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2016 ST1
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So a few weeks back I started getting a squeaking noise occasionally when starting in 1st on a hill. It slowly progressed into more of a tapping sound with a squeak, which then stops once driving. It seems to only happen when the engine is under load. Sometimes it doesn't do it at all, but it definitely progressed to where when it does it its louder than it was at first. I finally got under the car and the downpipe hanger was a bit ripped so I replaced that, thinking it was it, but it still is doing it. When under the car I found that part of the exhaust looks like it is touching one of the the metal cross bars, and this would definitely match the sound of what I am hearing since it sounds like metal on metal rubbing/squeaking. I attached pics, is it normal for the exhaust to be this close to that bar, and if not, is there another hangar mid way that supports this? I checked the back hangars and they look fine, as well as the heatshield. Im thinking it definitely has to be this spot, it matches exactly where it sounds like the noise is coming from which is right below the compartment in the center console/right in front of the rear seats. I have a cobb catback exhaust and DP racing downpipe on the car for years and never had an issue with it until just recently.
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No it's not normal. Does your exhaust used slip joints and band clamps? If so. You can probably loosen a few of them up, put a floor jack under the muffler and jack it up and retighten to get more clearance. Or put washers between the bracket and the body to space the bracket down.
 

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2016 ST2, Shadow Black, E30, MonsterFMIC, GFB DVX+ BPV, ALEX' ShiftBushings, PCV-OCC, Innovative RMM
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There's a hangar after the pipe bend toward the rear of the car, I'd take a close look at that one and probably replace it.
 

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Do what @TurboGT said, your exhaust isn't adjusted correctly.

If its not a slip joint setup and you can't easily change the exhaust, you can simply remove that brace. Its not essential and has very little effect on the dynamics of the car. I stripped out on of those bolts a while back and personally I couldn't tell the difference with or without that brace.
 

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Do what @TurboGT said, your exhaust isn't adjusted correctly.

If its not a slip joint setup and you can't easily change the exhaust, you can simply remove that brace. Its not essential and has very little effect on the dynamics of the car. I stripped out on of those bolts a while back and personally I couldn't tell the difference with or without that brace.
I busted a bolt off in mine a few months back and can't tell a difference without it. Someday I might put it back on if I get bored. lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the replies! Ended up getting back under the car this morning and sure enough its the mid pipe hanger, not a slip joint setup. Weird actually looks semi melted or something and is definitely split. I could take the brace out i guess, but more worried the extra vibration from this hanger would cause issues down the line with screwing the other ones up. Anyone change this hanger ever? Is it something easy enough to do without taking apart the whole exhaust? I'm thinking of buying the hangers and bringing to a local shop and having them just do it if its not easy enough to do without taking apart, I used to have access to a lift and no longer do or else I would definitely try it myself, feel like this would be a ***** without a lift lol.
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That hanger actually pops into a hole above it and twists 90 degrees to lock in place. I replaced mine with the car on the ground without too much trouble. I did use a new OEM Ford one though which is pretty flexible. You’d probably have a much harder time replacing it if you go with one of the poly options.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So ended up digging through my old parts and found the stock hanger and was able to do it on the ground. Was pretty annoying, but got lucky with some channel locks and it went in eventually. Definitely a lot more flexible. Took it for a ride after and still making the same noise lol, so only thing I could think is the cobb one being stiffer held it just high enough so that it didn't hit until it finally was broken and it dropped. I definitely would never be able to put a new cobb one on without taking apart the exhaust. That support brace that its hitting is really totally useless? After this I'm pissed and ready to just rip the thing off. Thinking that or either just grinding out a spot on it right where the exhaust would touch so it doesn't hit. Anyone think its worth trying to grind it out first? Or is just a waste of time and totally not even needed on? Thanks again for all the input. Figured id just include a pic of the stock one back on.
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I've seen at least 1 brace notched in recent memory, and also see folks just saying take it off.

I would probably try to leave it and adjust the exhaust if possible. If not, notch it.

Personal preference I suppose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've seen at least 1 brace notched in recent memory, and also see folks just saying take it off.

I would probably try to leave it and adjust the exhaust if possible. If not, notch it.

Personal preference I suppose.
Do you know if there's anywhere to actually adjust it? Like you said earlier without having the slip joints I don't see anywhere I could adjust it or tigthen it. If I use a jack I can get it like 2 inches away from the brace without even cranking it, but I don't see anywhere it's even adjustable to tighten. I'm thinking of just notching the brace tomorrow, it shouldn't take long in the end but if there's an adjustment spot I would definitely try first.
 
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