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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had a CVF high flow downpipe on for awhile now, with stock catback exhaust and 2.5-3" adapter plate.
I used new Ford fire ring and flange gaskets, new VBand clamp, plus a generic slotted gasket on the 3" downpipe flange side.

Sometimes I get exhaust smells, mainly cruising at legalish speeds on longer trips. I'm thinking it's mainly the generic 3" flange gasket leaking, but not sure why it smells that much even on recirculate at speed?!

Anyways, I was looking for better gaskets and was wondering if anyone has experience with Remflex graphite gaskets?

COLLECTOR/CONNECTOR Flange Exhaust Gasket

 

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I've had a CVF high flow downpipe on for awhile now, with stock catback exhaust and 2.5-3" adapter plate.
I used new Ford fire ring and flange gaskets, new VBand clamp, plus a generic slotted gasket on the 3" downpipe flange side.

Sometimes I get exhaust smells, mainly cruising at legalish speeds on longer trips. I'm thinking it's mainly the generic 3" flange gasket leaking, but not sure why it smells that much even on recirculate at speed?!

Anyways, I was looking for better gaskets and was wondering if anyone has experience with Remflex graphite gaskets?

COLLECTOR/CONNECTOR Flange Exhaust Gasket

These are what I used when I did my turbo swap; I'm running a 3" down pipe to a 2 1/2" exhaust using a reducer in between.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Look for the black soot. That will tell you where the leak is. You need a gasket on the 2 1/2” side too. Is it a catless DP?
High flow catted.

I had it apart once, hard to see any telltale soot.

2.5 side is stock Ford gasket.

The 3" generic flange gasket is most suspect, very thin section around oval bolt holes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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I've had a CVF high flow downpipe on for awhile now, with stock catback exhaust and 2.5-3" adapter plate.
I used new Ford fire ring and flange gaskets, new VBand clamp, plus a generic slotted gasket on the 3" downpipe flange side.

Sometimes I get exhaust smells, mainly cruising at legalish speeds on longer trips. I'm thinking it's mainly the generic 3" flange gasket leaking, but not sure why it smells that much even on recirculate at speed?!

Anyways, I was looking for better gaskets and was wondering if anyone has experience with Remflex graphite gaskets?

COLLECTOR/CONNECTOR Flange Exhaust Gasket

I'm running one and it's solid. It came in a 2 pack and the other one is sitting in my tool box.
 
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Agreed to check for an 'escape path'. What I was 'forced to do' with my old Subaru that somehow couldn't couple properly with any exhaust was to use high-temp copper gasket sealer. It was solid for a couple years after that, and that included a few rallycross events! Unfortunately, not all of that car survived the brutality, lol.
 

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It is hard to get centered those gaskets. You can’t let it hang on the bolts, had to get my fingers all around to make sure it didn’t stick out more on one side than the other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It is hard to get centered those gaskets. You can’t let it hang on the bolts, had to get my fingers all around to make sure it didn’t stick out more on one side than the other.
Yep, I tried just snugging the bolts and going slow for the best alignment but still think it's an issue with the flat plate adapter.

I could use a different style adapter, but trying to avoid more drilling, cutting, etc.
The stock catback has studs that aren't that long. 😕
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Anyone know how the exhaust smell gets in the cabin when on recirculate?
 

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Anyone know how the exhaust smell gets in the cabin when on recirculate?
Likely the front or rear of the downpipe getting into the shifter area. You can either seal one or the other, or both! I found a pretty significant cabin calmness once I sealed the shifter area under all of the interior plastics. Used FatMat, or equivalent, to 'sound deaden' the cabin. Trunk/boot/whatever was another focus from the exhaust, but you're more than likely dealing with a leak upstream of the actual muffler.
 

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Anyone know how the exhaust smell gets in the cabin when on recirculate?
Probably the fast food you had for lunch.


I'll 2nd what smokin Joe said. IF the gasket on question is in fact the source of the leak, and you continue to have issues with this area, ultra copper RTV is something to consider. It is the sole gasket between the cylinder head and turbo headers on my 96 mustang. I was a critic but was told to install them this way. When I blew up the first engine and took them off, there was zero evidence of a leak anywhere. So they got reinstalled on the 2nd engine the same way.

Also I'd be looking for carbon as well before throwing parts, as mentioned above. The Vbands will loosen up as well. I always recheck this after I've had my downpipe off and it always needs retorqued after a few hundred miles.

Also don't rule out the fact that the stock exhaust has a really short tip and the fact that hatchbacks whirl the air around against the hatch. If you have any sort of weather seal issue or something or that nature at the hatch itself, it could be leaking into the cabin from there as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks all for the comments! 😎

I did check and retorque the vband and flange bolts a couple of times already.

I also thought I have the res delete pipe with clamps to check now too. 🤔

I think I'm going to take an everything approach...

Get the 3" Remflex gasket for the downpipe-adapter flange plate side.

Use a LIGHT coating of copper RTV on the stock 2.5 flange and fire ring gaskets.

Use copper RTV as sealer inside both ends of res delete pipe.


... And be on the lookout for a broken-in CPE Stage 2 RMM, if I'm going in that far. Just not liking the 85A Innovative, still more vibes with AC than I like at 900 RPM tuned idle IIRC.


Not sure exactly when I'll get to this, but it will be a priority before another long trip that includes the wife, aka smell, tilt, and g sensor. WOW, that kinda works on more than 1 level! 😉😊😁
 

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I’ve used the remflex gaskets as a bandaid to not being able to align stuff. It works but buy two as they are single use items.

as for finding the leak it should be easy. Engine cold, start it and immediately get under the car and feel each joint. You’ve got about 1-2min before things get hot, plenty of time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So I think the majority of the leaks were the ends of the Res delete pipe. I cleaned the joints well and used ultra copper for sealer between the pipes. Also, I moved the clamps more past the slits and worked ultra copper in both sides.

I took out the adapter and just used the Remflex between 3" downpipe and 2.5" catback.

Some pics of how it came off, was getting dark when I finished.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I took some after pics when I took a quick look.

Couldn't resist putting a dab of copper RTV on the Remflex.

I cleaned and put copper RTV on the inside of the pipe on the res delete joints. It seems to be holding up well.

I think most of the leak was because the 3.5 band clamp wasn't quite large enough to put pressure near the ends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So as far as the smell goes, has that been taken care of?
I'll know more definitively after a longer highway trip next weekend. But initial impressions are very good! 👍

I could even tell a slight difference in the sound with it idling in the driveway after sealing the exhaust.

And WOT on the onramps or getting around slow cars didn't result in inside smells either.
 
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