So it comes to this. Auto manufacturers have all but abandoned us. Electrical vehicles and discontinuation of internal combustion engines (even if the general public has zero clue as to how electricity is produced) is leaving our platform lacking for new products & innovations.
This is where community driven projects come into play. But let's face it, performance projects are fun and maintains isn't sexy. In fact it can be a real pain in the ass. The fact we are forced to re-engineer systems that are there solely out of regulation is pretty f-ing ridiculous if you ask me.
But here we are...
If you're not familiar with purge valves and the issues they can cause I suggest you take the time to read through the original post. It covers issues, fixes and detailed part numbers. I'm not going to rehash the info in this post. So take the time to read through this 3 part post before moving on.
The Purge (Valve): FUFF ([email protected]#% you ford fix) parts 1, 2...
*Update 04/28/21 - P0456 DTC and collapsed fuel tank example w/temporary emergency fix on post #72 *Update 05/22 - FUFF 2.5 Part 1: So I was this contemplating just how I was going to approach this particular topic. Do my normal overly technical explanation? Start off with a meaningful antidote...
www.focusst.org
I have been screwing around with the purge valve on our ST's as I felt that Ford was only interested in carrying the platform over the factory warranty finish line. Dealerships lose interest the moment your check clears and aftermarket components have an attention span that you can measure in nanoseconds.
The valve is a complete and total POS that is used by about a dozen different manufacturers. Shock, thermal cycling, aren't really as much of an issue as originally thought. The true reason for failure is two fold.
1. Debris from the fuel tank and charcoal canister contaminates the internal valve seal.
2. Excessive boost pressure from the intake manifold escapes the cheapest check valve in existence (which also has been exposed to the same contamination of the purge valve).
The combination of dirt and boost slamming & holding the purge valve closed rapidly shortens the lifespan of this turd. Once failed the common indicators are rough idle, misfires, strange fuel trims, hard / no starts. In some extreme cases topping off tanks with failed purge valves can pull liquid fuel into the charcoal canister destroying it.
Failure to replace this purge valve can even result in engine vacuum crushing your fuel rank. Ford's answer is a visual inspection and PCM reflash which does nothing to resolve the problem. It will trigger a DTC (diagnostic trouble code) telling you that the fuel tank is destroyed. Thanks Ford.
My original design was to used the existing Ford assembly but modified it to allow for future repairs without replacing the entire thing. The valve is pretty universal and inexpensive to source, but some found the fix difficult to do and others just wanted to pigeon it.
*Pigeon = someone that flies in, ****s all over the work of other people without adding anything constructive and then flies away. 🤣
But truthfully no everyone wants to stand for 10 minutes and boil nylon tubing, plus the added potential of messing up would leave them scrambling to find additional parts for the repair. No fun at all...
So here is the final version of the (F&#K YOU FORD FIX) F.U.F.F 2.5. This replacement can be built entirely without any Ford parts if needed. It is easily made, repaired and modified to fit your ST. The factory assemblies are getting harder to source, ship and considerably more expensive.
This entire project is modular so don't be afraid to adjust or change something to meet your individual needs. I will provide descriptions of the necessary materials and you can source your favorite brands. For mine I used a brand I found on Amazon call Evil Energy, but again you can go with whatever to would like of fits you budget.
F.U.F.F 2.5 materials list:
1 x - 6AN 90 Degree Push Lock Hose Fitting End Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F3QSW7Z/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_6JVCGAMYTDVCSJ8BRBGN?psc=1
2 x - 6AN Male Flare To 3/8" SAE Quick-Disconnect Female Push-On EFI Fitting Aluminum https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FKB9TFJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_9F3KWTNSCZC7PXSAKXZV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
2 x - 6AN Flare Cap Tube Fitting Hex Head Port Fitting Adapter 2PCS Aluminum https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0895RQ8QH/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_G1JTTJVCA51XKW1FK25F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
3 x - 6AN Straight Push Lock Hose Fitting End Black 2PCS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NYMGWCM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_XDM131WTRVT76DB1GMYF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
1 x - 6AN to 1/8 NPT Male 90 Degree Fitting Adapter Aluminum https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09D3T3C9R/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_81HDZ3RCFPSX1JSW6GZN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
1 x - AN 6 Oil Fuel Filter, Male to Male Aluminum Body 30 Micron Brass Filter Element Black Inline https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08F59PVXW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_YC98W09GK972RAFAZAY9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
1 x - 3/8'' 10mm One Way Fuel Line Check Valve Non Return Diesel Aluminium Black Pack of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JJ1F79D/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_FHXMX63FK2MY4GZXWQ4E
1 x - EVIL ENERGY 3/8 Fuel Hose Line NBR Rubber 30R7 5FT 300 PSI
1 x Sound Symposer delete plate with 1/8th NTP port.
1 x DYWISHKEY 304 Stainless Steel Single Ear Hose Clamps with Pincers Kit (90 PCS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MX9DKNK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_MTA858C9HXQRJ7T3M28D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
1 x pack 3/8" fuel injection clamps
(Optional) 1 x - Black Aluminum Anodized -6 AN Male to Female -6 AN with 1/8" NPT Gauge/Gage Port Hose Tube Adaptors Fitting Pressure Take Off https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CJW6CDN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_4KZ1E3VWXFZWW8990DHN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Step one:
Following the original F.U.F.F post remove the old purge valve assembly. From the end of the intake manifold. Attach the 3/8" EFI quick disconnect by sliding the blue locking tab over the purge valve nipple. (You will feel it click. Attach the *cap to the quick disconnect and slide it over one to the nipple until it locks into place. This manifold connection point is now blocked off. *Please see optional connections later in this post. (Tighten Cap to 150 in/lbs or 12 ft/lbs before installing fitting)
Step two:
Using thread sealant install the 1/8" NTP to 6AN 90 Degree port to the Sound symposer delete plate. Clock the AN fitting towards the purge valve.
Step three:
Cut roughly 5 1/2" of 3/8" FI hose and press it onto on of the straight Push Lock connectors. (This will be very difficult so take your time)
Note: I personally used black nylon weaving & heat shrink for my personal assembly but you can do whatever meets you needs. If you've read any of my stuff here you know that I overkill everything I do.
(Please note the direction of the check valve. The arrow should be pointing towards the intake manifold as this is the direction of the vacuum flow)
Step four:
Now while the the push lock fitting is very tight once seated these next two connections are important as they represent the "high pressure" side of the purge valve assembly. From the SS delete to the check valve this section will see manifold pressure. For this I used Oetiker clamps or pinch clamps similar to what manufacturers use. They are a guarantee against these connector releasing under boost.
*If you choose to use any other style of clamps please size according. The kit I purchased from Amazon in the link above supplied the pinch tool and enough clamps for this project. I prefer these over worm style clamps as they apply force evenly round the surface and they come in sizes from 18" down to 3/8" (15.3 - 18.5 mm is the size I used.)
After crimping the straight AN6 fitting slide another clamp onto the hose and insert the check valve with the arrow pointing towards the intake manifold. The arrow dictates the direction of flow under vacuum. This check valve has a pressure rating around 6 BAR (87 PSI) but I tested it to 90 PSI for 30 minutes.
The factory plastic valve (new) has been known leak above 20 and lower when dirty.
Step five:
Cut another length of hose roughly 5 1/2" and attach it to the check valve. I personally crimped both sides of the check valve just to make sure the assembly was solid even though this is considered the low pressure side.
The opposite end is applied over the purge valve outlet. This is where the fuel injection hose clamps are used to allow valve replacement. As of this post the valve itself is still available at numerous vendors between $25 - $30 USD. Reuse the factory bracket and rubber isolator mount.
Step six:
Working backwards now. Remove the remaining factory assembly (if not previously done) and follow the steps for attaching the 3/8" EFI quick disconnect onto the factory steel purge line at the firewall.
Step seven:
Cut a 2" length of hose and press it onto the 6AN 90 degree push lock fitting. On the opposite end press another 6 AN straight push lock fitting. Screw the 30 Micron service filter into the straight AN fitting.
*Please note that this filter while optional is highly suggested to prevent contamination from entering the purge & check valves. It can be removed, cleaned and even rebuilt as part of a scheduled maintenance.
Step eight:
Taking the remaining hose and attach it to the last straight 6AN push lock fitting. Trim this to length to fit over the purge valve inlet. Use another 3/8" fuel injection clamp to secure it to the valve.
(The INLET of the filter should be pointed towards the firewall & the OUTLET towards the purge valve.)
Step nine:
Thread the 90 Degree fitting onto the 3/8" quick disconnect. Tightened all AN to around 150 in/lbs or 12 ft/lbs. Do not over tighten. Aluminum is soft and can be easily over tightened.
Step ten:
Tell Ford to kiss your happy ass!
Now here's the deal. This project is yours from this point on. Make it yours and improve upon it. This is my last big contribution for awhile until I'm fully recovered. I will always be available to anyone that needs help. All I ask is if you improve on it you add to this post so others may benefit from your work.This is the only price that I ask you pay.
*Optional connections
Some members use their SS delete plate to reference boost for WMI or to run a true vacuum source for the BOV. You can use this fitting for these or for a pressure switch. Also for those the run charge pipes where the BOV is closer to the throttle body you can now use the original purge valve manifold port for the same reference signal.
Semper Fi and Stay Safe!
SSGTJROBERTSON
