[29564]

Hello All,

So I'll get you all caught up to the current situation. i have a 2013 focus st , just over 53,000 miles with CObb Catback, FMIC, Moroso OCC, and injen cold air intake.

Driving around Woodward avenue a couple weeks ago and I noticed at a stop light that white/blue smoke was coming out my exhaust after revving the engine. It was very little at first and didn't think much of it. It did not smoke at idle.

So through out the cruise i started noticing it getting worse. I also noticed it was coming out after going under boost. I though oh crap. so I went home and parked it.

The next morning started it up and nothing, went for a quick drive up to the store and it started to smoke alot, including at idle, strong burning oil smell in the cabin and outside. Limped it home and did not drive it again.

After a little searching forums and research i came to the conclusion it was probably a turbo seal.

Might I add, other than the smoke, it idled fine, it ran fine, the boost gauge responded like normal, didnt notice a loss in power at all, just smoke.

So I take it to the dealer, they diagnose it, and come back that I have low compression in cylinder 1. 45 psi dry, 120 wet. other cylinders were with in 120 psi +/- 5%
I was like ok?!?! fix it? give me a new engine cause that is wack.

They are denying to even take apart the block to check what is the cause of the compression loss because of my OCC, they are claim it was kinked and causing back pressure in the crank that caused the issue.

I had just emptied the oil catch can the day prior to this happening and did not see any kink in any hose. (this was my 2nd time emptying it in the 100 miles i had it on the car) ( only about an 1/8 -1/4 an inch every other fill up which i researched to be normal for my type of driving.

So my question to you guys, have you ran into anything like this? I think its BS that they are saying a "Kinked" PCV system can cause that much compression loss.

I was going to take it to another dealer for a second oppinion, but they are claiming as soon as i leave their dealership they are going to void my powertrain warranty, and no one will work on my car. (they cant do this under federal law)

Might I add, the technician that diagnosed my car, classified my turbo as modified because I have a turbo smart BOV . . . I corrected him that this has nothing to do with controlling/increasing boost pressure, only releasing pressure. Then he seemed enlightened as i explained how electronic boost control works with the solenoid on the waste gate. . .

please help, i don't have 7000 dollars they are claiming it will cost ME for a new engine.

UPDATE 8/11 : They did a bore scope. Found that Cylinder 1 is all gunked and black, all the other cylinders look perfect. This is what I am told, points toward a Ring Land Failure. Which is a relatively common issue in the 2.0 ecoboost engines.
Dealer is contacting a Ford Engineer to come look at the car to make final determination after considering all this new information.
Will keep you posted.

UPDATE 8/12: They did a bore test with a better instrument. They found cyclinder scoring in piston 1, all other pistons look perfect. Service manager is asking for an authorization of a tear down. He's saying he has to talk to a ford rep, but there is a 50/50 chance warranty will cover it. I may authorize it once i speak directly with a Ford Engineering support.

 

[psilynt]

You really should have listened to the advice that gets posted here a lot - return to 100% stock before taking it to the dealer. Your best bet at this point is to take off any and all mods and try taking it to a different dealer.

 

[SirPhobos]

Your only bet is to contact the ford customer service reps here. They'll likely be able to get you in tough with the Ford Corp regional manager to plead your case.

Unfortunately for you, the magnuson moss warranty act that many will try and fall to will not apply here. The OCC alone is enough for them to deny your warranty claim and flag your VIN. You did not replace a failing component with one of equal quality that meets specifications, you modified a component to work differently.

I am not saying the OCC blew your engine, I am sure it was a combination of things, but you're in a tough spot now. They are fully within their rights to deny the claim and flag the car

 

[p.opus]

:whs:

Why do you think it's such a "big deal" that Mountune's 275HP kit is advertised to not affect warranty status if installed by Mountune or an authorized Ford dealer. Self installed mods are just asking for trouble and it becomes a he said/he said affair with the factory saying the mod contributed to the issue and you insisting it didn't.

That's why the only mod I currently have is EuroSpec cup holders (little chance of cupholder failure). I even stored the 5 amp fuse controlling my active air shutters so I can reinstall the fuse prior to bringing into the shop.

 

[29564]

Your only bet is to contact the ford customer service reps here. They'll likely be able to get you in tough with the Ford Corp regional manager to plead your case.

Unfortunately for you, the magnuson moss warranty act that many will try and fall to will not apply here. The OCC alone is enough for them to deny your warranty claim and flag your VIN. You did not replace a failing component with one of equal quality that meets specifications, you modified a component to work differently.

I am not saying the OCC blew your engine, I am sure it was a combination of things, but you're in a tough spot now. They are fully within their rights to deny the claim and flag the car

I spoke with a lawyer, and this was the general conclusion that was made too. The exception being that the dealer can only deny warranty base off their investigation. The can report their investigation to other dealers, but have no authority to cancel my whole powertrain warranty like i was lead to believe by the dealer.

If i take it to another dealer, they have to do another investigation, and if they come to a different conclusion, then what ever the previous dealer found or didn't find doesn't matter. Its ultimately up to the dealer discretion.

I have new information from their investigation that points toward a relatively common issue that helps my case. But we will see.
In the mean time i bought a 2001 cavalier for 600 bucks to get back and forth to work. runs drive, ac works. Cant complain.

 

[Rwilliams]

I spoke with a lawyer, and this was the general conclusion that was made too. The exception being that the dealer can only deny warranty base off their investigation. The can report their investigation to other dealers, but have no authority to cancel my whole powertrain warranty like i was lead to believe by the dealer.

If i take it to another dealer, they have to do another investigation, and if they come to a different conclusion, then what ever the previous dealer found or didn't find doesn't matter. Its ultimately up to the dealer discretion.

I have new information from their investigation that points toward a relatively common issue that helps my case. But we will see.
In the mean time i bought a 2001 cavalier for 600 bucks to get back and forth to work. runs drive, ac works. Cant complain.

For 600 bucks? I need something like that in my life haha, big turbo daily might be an issue in the winter

 

[illegiblecorn]

Go to a different dealer. One dealer said they would not replace my motor due to mods and they would void my entire warranty if i would not return totally to stock. Went to a different dealer and here is my results

 

[AK2112]

Sh_t, 53,000 miles.

You're cutting this one close!

 

[USAFST2]

I'm not sure if this'll help at all but, I can offer you some similar experience. Over at Camaro5, someone had an LS3 go south. His car wasn't exactly heavily modified, if I remember correctly. The dealer/GM cited the catch can as the direct cause of the issue. He pressed the case for a good while and in the end, he had a $40k paperweight.

A post I was hoping to not have to make (GM blocks L3 engine warranty repair) - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com

It's got 650 replies. You might want to scan through that massive first post he made (he updated it as it went along). It might give you some insight on what he went through and maybe, how to not repeat any of his mistakes, if there were any.

 

[p.opus]

Well, that kind of ends the debate on whether or not I'm getting an Oil Catch Can.....

 

[Soden82]

I wonder how a dealership would behave with a catch can that's connected to the intake instead (or oil separator)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bryman13]

And I have just been contemplating getting an OCC. That sucks man, hopefully you get it all sorted out.

 

[grindMARC]

Going to leave this 7-5-16 post right here from the Highest HP Focus ST thread:

Please update list.

e85, e30, Stock Turbo, Full supporting Bolt-ons. Tuned by Russ and Ronald at DeadHook Motorsports

282.18 wHP @ 398.87ft-lb e30 tune See below

Did get 276.62 wHP @ 368.9 ft-lb on 93 octane pump gas, but will have to get the dyno sheet from Russ.

Final run
View attachment 133313


2 runs before, almost broke 400ft-lb mark
View attachment 133305

 

[psilynt]

And I have just been contemplating getting an OCC. That sucks man, hopefully you get it all sorted out.

I would do some checking on your specific situation before you pull the trigger on one, only some cars seem to have the issue. Pull your sound symposer and/or cold side pipe to check for oil. If it seems like there's an abundance of oil then you might want to consider a catch can, otherwise it's just snake oil. I've pulled my cold side apart a couple times now along with my intake tract and they are both bone dry so I have no plan to pick up a catch can unless that changes.

 

[Bryman13]

I would do some checking on your specific situation before you pull the trigger on one, only some cars seem to have the issue. Pull your sound symposer and/or cold side pipe to check for oil. If it seems like there's an abundance of oil then you might want to consider a catch can, otherwise it's just snake oil. I've pulled my cold side apart a couple times now along with my intake tract and they are both bone dry so I have no plan to pick up a catch can unless that changes.

Good point. I have a buddy that just got set up to do carbon blasting so we're going to pull it apart to take a look at everything here shortly anyway, so I'll find out if it's necessary while getting a good thorough cleaning.

 

[USAFST2]

For what it's worth, my car had 600 miles on it when I pulled the intake manifold off to install the Boomba spacers for the throttle body and manifold. The inside of the manifold, from every angle that I could see, was coated with oil. I understand that the engine is still fairly new and a bit of blow-by during this time isn't overly alarming but, I got a catch can just to be safe.

My Camaro was the same way. I put a catch can on at 1500 miles and it was almost completely full by the 3000 mile mark. I drained it and checked again at 6k. There was hardly anything in there, maybe 3-4 ounces. I drained it either way and then checked again at 9k miles. There was the slightest pooling of oil on the bottom of the can. I checked it periodically but, the can stayed on my car until I had 17k miles on it and it hardly at anything in it when I finally took it off before I sold the car. Worst case scenario, take the can off before you bring your car in for service where you suspect there to be engine damage.

 

[29564]

8/12 Update in header.

 

[29564]

Well, that kind of ends the debate on whether or not I'm getting an Oil Catch Can.....

I say its worth it for your engine health. Just make sure to remove it if you have to take your car to a dealer.

 

[p.opus]

I say its worth it for your engine health. Just make sure to remove it if you have to take your car to a dealer.

Sounds like an oxymoron to me. Install a piece of equipment that will protect your engine that you have to remove so your dealership won't void your warranty for using it.

I've read all the debates forward and backwards and sideways, and each person is pretty entrenched on their own side and really there is no reason to visit the pages and pages that have already been written on the subject.

The way I figure it is this: While the engine/powertrain/car is covered under warranty, I'm not going to give them any reason to deny service. That means leaving the car stock, or what modifications I can do don't affect the structural or electrical integrity of the car. (Ok, so eurospec cup holders definitely don't hold to that theory, but I'll take the risk with some plastic cup holders. <grin>).

Once the warranty has expired, then I'm free to do what I want to. But that's just me.

 

[bootdinker]

Sounds like an oxymoron to me. Install a piece of equipment that will protect your engine that you have to remove so your dealership won't void your warranty for using it.

I've read all the debates forward and backwards and sideways, and each person is pretty entrenched on their own side and really there is no reason to visit the pages and pages that have already been written on the subject.

The way I figure it is this: While the engine/powertrain/car is covered under warranty, I'm not going to give them any reason to deny service. That means leaving the car stock, or what modifications I can do don't affect the structural or electrical integrity of the car. (Ok, so eurospec cup holders definitely don't hold to that theory, but I'll take the risk with some plastic cup holders. <grin>).

Once the warranty has expired, then I'm free to do what I want to. But that's just me.

I'm with you. I got the Ford Protect extended warranty, so the only thing I'm looking to do is the Mountune MP275. The car is fun enough for me as is. By the time the warranty runs out, parts should be crazy cheap and I can start experimenting.