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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I know there is a lot of threads about this already but I can't find the answer to my problem, I am having problems with idling and misfires and everything has been ruled out except for the evap purge valve and still waiting on a compression test, but today I tested my purge valve with a multimeter, it has continuity and it clicks when I mechanically test it (no I haven't tried the vacuum test because I ran out of time) but the valve clicks like it should, but when I measured the resistance which should be between 14-30ohm it read 0, so can anyone give me a clear answer if the valve is faulty even though it passed other tests. (The multimeter has been also tested beforehand and it is in perfect working condition).
 

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2018 Ford Focus ST1 with a 2867 gen 2
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If it's got more than 25k miles on it just change it. Doesn't matter if it's clicking or not, the stupid valve leaks.
 

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2018 Focus ST Magnetic Metallic
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257 Posts
If you have 0hms resistance on a solenoid, that means its open and potentially has a broken coil. I think you've already identified the issue.

The purge valve is a pretty easy fix as an entire assembly or just the valve itself. Look up "FUFF" and it'll tell you how to replace or modify it for easier replacement in the future. This is a known issue on our platform.
 

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2017 Kona Blue ST1
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you, but for now I'm going to go with the OEM, and I'm going to reuse the old one when that one fails if there is no lines cracked on the old one of course
 

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15 TB Focus ST3
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Thank you, but for now I'm going to go with the OEM, and I'm going to reuse the old one when that one fails if there is no lines cracked on the old one of course
I've found the part widely unavailable atm in oem form, however rockauto lists a preferred oem alternative and is 1/3 of price. Bosch valve, can't tell a difference. What I've most recently put on car even after doing FUFF, because I kept finding the stand alone Amazon/ebay valves to fail even faster than the hardline kit.
 
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