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Discussion Starter #1
I recently went to emissions testing in Tennessee and my Focus failed it. They stated it was because the monitors were not ready: Catalyst, Evaporative system, Oxygen sensor, and Heated oxygen sensor. I do not have any check engine lights on currently. I do have a SCT Unleashed tune since a 3" Cobb downpipe and exhaust was installed.

Have others had the same issue after flashing a tune to their ST? If I flash it back to stock, how long until the sensors will be "ready"? How am I able to view the readiness of my sensors before I go back to the emissions test? Will a SCT tuner tell me?

Thanks in advance.
 

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I had the same thing happen here in Texas (with a Panda Motorworks tune). I flashed back to stock and drove about 50 miles, passed retest with no issues. I've been through this twice, so now just try and remember to flash to stock about a week before emissions test to allow a couple cycles of hot/cool. My mechanic has seen cars take multiple cycles to reset. Smaller shops can hookup and check your sensors prior to entering your vehicle info for the true test (at least here in TX). Don't know if your SCT will tell you.
 

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Whenever you flash, aftermarket or stock tune, the emissions readiness counters get reset and you have to complete the Ford Drive Cycle to get them to all set to Ready.

Ford Motor Company Driving Cycle

Hope that helps,
Mark
 

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Also "stage 3" tunes with a downpipe, usually shut the rear o2 sensor off...which is why the readiness monitor will never be "ready" despite completing a drive cycle. You can flash back to stock tune like you said and complete the drive cycle. With a catted DP you should be alright/able to get the readiness monitor to "ready" status but if you're running a catless DP, you'll obviously throw a CEL.

My preference, especially since flashing to stock tune isn't an option for me (BT), is to run a defouler and ask tuner to turn the readiness monitor to "on" and complete the drive cycle cycle/ensure the readiness monitor is set to "ready" before going to get inspected.

Not sure if all this is possible with the SCT though.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have a catted DP. I'll put it back stock but how many miles does it take to reset? I drive 80 miles each day, to and from work so I imagine it should only take a few days.
 

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I have a catted DP. I'll put it back stock but how many miles does it take to reset? I drive 80 miles each day, to and from work so I imagine it should only take a few days.
Catted high flow DP will still throw a P0430 code for catalyst efficiency.
 

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I have a catted DP. I'll put it back stock but how many miles does it take to reset? I drive 80 miles each day, to and from work so I imagine it should only take a few days.
its not necessarily about how far you drive, its about the kind of driving you do, the car needs to see a set of very specific driving conditions before all the readiness monitors have been completed. on average, most driving will get this done between 2 days and a week.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So after a couple of days driving on a stock tune, I ended up getting a check engine light. I used my tuner to read the DTC and it's throwing a P0420 (Catalyst System efficiency below threshold [bank 1])

I know my car is running rich but I cannot get my car tested if theres a check engine light. If I clear out the codes, will it also clear out my "ready" status? Would it be possible to complete an emission test after driving 80 miles?
 

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So after a couple of days driving on a stock tune, I ended up getting a check engine light. I used my tuner to read the DTC and it's throwing a P0420 (Catalyst System efficiency below threshold [bank 1])

I know my car is running rich but I cannot get my car tested if theres a check engine light. If I clear out the codes, will it also clear out my "ready" status? Would it be possible to complete an emission test after driving 80 miles?
youre throwing a code because it has an aftermarket high flow cat. Your tune is probably disabling the rear o2 readiness in the tune itself so you wont be able to run that and get it to pass.. your only real option is to either put the stock DP back on and clear the code and drive it until ready again, or try some defoulers... people have good luck with defoulers pulling the o2's out of the stream which keeps them in the right spec to not throw a code. If it were me this is the first thing i'd try.

and for future reference, aftermarket downpipes with high flow cats arent emissions legal. Most are a 200-400 cell cat vs the stock 800 cell cat.
 

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So after a couple of days driving on a stock tune, I ended up getting a check engine light. I used my tuner to read the DTC and it's throwing a P0420 (Catalyst System efficiency below threshold [bank 1])

I know my car is running rich but I cannot get my car tested if theres a check engine light. If I clear out the codes, will it also clear out my "ready" status? Would it be possible to complete an emission test after driving 80 miles?
heres a good read for you

http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-performance/33006-defouler-who-using-one.html

looking over that thread.. the consensus seems to be that this is what you need https://www.amazon.com/Vibrant-11620-J-Style-Oxygen-Thread/dp/B002U70614/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1442118460&sr=1-1&keywords=vibrant+11620
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I read over that thread, some good information in there. I ended up ordering this J-Style Defouler as it seemed widely used. I read the reviews and there's a number of Focus ST users who gave it a 5-star rating. I also didn't know a drive cycle is 42-46mph for 10 minutes, I'll have to try that before head to a shop to verify that the sensor is in a "ready" state. I will be getting it in a few days and installed. I'll post an update after installation and see if I can pass.
 

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I read over that thread, some good information in there. I ended up ordering this J-Style Defouler as it seemed widely used. I read the reviews and there's a number of Focus ST users who gave it a 5-star rating. I also didn't know a drive cycle is 42-46mph for 10 minutes, I'll have to try that before head to a shop to verify that the sensor is in a "ready" state. I will be getting it in a few days and installed. I'll post an update after installation and see if I can pass.
good deal, let us know how it goes... i think you'll be fine. You can likely flash back to a stage 2 map if you want for a temp tune while doing the drive to reset the readiness on the sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just wanted to give an update. I receive the defouler and will install it as soon as I can. I've read some of the Amazon reviews for this particular one and found that a number of Focus ST users used the smaller hole insert, so I'll try that. I will give another update after I installed it and see if it'll help with passing my emissions.

0425171856.jpg
 

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Just wanted to give an update. I receive the defouler and will install it as soon as I can. I've read some of the Amazon reviews for this particular one and found that a number of Focus ST users used the smaller hole insert, so I'll try that. I will give another update after I installed it and see if it'll help with passing my emissions.

View attachment 235657
good stuff! looking forward to the updates
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I finally got it installed.

First, I placed the smallest insert and then placed the snap ring to keep it from moving
0427172114.jpg

Then removed the air sensor (which is a size 20mm) and luckily the thermal cover was bendable, so I was able to screw on the J-joint by pushing up on the cover. I moved the nut up the threads to about how much the sensor was screwed into the DP. The nut was actually about 25mm for me.
0427172243.jpg

Placed the washer that was provided with the defouler on the sensor, I also noticed mine already had one, but I left it on after applying some loctite
0427172243a.jpg

Then I was able to screw in the sensor. I made sure it was angled to ensure condensation doesn't build up in the joint and that it would drain into the DP.
0427172250_Burst04.jpg

I'm not 100% sure what the drive cycle of the focus is. I'll drive it to work tomorrow on my stock tune, check for the engine light to come on and then get my "ready" status read at a mechanic shop before I head back to emissions testing. I'll post an update afterwards.
 

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Is a defouler only used for the emissions test? Once the test is over is the defouler taken off?


Sent by electronic courier pigeon.
 

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I finally got it installed.

First, I placed the smallest insert and then placed the snap ring to keep it from moving
View attachment 235929

Then removed the air sensor (which is a size 20mm) and luckily the thermal cover was bendable, so I was able to screw on the J-joint by pushing up on the cover. I moved the nut up the threads to about how much the sensor was screwed into the DP. The nut was actually about 25mm for me.
View attachment 235937

Placed the washer that was provided with the defouler on the sensor, I also noticed mine already had one, but I left it on after applying some loctite
View attachment 235945

Then I was able to screw in the sensor. I made sure it was angled to ensure condensation doesn't build up in the joint and that it would drain into the DP.
View attachment 235953

I'm not 100% sure what the drive cycle of the focus is. I'll drive it to work tomorrow on my stock tune, check for the engine light to come on and then get my "ready" status read at a mechanic shop before I head back to emissions testing. I'll post an update afterwards.
cant you read readyness via the apv3?
 

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**Disclaimer: Vivid Racing in no way endorses or recommends tampering with any emissions control device.**

A lot of tunes with make the disabled readiness monitor show "Not ready" or "N/A" when checked during an emissions test. In most states vehicles are allowed 1 monitor to be "Not Ready" and still pass. There are a few states (Cali is one) that specify the "Not Ready" Monitor cannot be a Catalyst monitor.

In the past having a system show "N/A" didn't throw a flag until a certain manufacturer was caught cheating their emissions on their diesel vehicles and a software update was quickly developed to allow the test center to compare your enabled systems monitors to what the OE's show as being enabled from the factory.

In short, to be sure you there won't be any issues with the plug in portion of the emissions test, check your monitors and make sure they show ready and there are no monitors that have been disabled.
 
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