagine if I had other parts on the car and a defect caused and issue, it would have been a nightmare.


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H

My dealer gave me **** over my boomba RMM. They wouldn't touch the car and actually told me to remove it if I wanted them to look at it. Imagine if I had other parts on the car and a defect caused and issue, it would have been a nightmare.
That doesn't seem fair at all.


Not to push this thread into a warranty thread, lets stay on topic please. My fault, i know, but I thought it should point out that flashing from another tune, then back to FRRP after a engine malfunction is NOT something you should consider.
 

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Not to put salt into an opened wound, but I got my FRPP tune dynoed today and did not see the same decrease you saw or even the dips that the other guys had. I would try to continue to press this if not with the dealer then with a tuner who can look to see why it's not working as intended. The calibration is good for me and hopefully will get worked out for you as well!

Here is the crude pic of my pulls (will get the winpep files hopefully by Monday)



Ignore the green run...was heat soaked as a back to back pull.

More on my session here:
http://www.focusst.org/forum/showpost.php?p=371292

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Not to put salt into an opened wound, but I got my FRPP tune dynoed today and did not see the same decrease you saw or even the dips that the other guys had. I would try to continue to press this if not with the dealer then with a tuner who can look to see why it's not working as intended. The calibration is good for me and hopefully will get worked out for you as well!


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Post the sheet if you can
 

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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
Not to put salt into an opened wound, but I got my FRPP tune dynoed today and did not see the same decrease you saw or even the dips that the other guys had. I would try to continue to press this if not with the dealer then with a tuner who can look to see why it's not working as intended. The calibration is good for me and hopefully will get worked out for you as well!

Here is the crude pic of my pulls (will get the winpep files hopefully by Monday)



Ignore the green run...was heat soaked as a back to back pull.

More on my session here:
FRPP Tune Dyno Results (91 octane) - Page 12

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Which exhaust are you using or any other mods aside from the FRPP package?
 

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Stock except for tune and plugs. Got the kit with the intake but didn't put that on yet incase I decided not to keep the FRPP tune.
Well you can still put the intake and then tune the car with another tune or if you are going to keep it stock tune a better intake should still help some. You already payed for it, unless you can get the $ back.
 

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Stock except for tune and plugs. Got the kit with the intake but didn't put that on yet incase I decided not to keep the FRPP tune.


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Are you interested in selling the tube?!

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Dang lol, ok. Let me know if ever decide to part with it ;)
 

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Which exhaust are you using or any other mods aside from the FRPP package?
Sovski, have you tried enabling the octane adjust in the ProCal yet:


I have read a few of the install sheets for the ProCal and they make one of two notes on this setting. Either it states if you have audible knock then set to Yes or if you are running 91 octane then set to Yes. This should initiate a reprogram sequence once you select "save changes".

If you are running 91 or maybe even potentially a bad run of 93 then this setting could potentially make a difference. May even be something you could feel through a "butt dyno".


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Discussion Starter · #175 ·
Hmm I haven't tried this yet thanks for the heads up. I'm running 92 Octane. I do get this weird idle sound though.... It's like a change in the pressure/sound coming out of the exhaust, almost as if the car is struggling to idle properly. When I watch the Revs though they stay solid at 750 rpm. I'll try the octane adjust and report back.
 

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Low end gains (where it matters in 95% of driving) far outweighs and top end loses in my book.

You need to consider AREA under curve rather than just peak values.
I just dyno'd mine on thursday and didn't see these issues so I don't think there should be any losses with this tune.


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Discussion Starter · #178 · (Edited)
Low end gains (where it matters in 95% of driving) far outweighs and top end loses in my book.

You need to consider AREA under curve rather than just peak values.
Area under the curve doesn't matter if the car drives like shi*. Again, top end power loss is not the intended goal of tuning a vehicle... In my opinion, the FRPP tune is not safe (pushes 25 psi), nor does it deliver power effectively. A spike in torque that quickly tapers off and a loss in top end power is not what I would call a good tune. This wasn't apparent to me until I drove with the FRPP tune first-hand. I prefer the car to be balanced and smooth in its power delivery. I'll be getting a COBB Accessport shortly -- it's what I should have done in the first place.
 

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I wonder if another ecoboost vehicle has a larger OE intercooler that may be compatible? Like the Fusion or Escape.
It seems like I read somewhere on here that the 2.0 ecoboost escape had a better intercooler than our ST. Let me see if I can find it!
 

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Area under the curve doesn't matter if the car drives like shi*. Again, top end power loss is not the intended goal of tuning a vehicle... In my opinion, the FRPP tune is not safe (pushes 25 psi), nor does it deliver power effectively. A spike in torque that quickly tapers off and a loss in top end power is not what I would call a good tune. This wasn't apparent to me until I drove with the FRPP tune first-hand. I prefer the car to be balanced and smooth in its power delivery. I'll be getting a COBB Accessport shortly -- it's what I should have done in the first place.
As someone who was on the fence about getting one tune over the other I turned to this forum and each person's response on their specific tune. For people who are looking at getting the FRPP tune and reading this thread I think it would be the best for the community to ensure that there was not an underlying problem before we mark this option as poor delivery by Ford Racing. I know Ford Racing tech line was no help, but they may just have scripts that they read and gave you an answer that they thought fit.
Have you tried putting the stock tune back on to see if you gain the power back? Perhaps re-applying the FRPP tune or disconnecting the battery? I know I had flaky things happen the 3 times I went back and forth between the factory and FRPP tune. Again messing with the octane adjust could offer some change...
I think this is still a great option and thank Ford for keeping some semblance of a warranty by offering this for our vehicle. Would hate to see a someone scratch this off their list this early into the game.


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