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I didn't realize that was a thing. I'm going to be pissed if I spent all this time installing and can't use it.
I said the same thing to myself when i pulled out my engine, modded it, now I cant get the damn thing to run.
However, the good folks on this forum put their heads together and are helping me out as we speak. Be patient and continue to work hard.
 

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Do you know the build date of your car?

Primary Features
Build Date: 14.11.2012
Vehicle Line: Focus (C346N)
Body Style: 5 Door Saloon
Version: ST
Engine: 2.0L EcoBoost (240PS)
Transmission: 6 Speed Manual Transaxle - MMT6
Drive: LHD FWD
Emission: With 49 State/Non Green State Req
Air Conditioning: Dual Zone Auto Temp Control A/C
Territory: (+)"USA"
Paint: Tuxedo Black Metallic
 

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Makes sense that early year won't work because i know they didn't offer the camera till a later date! Might have to do the lockpick way :/
 

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Primary Features
Build Date: 14.11.2012
Vehicle Line: Focus (C346N)
Body Style: 5 Door Saloon
Version: ST
Engine: 2.0L EcoBoost (240PS)
Transmission: 6 Speed Manual Transaxle - MMT6
Drive: LHD FWD
Emission: With 49 State/Non Green State Req
Air Conditioning: Dual Zone Auto Temp Control A/C
Territory: (+)"USA"
Paint: Tuxedo Black Metallic
Mine's roughly the same age; bought it Christmas 2012. And mine worked. But the signal is too weak to make it to the front. And now the light has burned out. That's what I get for buying it from Chine.
 

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Yeah, it's definitely not the build year because the guy in the other thread's car was built a week after mine and his is working fine.
 

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Mine is that too, the picture above is the generic picture. But your wiring was similar to above? What did you do with the red trigger wire?
I think that's the same as the blue wire in my wireless setup. I capped it off; not needed.
 

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I just don't get what can be the issue. This sucks.
Google around; the truth is out there. Or if you bought it stateside check with the seller.
 

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I guess I never posted about my install. Here are my thoughts

I did this install without the wireless units and just ran the video cable up to the front of the car behind the dash. I am old school and was taught that wired always beats wireless. From reading the experiences of other people it seems like it it is much easier and less time consuming in the long run to not mess with the wireless units.

I did not tap into the rear wiper for power. I used the reverse light wire on the driver side. I thought having the camera on all the time might reduce it's lifespan. I don't know if that's true or not, but since I was already running the video wire into the cabin it was really not that much extra work to run the power cable also.

If I had to do it again (and I might still change it) I would not use the camera that replaces the stock hatch release/plate light. I think it aims too low. I would get an adjustable camera. You would have to drill into the plastic facia to the left or the right of the stock hatch release handle, but I saw kits on ebay that even include the drill bit. something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Degrees-Adjustable-Parking-Monitor/dp/B014PD4Q3O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479252064&sr=8-1&keywords=adjustable+backup+camera

The only snag that I hit was that I originally used wire that is too big for the connectors that need to be pushed into the factory harness. I used some wire I already had. It was unmarked, but looked small enough. The connectors got stuck halfway in because the wire with the insulation would not fit into the hole in the harness. The connector went in far enough that it was locked in and I could not pull it out. I almost destroyed the factory plug on the harness to get it out. I ended up getting 22 gauge wire, and it was perfect.
In the 6th picture, what did you use that for?
 

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I guess I never posted about my install. Here are my thoughts

I did this install without the wireless units and just ran the video cable up to the front of the car behind the dash. I am old school and was taught that wired always beats wireless. From reading the experiences of other people it seems like it it is much easier and less time consuming in the long run to not mess with the wireless units.

I did not tap into the rear wiper for power. I used the reverse light wire on the driver side. I thought having the camera on all the time might reduce it's lifespan. I don't know if that's true or not, but since I was already running the video wire into the cabin it was really not that much extra work to run the power cable also.

If I had to do it again (and I might still change it) I would not use the camera that replaces the stock hatch release/plate light. I think it aims too low. I would get an adjustable camera. You would have to drill into the plastic facia to the left or the right of the stock hatch release handle, but I saw kits on ebay that even include the drill bit. something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Degrees-Adjustable-Parking-Monitor/dp/B014PD4Q3O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479252064&sr=8-1&keywords=adjustable+backup+camera

The only snag that I hit was that I originally used wire that is too big for the connectors that need to be pushed into the factory harness. I used some wire I already had. It was unmarked, but looked small enough. The connectors got stuck halfway in because the wire with the insulation would not fit into the hole in the harness. The connector went in far enough that it was locked in and I could not pull it out. I almost destroyed the factory plug on the harness to get it out. I ended up getting 22 gauge wire, and it was perfect.
How do you get the connector harness apart? I was working on this project over the weekend and was unable to complete because I still need the TE terminals but it seems like the hard right angle may be hard to install the terminals. Is there a trick to this??
 

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I think that's the same as the blue wire in my wireless setup. I capped it off; not needed.

I wired in the trigger wire to the left rear reverse light and ran the positive camera power up and am going to wire to the fuse box. Is this un-necessary? Should I just cap the the trigger wire and wire my positive wire where I currently have my trigger wire?

Any feedback is much appreciated.
 

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How do you get the connector harness apart? I was working on this project over the weekend and was unable to complete because I still need the TE terminals but it seems like the hard right angle may be hard to install the terminals. Is there a trick to this??
The plug cover slides off to give you access to the place where you can insert the terminals. And the terminal fits completely inside the plug when properly inserted. It's been a few months since I did mine so it's not fresh in my memory. That's about all I can offer. Oh, and when putting the radio back in, place a microfiber cloth on top of it as you slide it back in. Then pull the cloth out as you get it past the hood of the dash. This keeps it from scratching the vinyl.
 

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The plug cover slides off to give you access to the place where you can insert the terminals. And the terminal fits completely inside the plug when properly inserted. It's been a few months since I did mine so it's not fresh in my memory. That's about all I can offer. Oh, and when putting the radio back in, place a microfiber cloth on top of it as you slide it back in. Then pull the cloth out as you get it past the hood of the dash. This keeps it from scratching the vinyl.
Okay, ill have to give that a try once my terminals arrive. Thanks for the MF cloth tip. I haven't scratched my leather yet pulling it out but I definitely dont want to scratch it now.
 

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View attachment 184682

This is my APIM in Forscan :shocked:

Any idea of what I have to change to enable the camera? Going crazy!
@Giggity, did you manage to get a workaround for this?

yours would look like:
FROM: 7D0-01-01 096C 6592 1055
TO: 7D0-01-01 0B6C 6592 1057
I have an EU version and my value looks pretty much as yours (I guess that our version is a bit different than the US).

Note for everyone, the last two digits (on the above example its 55) are the checksum and has to be changed if you make any changes on the configs.

checksum calculation example:
lets say we have this "7D0-01-01 0B6C 6592 1057"
this means that we have to add up (in hex) everything, apart the last two digits, like:
07+D0+01+01+0B+6C+65+92+10 = 257

We get the last two digits of the above sum (from 257 we get 57), and this is our checksum for this line.
 

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@Giggity
Just updated the above post of mine, with the correct info.

I just made the same change on my FF3.5 (from 09 to 0B) and I got the following (note that I didn't have any camera connected):


This looks very promising. I am going to test with a camera tomorrow and let you know of the outcome.
 

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Incorrect Checksum QUESTION?

I have connected and looked at my APIM using forscan on my 2013 Escape. Attached is a picture with the original settings, I did change the "1" to a "3" as indicated in the first post here and when I went to save it said there was a checksum error but did allow me to make the change. I did so and now when I put the car in reverse it is looking for a camera so I guess that's a good thing but should I be concerned about the checksum error. The error was highliting the second field in the 3 fields shown in my car. Thank you for all the instructions and great help here on the awesome site. Now to order the connectors and camera and finish the job. Hope the rest goes as easy as the APIM recoding. Looks like almost every camera is from China, I'm going with a wired camera not a wireless so it looks like it'll be at least 2 weeks before I get the camera. I'll let ya know how this all goes once I get the rest of the parts.
TJ :)
 

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