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Discussion Starter #1
Question on the Ford full synthetic motor oil, as my car is still under warranty I'm still doing services at the dealer where I bought my '18 ST1 . . . think I just passed 14989 miles. The dealer showed the next service interval for 5K which would be due in another thousand at 15989+- from when I did the oil/400S??? filter and tire rotation change. I'm thinking that they will try to sell me a full set of OEM wipers then as well, since the wipers show a little smudging, i.e., not crystal clear.

In my bikes I have run Motul Unobtanium full synth and since I baby my machines I ran them to 7500 miles between oil changes, although some LD guys will do 10K . . . I'm in LA with the stop and the go traffic on surface or freeway.

So, I had been planning to push the Ford full synth oil change up beyond 5K . . . meaning the tire rotation would also run over 5K . . . but then I had the realization, "maybe the Ford product doesn't provide the same life that Motul does, and that going to 5k on the oem oil would be pushing it already???" I realize that the computer might tell me when it's past time, but I'd rather keep the oil on the fresher side . . . without wasting too much of my time or money on it. I like the smoothness of engine running that full synth provides, I think I ran it up to 10K on dino . . . but now I'm wondering whether following the 5K dealer interval for Ford full synthetic oil/filter services is prudent, or forget about it until the dash light tells me, "your oil has been toasted, change it yesterday . . . it's gone." ????
 

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I’ve run Fords full synthetic for almost 7000 in my 18 ST1 before. It needed the change but it was fine to that point. For reference I daily drive mine and have 72k+ on the odometer. YMMV
 
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Get a used oil analysis (UOA). Sending in a sample will give you an indication on how long you can run whatever oil brand oil you choose.

The data they give can also provide insight on how the motor is wearing. Blackstone Laboratories charges like 30 bucks and the kit is free. Well worth it if your serious about extended oil change intervals or just wanting to know if the motor is in good health lubrication wise.
 

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It's my understanding that the more important issue at hand is fuel dilution with GDI engines. Once you reach 2% dilution, you start hindering lubication and hardening seals. Oil temperature must sustain above 190 to start burning off the suspended fuel. You do live in a hot climate but you also said you drive stop and go. Essentially the only way for you to know what state your oil is in is to do a Blackstone analysis.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
It's my understanding that the more important issue at hand is fuel dilution with GDI engines. Once you reach 2% dilution, you start hindering lubication and hardening seals. Oil temperature must sustain above 190 to start burning off the suspended fuel. You do live in a hot climate but you also said you drive stop and go. Essentially the only way for you to know what state your oil is in is to do a Blackstone analysis.
@TurboGT

OK,"2% dilution"??? of the total oil circulating? And that would be from direct injection system that would be running rich when engine is cold and fuel wouldn't be burned off totally until the >190 oil temps?? so it would be contaminating the oil somewhat with each cold start?

When my normal work schedule is happening then, yep, stop-go driving . . . but on Sunday I usu. get the car out for a drive on canyon & freeway run . . . . It doesn't seem to take too much pep to get the oil temp gauge to "warm" . . . can't remember what the number generally is.

But, as far as the fuel dilution is concerned, won't the computer be keeping tabs on the oil quality, so if I'm degrading my oil in excess it would be flashing an error code of some type??
 

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I'm sitting here pondering the wisdom of saving $$ to $$$ in the lifetime of a motor that costs $$$$ if you need to replace it due to a neglected oil change.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm sitting here pondering the wisdom of saving $$ to $$$ in the lifetime of a motor that costs $$$$ if you need to replace it due to a neglected oil change.
Alrighty, well, that is what this post is asking about . . . "safe oil change intervals" . . . if you note I didn't ask if it "was cool to skip oil changes" . . . ??? One poster mentioned he pushes to 7K . . . but then it seems like he is running more sustained miles, etc. So far nobody has posted saying, "Don't bother with oil changes, it's not worth the money." Seems like the advice is to do them . . . a question that is similar to your question is, is the cost of doing oil analysis on a relatively low mile engine worth doing versus . . . just doing fresh oil/filter??
 

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If you don’t care about your timing chain, push the envelope. For the 25 bucks, I’ll change it. Usually before 5k. I don’t want to replace an engine because I didn’t want to change the oil.

If it was a big diesel and it was like 5-600, run amsoil, get a blackstone report and go for the long haul. But for 25 bucks, keep it changed.
 

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OP- I believe Fords recommended oil change interval is 7,500 miles, but there is an algorithm that supposedly adjusts that based upon driving style and other factors. I work from home, and drive for work when I am meeting clients, so generally I do not put a lot of miles on my cars- but if I did, I'd probably change the oil at 5,000 or thereabouts, because that has been the consensus over the past year or so I've been here especially for cars that get driven hard. .

I am a BMW enthusiast as well, and a previous car was an E39 sportwagon. Those cars had a tendency to eat Vanos seals, and the reason for that is because the factory oil change interval on those cars was 15,000 miles (seriously). Since many/most of those cars were leased, this extended interval likely saved BMW a lot of money in "free" oil changes, and ensured work in the future by smoking the oil seals during those long oil change intervals. That way the next owner can come in to visit the friendly and massively expensive service department. My car came with a lot of records and was not leased, and got oil changes in the 6,000 to 8,000 mile range (I changed it every 5,000 miles). The Vanos seals were still doing their job when I sold the car in 2018.
 

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Alrighty, well, that is what this post is asking about . . . "safe oil change intervals" . . . if you note I didn't ask if it "was cool to skip oil changes" . . . ??? One poster mentioned he pushes to 7K . . . but then it seems like he is running more sustained miles, etc. So far nobody has posted saying, "Don't bother with oil changes, it's not worth the money." Seems like the advice is to do them . . . a question that is similar to your question is, is the cost of doing oil analysis on a relatively low mile engine worth doing versus . . . just doing fresh oil/filter??
Rereading my post, I see my wording was a little off... I know you're not talking about stretching the oil change interval. If you're stretching the change interval to save, say, even 50% of the oil change cost over the life of the engine, then I believe you've won what amounts to a trivial amount of money compared to the price of the engine. As you say, is it worth doing oil analysis instead of just following the routine?

Most owners manuals also note that one should change oil more frequently if you operate under dusty conditions or heat or...
 
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@TurboGT

But, as far as the fuel dilution is concerned, won't the computer be keeping tabs on the oil quality, so if I'm degrading my oil in excess it would be flashing an error code of some type??
The computer can not assess things like fuel dilution; it just measures things like mileage, temperature and engine speed and then gives you a service engine recommendation at some point.
 

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The oil change interval for this car is 10k miles, 5k is perfectly fine I would not worry at all, you're already halving the service interval. Personally I think 10k miles is totally acceptable, but I do 5k mile changes because I like to work on my car and it doesn't cost very much. Ford would not put a 10k mile interval in the manual if they didn't think it was safe, remember if you follow the manual to a tee, you will get warranty coverage no questions asked. That means they are so confident that they put their money down for it. Going below 5k is nothing more than wasting money (unless you track the car). This car doesn't have oil dilution issues, that is an issue that has been seen specifically with the Honda 1.5l turbo motor, not all DGI engines.

If i'm being honest, I would push you to run Motorcraft oil and not Motul. Motul doesn't meet the requirements spelled out in the manual, you would be better off running something that explicitly says it meets the specs in the manual. Less warranty issues with that route and more peace of mind.

At the end of the day this isn't a special motor with special requirements, this is a regular motor that is in many different models, and thousands and thousands of cars on the road right now. Penzoil UP, is $30, fully synthetic, API SN+, and is better than the specs in the manual require. Mobil 1, Penzoil UP, Amzoil (expensive), and Motorcraft are all excellent, easily available, and cheap options that will serve you well.
 

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The owners manual for my 2017 states the oil must meet spec WSS-M2C913-C for 5W-30 engine oil. I use Motorcraft oil, because I couldn't find another oil that meets that spec (I think Royal Purple meets it as well). I use Mobil One in my other car (a Honda Odyssey Minivan) and I called Mobil One, and they told me that at the time (almost a year ago) they did not support this spec. Perhaps that has changed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If you don’t care about your timing chain, push the envelope. For the 25 bucks, I’ll change it. Usually before 5k. I don’t want to replace an engine because I didn’t want to change the oil.
@turboguy327 . . . OK, does this car have a timing chain? I thought everything was by serpentine belt these days??

@ddfred

Thanks for the heads up on what the computer might or might not do . . . .

@junits15 :

Thanks for the thorough posting . . . so that gives a range that might be from 5K - 10K as a safe oil change interval. I would agree that 15K wouldn't be wise for a long hauler . . . but then these days a lot of people are doing lease and they just walk away at the end of it.

@Mzdrati :

Thanks also for the spec info, so far I am running the motorcraft full synthetic . . . it's certainly not as expensive as buying Motul motor oil, but I don't know where these "Why are you trying to save $25??" questions are coming from. At a local non-dealer mechanic I got the same rough price as the dealer to do a full synth oil/filter change . . . I think the oil was $50/60 bucks plus labor . . . well over 100 bucks . . . not a "killer" but then, not "cheap" either.
 
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@turboguy327 . . . OK, does this car have a timing chain? I thought everything was by serpentine belt these days??

@ddfred

Thanks for the heads up on what the computer might or might not do . . . .

@junits15 :

Thanks for the thorough posting . . . so that gives a range that might be from 5K - 10K as a safe oil change interval. I would agree that 15K wouldn't be wise for a long hauler . . . but then these days a lot of people are doing lease and they just walk away at the end of it.

@Mzdrati :

Thanks also for the spec info, so far I am running the motorcraft full synthetic . . . it's certainly not as expensive as buying Motul motor oil, but I don't know where these "Why are you trying to save $25??" questions are coming from. At a local non-dealer mechanic I got the same rough price as the dealer to do a full synth oil/filter change . . . I think the oil was $50/60 bucks plus labor . . . well over 100 bucks . . . not a "killer" but then, not "cheap" either.
The serpentine belt drives the accessories.... The timing belt/chain drives the camshaft and sometimes other accessories.
 

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It should be noted that the oil spec referenced in the owners manual differs in certain years. Some years specify oil spec WSS-M2C946-A, My car is a 2017, and the manual specifies
WSS-M2C913-C . I am wondering where it states the 10,000 mile change interval in the manual. I read comments in other threads where 7,500 miles was stated (so that is where I got that figure when stated previously). Can anyone point me to the proper section? Just curious if my 2017 manual has it too.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It should be noted that the oil spec referenced in the owners manual differs in certain years. Some years specify oil spec WSS-M2C946-A, My car is a 2017, and the manual specifies
WSS-M2C913-C . I am wondering where it states the 10,000 mile change interval in the manual. I read comments in other threads where 7,500 miles was stated (so that is where I got that figure when stated previously). Can anyone point me to the proper section? Just curious if my 2017 manual has it too.
@Mzdrati

Manual?? Manual??? we don't need no stinking manual . . . . I believe the miles between changes would be highly dependent on driving style . . . from my LD motorcycle buddies experience, sustained engine speed over LD miles is "easier" on the life of the oil than, start/stop short runs that don't allow the engine to get up to good operating temps. So, "10K" driven from let's say, LA to Yellowstone NP is going to be "easier" on the motor than "10K" driven in LA traffic for a few miles at a time . . . .

In my case prolly closer to the 5K interval would be wiser . . . for the gent that posted here with higher miles of driving, if it's moderate pace, i.e., not running beyond redline . . . he could probably push it to 10K and it would be "safe," but then he said he likes to do maintenance . . . . 7500 would be the "split the dif" mark, and that's more or less what I did/do with my higher rev-ing bikes . . . .
 

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@turboguy327 . . . OK, does this car have a timing chain? I thought everything was by serpentine belt these days??

@ddfred

Thanks for the heads up on what the computer might or might not do . . . .

@junits15 :

Thanks for the thorough posting . . . so that gives a range that might be from 5K - 10K as a safe oil change interval. I would agree that 15K wouldn't be wise for a long hauler . . . but then these days a lot of people are doing lease and they just walk away at the end of it.

@Mzdrati :

Thanks also for the spec info, so far I am running the motorcraft full synthetic . . . it's certainly not as expensive as buying Motul motor oil, but I don't know where these "Why are you trying to save $25??" questions are coming from. At a local non-dealer mechanic I got the same rough price as the dealer to do a full synth oil/filter change . . . I think the oil was $50/60 bucks plus labor . . . well over 100 bucks . . . not a "killer" but then, not "cheap" either.
Also, changing it yourself is like 25 bucks. FL400 is like 3 dollars and oil is 20ish.
 

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It is true that an FL400 is $3, but synthetic oil that meets WSS-M2C913-C is pretty pricy (as far as I know, it's either Ford's Motorspot Synthetic oil ($8.50 per quart), or Royal Purple ($6.50 per quart). I wish I could use Mobil One synthetic, but I actually called ExxonMobil customer service and asked about the M2C913-C spec, and they told me that the latest oil spec for a Ford Focus St in their records is the M2C946-A spec.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It is true that an FL400 is $3, but synthetic oil that meets WSS-M2C913-C is pretty pricy (as far as I know, it's either Ford's Motorspot Synthetic oil ($8.50 per quart), or Royal Purple ($6.50 per quart). I wish I could use Mobil One synthetic, but I actually called ExxonMobil customer service and asked about the M2C913-C spec, and they told me that the latest oil spec for a Ford Focus St in their records is the M2C946-A spec.
@Mzdrati

Right . . . going good oil isn't "cheap," but sure, "cheaper than replacing a blown motor" . . . . A lot of my old moto buddies used to run Mobil 1 in their bikes, but, there was a time in which it wasn't spec'd for motorcycles a number of years back, so I just never got into the Mobil1 or other cheaper options.

This could be one of those "are u under warranty or not?" questions . . . probably any oil, if changed regularly would "be fine" . . . but, for the "defense against the dark artists" who would be reviewing any warranty repairs, possibly non-Ford oil would create an unstoppable force of . . . denial of invoice, etc.
 
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