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Hello everyone! I’m fairly new to the st world. I got my 2014 focus st3 in October 2020 for $14k. 69k miles and came with Cobb accessport, stage 3 bolt on, and cpe Intercooler. I’m still trying to get used to how the car runs I came from a ‘19 Altima and before a 2010 Tacoma so I’m new to “fast” cars lol. Anyone have any advice on what to do and what not to do? Thank you in advance!
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I'm a new owner of a 2014 ST3 too. My car had 87K miles and two days after I bought it the purge valve went out. Apart from that I've been having no issues and a lot of fun with it. Enjoy it!
 

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I'm not really a new owner anymore but still within my first year of ST. My ST2 had 105,000 on it when i bought it and so far I've broke the Dual Mass Fly Wheel, slave cylinder, shift fork, and the turbo went bad.

But don't worry. This wont happen to you. I can trace the turbo back to the previous owner's bad garage choice and the clutch failure back to a flawed ford design + rough driving.

I would highly recommend 2 things.
1) get JPC braided clutch line. The stock clutch line has a directional restrictor and this is largely the reason my transmission stuff went bad. It makes for very soft/slow clutch response. Combine slow clutch response with high miles, clutch drops, and a weak fly wheel and things are bound to get ugly. People with JPC braided line have far more miles on the stock clutch with less problems.
2) Do not high boost in low rpms. Do not. DOOOO NOT. If you see a little boost on the highway in 6th that's fine, but do not try to hit 26 psi before 2,000 rpm.
 

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Mine failed after 85K miles so I dont know if I should complain..
I guess 105k is alright then haha.

Were you using the stock clutch line? I'm still scratching my head trying to figure out which component caused it all to come undone. The slave, the weak centering shaft/shoulder in the fly wheel, or the flow restrictor clutch line putting extra heat into the fly wheel. My flywheel was absolutely cooked when I took it off.
 
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Also welcome to the forum OP! You got a crazy deal on that car if its been well taken care of. Very nice they threw in the Cobb AP
 
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I guess 105k is alright then haha.

Were you using the stock clutch line? I'm still scratching my head trying to figure out which component caused it all to come undone. The slave, the weak centering shaft/shoulder in the fly wheel, or the flow restrictor clutch line putting extra heat into the fly wheel. My flywheel was absolutely cooked when I took it off.
I am guessing from the failure and the aftermath, it was the slave cylinder which gave up.
 
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Anyone have any advice on what to do and what not to do?
Downshift from 5th or 6th to accelerate, so rpms are closer to 3000... google LSPI (low speed pre-ignition). See if you have a catch can installed and drain it when you change the oil. Uhm... drive safely and have fun!
 
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Discussion Starter #9
I'm not really a new owner anymore but still within my first year of ST. My ST2 had 105,000 on it when i bought it and so far I've broke the Dual Mass Fly Wheel, slave cylinder, shift fork, and the turbo went bad.

But don't worry. This wont happen to you. I can trace the turbo back to the previous owner's bad garage choice and the clutch failure back to a flawed ford design + rough driving.

I would highly recommend 2 things.
1) get JPC braided clutch line. The stock clutch line has a directional restrictor and this is largely the reason my transmission stuff went bad. It makes for very soft/slow clutch response. Combine slow clutch response with high miles, clutch drops, and a weak fly wheel and things are bound to get ugly. People with JPC braided line have far more miles on the stock clutch with less problems.
2) Do not high boost in low rpms. Do not. DOOOO NOT. If you see a little boost on the highway in 6th that's fine, but do not try to hit 26 psi before 2,000 rpm.
I'm not really a new owner anymore but still within my first year of ST. My ST2 had 105,000 on it when i bought it and so far I've broke the Dual Mass Fly Wheel, slave cylinder, shift fork, and the turbo went bad.

But don't worry. This wont happen to you. I can trace the turbo back to the previous owner's bad garage choice and the clutch failure back to a flawed ford design + rough driving.

I would highly recommend 2 things.
1) get JPC braided clutch line. The stock clutch line has a directional restrictor and this is largely the reason my transmission stuff went bad. It makes for very soft/slow clutch response. Combine slow clutch response with high miles, clutch drops, and a weak fly wheel and things are bound to get ugly. People with JPC braided line have far more miles on the stock clutch with less problems.
2) Do not high boost in low rpms. Do not. DOOOO NOT. If you see a little boost on the highway in 6th that's fine, but do not try to hit 26 psi before 2,000 rpm.
Thanks for the advice!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Downshift from 5th or 6th to accelerate, so rpms are closer to 3000... google LSPI (low speed pre-ignition). See if you have a catch can installed and drain it when you change the oil. Uhm... drive safely and have fun!
How do I tell if I have a catch can?
 

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I am guessing from the failure and the aftermath, it was the slave cylinder which gave up.
That was my original thought. I mean once the DMF let go the Slave was absolutely obliterated. which makes forensics difficult. did the slave kill the DMF or did the DMF kill the slave?
Kind of a chicken or the egg situation.
 

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Hello everyone! I’m fairly new to the st world. I got my 2014 focus st3 in October 2020 for $14k. 69k miles and came with Cobb accessport, stage 3 bolt on, and cpe Intercooler. I’m still trying to get used to how the car runs I came from a ‘19 Altima and before a 2010 Tacoma so I’m new to “fast” cars lol. Anyone have any advice on what to do and what not to do? Thank you in advance! View attachment 386829 View attachment 386830
Congrats !! Beautiful car and color.
 

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Welcome aboard Edgar_st3 and congrats on the new "fast" ride. Use top tier 93 fuel. Check your spark plugs for gap every other oil change, and in fact you should probably change them right away unless they look new. ST's are very sensitive to fuel and plug gaps, which tend to open quickly compared to "slow" cars.

You should also go ahead and do a log on your AP for a peace of mind health check and post it in the proper thread linked below. Do you know if you are using Off The Shelf (OTS) tune on your AP or if it's a custom tune?

 

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Very nice... Here's my baby...
 
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