Ford Focus ST Forum banner

1 - 20 of 39 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. I am sure this is well known, but when I do a hard pull on my ST the front end wiggles a lot trying to gain traction (I am pretty sure that is why) and I am looking for a way to alleviate that. I am not fond of hitting the throttle and not trusting the front of my car because it feels like it is squirming down the street.

Ideas?

Thanks!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,726 Posts
Hey guys. I am sure this is well known, but when I do a hard pull on my ST the front end wiggles a lot trying to gain traction (I am pretty sure that is why) and I am looking for a way to alleviate that. I am not fond of hitting the throttle and not trusting the front of my car because it feels like it is squirming down the street.

Ideas?

Thanks!
Start with these areas

1. Rear Motor Mount
2. Traction control (I drive in sport mode all the time to let the car slip a bit compared to the computer constantly trying to correct for it all the time)
3. Tires
4. Type of terrain, uneven road surfaces are usually a problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
I have the stress bar, put it on prior to going "stage 3", and I still have that similar issue. I never really did a true before and after to see if it actually works. I think the only thing that will completely fix it are full mounts, and better struts
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Start with these areas

1. Rear Motor Mount
2. Traction control (I drive in sport mode all the time to let the car slip a bit compared to the computer constantly trying to correct for it all the time)
3. Tires
4. Type of terrain, uneven road surfaces are usually a problem.
1. I am not too fond of changing the motor mount because it will make the ride more stiff and vibrate more.
2. I usually drive in "sport mode"
3. Tires don't need replacement yet. Perhaps in another 8K.
4. I agree.

Would a front low traction bar help?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Check your alignment and tire pressure. Check out a proper LSD.
I am only on a stratified tune. I don't think I need a LSD. I would think bolt ons would do the trick. Perhaps RMM and lower front traction bar. I will double check my tire pressure. Just to be clear, when I put the hammer down and do a long pull my front end gets squirly and I think that just has to do with the power going down and not having great traction.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,726 Posts
1. I am not too fond of changing the motor mount because it will make the ride more stiff and vibrate more.
2. I usually drive in "sport mode"
3. Tires don't need replacement yet. Perhaps in another 8K.
4. I agree.

Would a front low traction bar help?
3. Tires, sounds like you may still have the OE Goodyears which really don't do well in the traction department until they are very warm. The Michelin Pilot Super Sports are much better.
 
  • Like
Reactions: seandeeeezy

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm still on the stock tires. They don't need replacement quite yet, but that will be coming up in 5K-8K miles.

No one has addressed if a lower front traction bar will help though.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,548 Posts
I am only on a stratified tune. I don't think I need a LSD. I would think bolt ons would do the trick. Perhaps RMM and lower front traction bar. I will double check my tire pressure. Just to be clear, when I put the hammer down and do a long pull my front end gets squirly and I think that just has to do with the power going down and not having great traction.
Under hard acceleration the car will torque steer to the right, which the computer will try to compensate for by applying the left front brake to pull the car back to the left. If at the same time you steer left to control it yourself the car will be in an over correcting situation. The computer will apply the right front brake to pull the car back to the right just about the same time as you steer right to correct it your self. The end result is that you are squirming down the road. A real limited slip will definitely help; our e-diff does not work very well at anything accept wearing out the brakes. I just steer as straight as possible, try to correct as little as possible and let the car find it's line.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Oops I must have missed it. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Under hard acceleration the car will torque steer to the right, which the computer will try to compensate for by applying the left front brake to pull the car back to the left. If at the same time you steer left to control it yourself the car will be in an over correcting situation. The computer will apply the right front brake to pull the car back to the right just about the same time as you steer right to correct it your self. The end result is that you are squirming down the road. A real limited slip will definitely help; our e-diff does not work very well at anything accept wearing out the brakes. I just steer as straight as possible, try to correct as little as possible and let the car find it's line.
Are you sure the brake is being engaged? A ford tech explained to me that the steering ratio is adjusted which makes left steering inputs far greater while the car is torque steering. I can't imagine the car is engaging the brakes while you are full WOT forward. Regardless, it took me awhile to get used to this. I generally just let my car pull to the right a little now under WOT.

Anyway OP - a rear motor mount is not going to make the ride stiffer. You will experience more vibration at idle but its not bad.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,548 Posts
Are you sure the brake is being engaged? A ford tech explained to me that the steering ratio is adjusted which makes left steering inputs far greater while the car is torque steering. I can't imagine the car is engaging the brakes while you are full WOT forward. Regardless, it took me awhile to get used to this. I generally just let my car pull to the right a little now under WOT.

Anyway OP - a rear motor mount is not going to make the ride stiffer. You will experience more vibration at idle but its not bad.
I'm positive it is the brakes being engaged; that is how the e-differential works. It's not like it's locking up the wheel, just slowing it down a bit so the car pulls the other way. This is one of the reasons that so much brake dust collects on the wheels of the earlier built cars that have the smaller brake rotors and more aggressive pads.

Edit: lots of cars use this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Are you sure the brake is being engaged? A ford tech explained to me that the steering ratio is adjusted which makes left steering inputs far greater while the car is torque steering. I can't imagine the car is engaging the brakes while you are full WOT forward. Regardless, it took me awhile to get used to this. I generally just let my car pull to the right a little now under WOT.

Anyway OP - a rear motor mount is not going to make the ride stiffer. You will experience more vibration at idle but its not bad.
Sorry that is what I meant. I don't want any Vibration.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,480 Posts
1. I am not too fond of changing the motor mount because it will make the ride more stiff and vibrate more.
I avoided doing the RMM for this exact reason. I finally decided to try one out when Mountune introduced their RMM. It significantly improved handling on hard takeoffs (finally no wheel hop). The only downside is a barely noticeable vibration at idle when the AC is on. Honestly the vibration increase is so minimal that my wife did not even notice it (she rarely drives the car, but frequently rides in it). To me it was worth the risk to try it. If you try it and don't like it, you can always sell it on here and get a chunk of your money back.

I don't think I would personally do all of the mounts or even one of the stiffer RMM options on a daily driver. However, I have been on the forum for a long time and have rarely seen RMM only upgrades go back to stock. Particularly true for the more mild RMM options.

Also as others have said, might be worth double checking alignment and tire pressure. The car certainly still gets a little uneasy on hard takeoff after the RMM, but it offers a worthwhile improvement.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LockeLamora33

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,599 Posts
The things that help this, but not completely eliminate are a proper RMM. (I had a stage 2 cpe unit, I hated it, and went to a mountune, and it's never present, I highly recommend that one)

A lower stress bar does help to a degree.

More traction will help, and that will come with better tires.

But an LSD... Yeah a big ticket item, but an LSD will really help gaining traction, removing a lot of torque steer.

You're lucky, just head to mountune in SoCal, they can install the LSD and RMM for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I avoided doing the RMM for this exact reason. I finally decided to try one out when Mountune introduced their RMM. It significantly improved handling on hard takeoffs (finally no wheel hop). The only downside is a barely noticeable vibration at idle when the AC is on. Honestly the vibration increase is so minimal that my wife did not even notice it (she rarely drives the car, but frequently rides in it). To me it was worth the risk to try it. If you try it and don't like it, you can always sell it on here and get a chunk of your money back.

I don't think I would personally do all of the mounts or even one of the stiffer RMM options on a daily driver. However, I have been on the forum for a long time and have rarely seen RMM only upgrades go back to stock. Particularly true for the more mild RMM options.
If I do decide to go with a new RMM (I have a 15' ST so I have the Electric Focus RMM so it is better than what was on the 13'-14') then I probably have a lot of reading to do as there are several available and I would want one that has the least amount of vibration. COBB, CP-E, Mountune, Steeda, FSWERKS, JBR, Powerflex, etc. Any tips on which one to go with that will have the least vibration?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The things that help this, but not completely eliminate are a proper RMM. (I had a stage 2 cpe unit, I hated it, and went to a mountune, and it's never present, I highly recommend that one)

A lower stress bar does help to a degree.

More traction will help, and that will come with better tires.

But an LSD... Yeah a big ticket item, but an LSD will really help gaining traction, removing a lot of torque steer.

You're lucky, just head to mountune in SoCal, they can install the LSD and RMM for you.
I won't be spending that kind of money on a rear LSD. I may however go to Mountune and have them put in a RMM.
 
1 - 20 of 39 Posts
Top