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Yesterday, while driving my 2014 ST3 with the AC on and slowing down out of gear the RPMs started to drop and then bounced back up. The car has a little less than 5k on the odometer and average MPG is 24 with a mix of city/highway driving (mostly highway though). Sounds like I need a fix.

That said, I removed the wrap on the harness and located most of the splice points (six out of seven so far). I plan to fix tomorrow and in advance, assembled the attached connection point replacements.

image.jpg
 

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Today, I removed and replaced the seven splice points (the two ones under the intake took longer to fix than the others due to cramped quarters). After pre-assembling the seven replacement splice points ahead of time, it took me about 5 hours to complete which included several breaks.

I'll follow up with a few PICs taken while replacing and also provide updates once I drive the car around for a bit.
 

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Today, I removed and replaced the seven splice points (the two ones under the intake took longer to fix than the others due to cramped quarters). After pre-assembling the seven replacement splice points ahead of time, it took me about 5 hours to complete which included several breaks.

I'll follow up with a few PICs taken while replacing and also provide updates once I drive the car around for a bit.
Well, at least you know it was done right. JP
 

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Today, I removed and replaced the seven splice points (the two ones under the intake took longer to fix than the others due to cramped quarters).
I thougth they were all under the intake, not just the 2 the TSB replaces. Where are the 5 others?
 

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I thougth they were all under the intake, not just the 2 the TSB replaces. Where are the 5 others?
Connectors on paper.

Connectors.jpg

Connectors while still on the stock harness (recommend removing the stock friction/electrical tape by hand).

The TSB replaces S133 and S132 where they are easier to reach. S128 and S127??? are under the intake.

Harness.jpg

When using a heat gun, be sure to also use aluminum foil or something else to serve as a shield. That way, you're only melting the shrink onto the connector that you are installing. Wearing gloves while heating is also a good idea. Note that Raychem connectors also have sealing inserts on each end that require more heat to melt than the shrink itself.

Shrink_Tube.jpg
 

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Thanks a lot @burnouTSfirST!!! I only fixed the two TSB ones but that didnt solve my issue and I was thinking about fixing the other splices but didnt know where to look.
 

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Connectors on paper.

View attachment 62714

Connectors while still on the stock harness (recommend removing the stock friction/electrical tape by hand).

The TSB replaces S133 and S132 where they are easier to reach. S128 and S127??? are under the intake.

View attachment 62715

Thanks for posting the location. I didn't when I did mine. Finally a man with guts to go in the harness

When using a heat gun, be sure to also use aluminum foil or something else to serve as a shield. That way, you're only melting the shrink onto the connector that you are installing. Wearing gloves while heating is also a good idea. Note that Raychem connectors also have sealing inserts on each end that require more heat to melt than the shrink itself.

View attachment 62716

Thanks for posting the locations. I didn't when I did mine. Finally a man with guts to go in the harness
 

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Folks,

I'm not sure if it has anything to do with the aforementioned stalling/shuddering issues, but I just got a notice on my VHR report stating that Notice #: 14S17 ENGINE WIRING SPLICE REPAIR Recall was present.

Also, I got a check engine light at 20400 miles. Haven't put the OBD2 scanner on it yet as I was on my way to work. Figured I'd post.

Thank you.
 

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burnouTSfirST how did the fix work for you? Did you notice any mpg changes?

My car has started acting up more often now, from once in a while to at least once every day or so ( only ~3.5k miles).

Debating on going through the process of dealer hooking up "button activated data catch tool" to catch when it happens...or just doing the fix myself. I'm pretty noob with soldering, but am a confident wrencher.

I wasn't in the original check for the recall, but it sounds like it isn't over until the final day as to whom might be covered.
 

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Has anyone got anything from Ford on this in the mail yet? Still can't get dealership to schedule a fix per the TSB.
 

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Has anyone got anything from Ford on this in the mail yet? Still can't get dealership to schedule a fix per the TSB.
Same situation here; dealer won't perform it until "forced". I still haven't gotten anything in the mail.
 

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Has anyone got anything from Ford on this in the mail yet? Still can't get dealership to schedule a fix per the TSB.
Same situation here; dealer won't perform it until "forced". I still haven't gotten anything in the mail.
Hey Mooshin and lolibater,

If your ST's are included in the recall, your owner letters will be mailed out the week of September 29, 2014.

Nick
 

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Hey Mooshin and lolibater,

If your ST's are included in the recall, your owner letters will be mailed out the week of September 29, 2014.

Nick
@Nick,

If our car is performing just fine and shows no symptoms as documented in the wiring splice TSB, are dealers obligated to perform this (or any other I suppose...) recall when the car is brought in for otherwise routine maintenance?

I'm not dissatisfied with my dealer, but if the recall procedure comprises the TSB splice repair and not a replacement of the harness, I confess I am quite nervous about my/most dealer's ability to perform the splice repair to, let's say, carrier-grade standards. It's easy enough to do a bunch of crimps. It's another matter to repair a splice appropriately with solder, heat shrink, and then wrap the harness back up in such a way that it is as waterproof as when it left the factory - without causing collateral damage.

I know this sounds like I am throwing dealers in general under the bus, but that's really not my intention, truly. I'd just like to have the option of not having the recall performed until my car exhibits symptoms.

Is that possible?

Thanks,
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #277
Well guys the motor let go in my car. Lost compression on cylinder 1 at roughly 27000 miles. Sitting at a stop light then bam! There was a bang then a pop then a bunch of smoke all while sitting at idle lol I'm trading it in for something else once the dealer fixes (if they fix) tired of all the trouble I've had with it
 

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Well guys the motor let go in my car. Lost compression on cylinder 1 at roughly 27000 miles. Sitting at a stop light then bam! There was a bang then a pop then a bunch of smoke all while sitting at idle lol I'm trading it in for something else once the dealer fixes (if they fix) tired of all the trouble I've had with it
Wtf!?!? Were you tuned?

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Bone stock at the time it let go. Ran like new no warning or nothing lol
can you pull any codes so we can figure out what caused the fail? Dont erase the codes though, thanks!

You mention bone stock at the fail point. Were you ever at any point running a stage 2 or 3 tune but did not have the required parts for those tunes?

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