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Discussion Starter #281
can you pull any codes so we can figure out what caused the fail? Dont erase the codes though, thanks!

You mention bone stock at the fail point. Were you ever at any point running a stage 2 or 3 tune but did not have the required parts for those tunes?

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I was running stage 2 Cobb ots map with intake and intercooler but took everything off a few months ago to sell to a friend
 

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Discussion Starter #282
It's at dealer can't pull codes. I did a compression test and cylinder 1 was 40 psi while the other 3 were at 170 psi. Plus that cylinder was full of oil.
 

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It's at dealer can't pull codes. I did a compression test and cylinder 1 was 40 psi while the other 3 were at 170 psi. Plus that cylinder was full of oil.
Blown head gasket

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@Nick,

If our car is performing just fine and shows no symptoms as documented in the wiring splice TSB, are dealers obligated to perform this (or any other I suppose...) recall when the car is brought in for otherwise routine maintenance?

I'm not dissatisfied with my dealer, but if the recall procedure comprises the TSB splice repair and not a replacement of the harness, I confess I am quite nervous about my/most dealer's ability to perform the splice repair to, let's say, carrier-grade standards. It's easy enough to do a bunch of crimps. It's another matter to repair a splice appropriately with solder, heat shrink, and then wrap the harness back up in such a way that it is as waterproof as when it left the factory - without causing collateral damage.

I know this sounds like I am throwing dealers in general under the bus, but that's really not my intention, truly. I'd just like to have the option of not having the recall performed until my car exhibits symptoms.

Is that possible?

Thanks,
Mark
Hey Mark,

Your Ford Dealer is in the best position to answer this for you. I recommend speaking with them.

Thanks for the info Nick! :)
You're welcome! :)

Well guys the motor let go in my car. Lost compression on cylinder 1 at roughly 27000 miles. Sitting at a stop light then bam! There was a bang then a pop then a bunch of smoke all while sitting at idle lol I'm trading it in for something else once the dealer fixes (if they fix) tired of all the trouble I've had with it
Hey Rickybobby,

Shoot me a PM with your name, VIN, mileage, dealer, and best daytime phone number; I'll see how I can help.

Nick
 

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I got an email from NHTSA about the recall for our cars here is the link.
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchResults?refurl=email&searchType=ID&targetCategory=R&searchCriteria.nhtsa_ids=14V495
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :14V495
Manufacturer :Ford Motor Company
Make / Model Years :FORD / 2013-2014
Subject :Engine Wiring Splices may cause Stall
Anybody else seeing this? Click on the link and it does not take you to anything focus st related. But if I try to quote Jon96cobra it changes the message he originally posted to reflects details about the ST

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Anybody else seeing this? Click on the link and it does not take you to anything focus st related. But if I try to quote Jon96cobra it changes the message he originally posted to reflects details about the ST

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Read it and the two attached pdf documents. Nothing like good old Detroit iron with wiring made in Tunisia by a manufacturer who does not keep records for audit. Way to go Ford. How comforting to know Ford really does its due diligence in selecting suppliers. Now I understand the meaning of global platform or lack there of.
 

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burnouTSfirST how did the fix work for you? Did you notice any mpg changes?

My car has started acting up more often now, from once in a while to at least once every day or so ( only ~3.5k miles).

Debating on going through the process of dealer hooking up "button activated data catch tool" to catch when it happens...or just doing the fix myself. I'm pretty noob with soldering, but am a confident wrencher.

I wasn't in the original check for the recall, but it sounds like it isn't over until the final day as to whom might be covered.
After replacing the seven splices with MIL-Spec components (butt connectors and 18 AWG wire), here is my 600 mile update. Once everything was put back together and battery reconnected, I started the car. Upon initial startup, the mini display in the gauge cluster area indicated "Normal Mode" about 2-3 times. After that, I took the car for a drive. During the first 2-3 drive cycles, I was getting the common headlight fault error pop up on the mini display shortly after starting the car. After those drive cycles, the headlight error has yet to return (I have a 2014 model where this was the first time case where I saw the headlight error pop up). I guess this observation may be the body control module running through a series of checks on the system to re-initialize state values since the battery was disconnected for several hours while I replaced the seven splices.

During the first 200 miles post-replacement, my MPGs increased by 2.0 on average. By 600 miles post-replacement, my MPGs increased by 1.1 on average. Driving style, route, gas, and all other variables remained the same during pre-replacement and post-replacement comparisons. As for far as MPG is concerned, I can say that I definately noticed a slight increase between pre-replacement and post-replacement.

As for fixing the minor idle dropping that my car was exhibiting, from my experience and observations there was no discernable difference between pre and post splice replacement. For the first 250 miles or so, I thought I was golden. After that, the idle dropping began to return. That would seem to indicate that resetting the ECU was really helping the most. Once it relearned trims and other parameters, the monkey business with the idle dropping was back in full swing. From about 300-600 miles post-replacement, the idle dropping is becoming more predominately noticable.

I have noticed a new oddity after I drive the car for a while until everything reaches full operating temperature. If I let the car sit for about 45 minutes to an hour and then simply restart the car while in neutral, the car starts right up and RPMs go up normally but when they go down to settle, the RPMs drop too far and then bounce right back up to normal. This was when outside temperatures were in the mid-80s and the AC was on fan setting number 3.

Considering the above, I would conclude that for my car (2014 ST3), replacing all seven splices (using MIL-Spec components and crimps) was not related to the idle drops even though it did have a benefit in slightly increase my overall MPGs. I've just ordered a set of ITV22 plugs and will try them next to see if they help as some others have reported.
 

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After replacing the seven splices with MIL-Spec components (butt connectors and 18 AWG wire), here is my 600 mile update. Once everything was put back together and battery reconnected, I started the car. Upon initial startup, the mini display in the gauge cluster area indicated "Normal Mode" about 2-3 times. After that, I took the car for a drive. During the first 2-3 drive cycles, I was getting the common headlight fault error pop up on the mini display shortly after starting the car. After those drive cycles, the headlight error has yet to return (I have a 2014 model where this was the first time case where I saw the headlight error pop up). I guess this observation may be the body control module running through a series of checks on the system to re-initialize state values since the battery was disconnected for several hours while I replaced the seven splices.

During the first 200 miles post-replacement, my MPGs increased by 2.0 on average. By 600 miles post-replacement, my MPGs increased by 1.1 on average. Driving style, route, gas, and all other variables remained the same during pre-replacement and post-replacement comparisons. As for far as MPG is concerned, I can say that I definately noticed a slight increase between pre-replacement and post-replacement.

As for fixing the minor idle dropping that my car was exhibiting, from my experience and observations there was no discernable difference between pre and post splice replacement. For the first 250 miles or so, I thought I was golden. After that, the idle dropping began to return. That would seem to indicate that resetting the ECU was really helping the most. Once it relearned trims and other parameters, the monkey business with the idle dropping was back in full swing. From about 300-600 miles post-replacement, the idle dropping is becoming more predominately noticable.

I have noticed a new oddity after I drive the car for a while until everything reaches full operating temperature. If I let the car sit for about 45 minutes to an hour and then simply restart the car while in neutral, the car starts right up and RPMs go up normally but when they go down to settle, the RPMs drop too far and then bounce right back up to normal. This was when outside temperatures were in the mid-80s and the AC was on fan setting number 3.

Considering the above, I would conclude that for my car (2014 ST3), replacing all seven splices (using MIL-Spec components and crimps) was not related to the idle drops even though it did have a benefit in slightly increase my overall MPGs. I've just ordered a set of ITV22 plugs and will try them next to see if they help as some others have reported.
I noticed the same thing the other day after doing a KAM reset with the AP3. Rpm level returns to a strong 850 at idle with no fluctuations. After a few days it gets worse and worse till it drops down into the 450-500's again. I think its the learning along with something else. Its almost like something is wrong with the learning process and it making to big of a shift of the parameters. Someone else should try the kam reset and see if it temporarily helps them.

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I have the Turbosmart Dual Port installed, and several times lately I've noticed that the car throws a code, tells me hill start assist isn't working, it needs a service, and then if I try drive it the BOV just stays open constantly. I live in Australia so I don't know if I can have this problem too or if it's something else. Happened before and the dealer told me it was a vac leak but it didn't stop the problem. Any idea? Once I turn the car off and back on the engine code is still there but runs fine.
 

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I have the Turbosmart Dual Port installed, and several times lately I've noticed that the car throws a code, tells me hill start assist isn't working, it needs a service, and then if I try drive it the BOV just stays open constantly. I live in Australia so I don't know if I can have this problem too or if it's something else. Happened before and the dealer told me it was a vac leak but it didn't stop the problem. Any idea? Once I turn the car off and back on the engine code is still there but runs fine.
Hello mate I'm from Oz too, yes we do have the same issue over but not to the same extent. My 2013 Focus ST was stalling with hill assist error etc. I too took mine to Ford's who also said if there is no codes popping up they can't do anything.

I completed the TSB myself 2 days ago (only the 2 splices) and since then issue has gone and the acceleration is it smoother, I have the turbosmart plumbback BOV and the Bluefin ecu reflash, before the torque steer was a nightmare now it's reduced significantly.

I used this guide to complete the work however I removed the airbox assembly too allowing for a little more room
 

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Official video from Ford to the dealers on how to do the recall...your welcome.
Official Focus ST and Ford Escape wiring harness …:
 

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Isn't the recall for a NEW harness though? The TSB was for splice repair. I haven't called to setup my recall appointment yet, but I was understanding the entire harness was to be replaced.
 

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nope, just the two splices in the video above.
 

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Isn't the recall for a NEW harness though? The TSB was for splice repair. I haven't called to setup my recall appointment yet, but I was understanding the entire harness was to be replaced.
Nope the powers that be decided to go this route instead. The TSB and the recall are for same 2 splices but the repair method is different.

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Isn't the recall for a NEW harness though? The TSB was for splice repair. I haven't called to setup my recall appointment yet, but I was understanding the entire harness was to be replaced.
I wish!
That would have cost Ford millions
 

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I noticed the same thing the other day after doing a KAM reset with the AP3. Rpm level returns to a strong 850 at idle with no fluctuations. After a few days it gets worse and worse till it drops down into the 450-500's again. I think its the learning along with something else. Its almost like something is wrong with the learning process and it making to big of a shift of the parameters. Someone else should try the kam reset and see if it temporarily helps them.

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Having the same annoying issues on my May 2014 manufactured 14 ST3 that my 13 ST2 did not have. Has caused me to stall at times after I start up and try to back out of a parking spot or take off from a stop and the idle dropped to 400 or so. Been working with Torrie to try to correct the issue on a tune but the fluctuation still occurs. Even tried replacing the 2 splices from the TSB which changed nothing. Here are datalogs of startup showing the fluctuation: View attachment Attachments_20141125.zip
 
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