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@thodoris85 How do you get the sum of 257 when adding up the hex values. When I convert them to Dec. and do the addition I get a much different sum? OK I have also done this adding the hex values without converting to decimal and when I do that in your example it works, but when I do the same with the default values that were in my APIM it doesn't seem to come out right. is it possible the values were not correct from the start? Never mind I found my mistake, I was adding 07+00 not 07+D0 Sry to bother you and thanks for the hex lesson...

Thanks,
TJ
 

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Seems you got it.

However, another thing that you could do for the checksum is to add 2 on the old checksum itself. And you will get the new one.
Meaning: 57+2=59 (shouldn't convert to decimal. all additions are made into hex)
easy peasy

I am waiting for me chinese camera as well! :)

I already tested with a home-camera, and works fine!
 

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Cool I guess we're on the right track. as I said in the PM but I'll add here for all readers, when I went back yesterday to check the Checksum apparently the software made the necessary checksum change for me when it did the write. It was changed to 59 when I checked it and I didn't make that change myself... Thx again for the lesson deeply appreciated... :) Here is the OBDII unit I bought, Its only $30.00 and already has a switch for the HS/MS. I've used it and it works perfect...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0GVBWY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cable Adapter Electronic device Technology Electronics accessory
TJ
 

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Well the Camera arrived yesterday and today I got to work on it today. Everything went well with one exception, after getting everything all hooked up it didn't work! I had already reassembled the dash and was about to tear it all apart again but decided to check things in the back first. Thankfully that's where the problem was, I did buy the T splice adapters to hook the power to the backup lights and for some reason they didn't work. I guess I needed ones for smaller gauge wire, the ones I BOUGHT WERE FOR 18-14 GAUGE. So after finding that the problem was the Power to the camera, I just stripped the backup light wires a bit and spliced and soldered the Camera power wires in and BAM it works. Routing the wires to the dash was a breeze, I went up the passenger side all the way to the dash(Up under the edge of the headliner) and then routed the wire behind the Glove box right to the APIM. I had bought the Molex connectors and connected them to an RCA female wire I had laying around the house. Getting them into the harness was a chore and I never did get them all the way in but far enough that they made good connections. All ands all the job took about 3 1/2 hrs at a relaxed pace here in the Florida heat. My car is a 2013 Ford Escape SE, I'd like to thank everyone in the thread for all the insight, Instructions, and support, it certainly helped me a great deal to be fully prepared before diving in. Here is a video I also used to prepare for this job...

 

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Camera got installed last week and everything seems to be working fine.
Just a small note. I had a ground loop issue when I installed it and powered it from the car battery.


I had to also connect a ground loop isolator (and some adapter due to the fact that the isolator had BNC connectors and I needed RCA) in order to avoid all this noise



Please note that when the camera was powered from an external battery, it worked without any noise, even without the ground loop isolator
 

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After a near backup collision yesterday (I was halfway out of my parking space, when the guy behind me decided to start backing out), my wife FINALLY agreed that we needed to get the camera installed. I'll probably go with a wireless setup so that I don't have to run wires from back to front.
 

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After a near backup collision yesterday (I was halfway out of my parking space, when the guy behind me decided to start backing out), my wife FINALLY agreed that we needed to get the camera installed. I'll probably go with a wireless setup so that I don't have to run wires from back to front.
Don't go the el-cheapo route with a kit from China. That's what I did and it still doesn't work. I'd have it fixed by now I suppose but for our house fire. I've been out of the house since January.
 

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Got everything installed, got the APIM programmed, but now I get either an error message or a staticky, distorted picture. I have a small portable TV that I can test the camera itself on to figure out if it's the camera or the transmitter kit.
 

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Got everything installed, got the APIM programmed, but now I get either an error message or a staticky, distorted picture. I have a small portable TV that I can test the camera itself on to figure out if it's the camera or the transmitter kit.
That's the same problem I have. Which kit did you get? I got one from China and figured the transmitter and/or receiver were not powerful enough to get the signal from the back to the front. When it works it is only because I am parked under my open garage door in the morning and it doesn't work the rest of the day. Additionally, the led tag light has burned out on mine. Because of these issues I would not buy from China again.
 

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That's the same problem I have. Which kit did you get? I got one from China and figured the transmitter and/or receiver were not powerful enough to get the signal from the back to the front. When it works it is only because I am parked under my open garage door in the morning and it doesn't work the rest of the day. Additionally, the led tag light has burned out on mine. Because of these issues I would not buy from China again.

I don't think the camera was from China, but the transmitter kit may have been. It was in a plain brown box. I mounted the transmitter in the styrofoam near my factory Sony amp thinking it would be a short enough distance. Going to go hardwired this weekend, and send the transceiver kit back to Amazon as defective, since I tested the camera with a portable tv.
 

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I would love to have a backup camera on my 2014 ST. Also when do you plan on trying to put the sync 3 system on the car? I really really really want sync 3.
 

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I don't think the camera was from China, but the transmitter kit may have been. It was in a plain brown box. I mounted the transmitter in the styrofoam near my factory Sony amp thinking it would be a short enough distance. Going to go hardwired this weekend, and send the transceiver kit back to Amazon as defective, since I tested the camera with a portable tv.
When I say from China, I mean like ordered from there because it was so much cheaper, and waiting three weeks for it to get here.
 

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No, mine was all ordered on Prime. Actually, I figured out the problem over the weekend. Apparently, I put the new connectors in the housing behind the APIM backwards. :shocked: I made the mistake in assuming (and we all know what THAT does!) that the gold wire was the positive, and the silver wire was the negative! It's all good now, though!
 

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I have a 2014 st and changed the 1 for a 3 and didn't work, navigation enabling did work though...... Any way to make the rear view camera work.?
 

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There's an entire thread, maybe more, on installing a rear camera that works thru the MFT screen. Noob alert: this isn't for feebs. It takes some knowledge of wiring, and some intuition for these sorts of things.
http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-...backup-camera-installation-picture-heavy.html
I havent installed the pins behind the radio yet, so I was expecting the "NO CAMERA" message as soon I hit reverse, I got frustrated when I didnt saw it, but today I left the car in Reverse for a long time and the message came on about 10 seconds later. Im still waiting on my rear view camera to arrive to fully test it.
 

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I havent installed the pins behind the radio yet, so I was expecting the "NO CAMERA" message as soon I hit reverse, I got frustrated when I didnt saw it, but today I left the car in Reverse for a long time and the message came on about 10 seconds later. Im still waiting on my rear view camera to arrive to fully test it.
The pins are the bear, believe me.
 
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