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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello I have been on an MRX EFR setup for a year and done 25K Kms on it with zero issue. I do oil changes every 5K Kms and car never consumes much oil.

As habit I do check my engine oil level 2 times a month. Recently I noticed something unusual that I lost a tad over half quart of oil. Anyways I topped it up and went to the garage for an oil change the next day.

We found out that the Turbo oil drain/ return pipe had a small leak that goes to the sump pan

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So we cleaned the area around the flange/ pipe, did an oil change, started the car, left it to idle then went for a drive got back and rechecked there was no leak.

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My mechanic advised to drive it for a couple of days to see how it goes.

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After a couple of days, I returned to the garage yesterday and it confirmed that there is a tiny leak near the hose pipe that connects to the sump. Turbo side is clean and no leaks. Perhaps the pipe dried up as previously I had not driven the ST for a month being away on vacation. Has anyone with EFR setup faced this issue with the drain return hose pipe? Any better solution?

Am assuming that the hose pipe that Mountune gave is 10AN so for a quick fix I ordered this drain return pipe Oil Drain Return Pipe

Many thanks
 

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I see the flange-to-block has grey RTV on it so I'm going to assume that's not the culprit.

Did you try snugging the hose clamp down any? The issue with the worm gear style clamps is, the rubber underneath loses elasticity and you essentially lose "squeeze" on the hose, requiring retightening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I see the flange-to-block has grey RTV on it so I'm going to assume that's not the culprit.

Did you try snugging the hose clamp down any? The issue with the worm gear style clamps is, the rubber underneath loses elasticity, and you essentially lose "squeeze" on the hose, requiring retightening.
Thank you for the advice, will try snugging the hose clamp down as far as possible. I think our extreme heat may have dried the pipe and those style clamps perhaps worsen the situation.

Well spotted on the RTV. I noticed it too. don't know why the installer did that. Will be replacing that with a proper gasket.
 
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We can see RTV at the flange... is there an OE gasket there? There's no need for RTV with the correct gasket. That could be the cause of your leak right there.

or

Could be that the hose isn't rated for that high of temps, if it's leaking at the hose.

I've thought about making drain lines for these kits. But we'd need to get a MRX kit here, or at least the turbo and the headifold. Here's the drain I whipped up for my EFR on the Full Race headifold.

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Yeah, I'm guessing the hose and clamp are the culprit. Good news is it's only weeping and probably won't lose a dangerous amount of fluid but bad news is it's still leaking.

You can pull the hose and get a new one cut to fit. It will probably do the same thing again. The fancier looking an setup above is a better long term solution.

You can see in this picture the oil is on the clamp. If it was leaking elsewhere I doubt you would see it all over the worm gear like this:
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
We can see RTV at the flange... is there an OE gasket there? There's no need for RTV with the correct gasket. That could be the cause of your leak right there.

or

Could be that the hose isn't rated for that high of temps, if it's leaking at the hose.

I've thought about making drain lines for these kits. But we'd need to get a MRX kit here, or at least the turbo and the headifold. Here's the drain I whipped up for my EFR on the Full Race headifold.

View attachment 409335
View attachment 409334
Thank you. I really like this drain pipe with the NA fittings on the flange. Is that a stainless steel 10NA braided pipe? do you sell this or provide part numbers. let me know please. Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, I'm guessing the hose and clamp are the culprit. Good news is it's only weeping and probably won't lose a dangerous amount of fluid but bad news is it's still leaking.

You can pull the hose and get a new one cut to fit. It will probably do the same thing again. The fancier looking an setup above is a better long term solution.

You can see in this picture the oil is on the clamp. If it was leaking elsewhere I doubt you would see it all over the worm gear like this:
View attachment 409343
Spot on well said. I guess with the weather we have in summer I will end up with the same situation of a leak again. I need to find that setup like Damond Motorsports.

Also saw something like this Oil Return Flexible Steel pipe am wondering if this would work long term.
 
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Thank you. I really like this drain pipe with the NA fittings on the flange. Is that a stainless steel 10NA braided pipe? do you sell this or provide part numbers. let me know please. Cheers
Yeah it's all -10 and SS braided line. This line here would ONLY work with the Full Race kits, since the turbo positioning with the MRX kit is slightly different. I would need to physically get my hands on an MRX kit or just the headifold and turbo to be able to make a line for that, let alone know what angle fittings to use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah it's all -10 and SS braided line. This line here would ONLY work with the Full Race kits, since the turbo positioning with the MRX kit is slightly different. I would need to physically get my hands on an MRX kit or just the headifold and turbo to be able to make a line for that, let alone know what angle fittings to use.
your angle flange fitting from the turbo is 45 degree? how much measurement braided line was used on your setup? will DIY as am located in the Middle east.
 

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your angle flange fitting from the turbo is 45 degree? how much measurement braided line was used on your setup? will DIY as am located in the Middle east.
Yea, looks like one straight and one 45 AN fitting. The length might need to be something you have to trial and error, its very short but also might depend on the fittings you buy, some can vary in length. You can usually buy braided hose in 1' increments, id say start there.

Also, your existing flange, is it just a barb fitting under the hose? I assume the AN version posted above has a mail threaded section welded to the flange instead. EX:
and

I looked at mountune's site for their efr, i dont like the way this thing looks lol:
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See this post, although i dont think sith racing part can be bought any more:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yea, looks like one straight and one 45 AN fitting. The length might need to be something you have to trial and error, its very short but also might depend on the fittings you buy, some can vary in length. You can usually buy braided hose in 1' increments, id say start there.

Also, your existing flange, is it just a barb fitting under the hose? I assume the AN version posted above has a mail threaded section welded to the flange instead. EX:
and

I looked at mountune's site for their efr, i dont like the way this thing looks lol:
View attachment 409364
See this post, although i dont think sith racing part can be bought any more:
Then one that came with my MRX kit is supposedly the newer version from Mountune. Both the flange fitting is BARB. the one from the turbo a long tube angled at 45 degrees from the looks. have a pic from their site.

My only concern with the braided line is that they are stiff compared to the regular high-temp rubber hose i.e less flexibility in the line. don't know if that would be a problem with slight engine vibration.

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Then one that came with my MRX kit is supposedly the newer version from Mountune. Both the flange fitting is BARB. the one from the turbo a long tube angled at 45 degrees from the looks. have a pic from their site.

My only concern with the braided line is that they are stiff compared to the regular high-temp rubber hose i.e less flexibility in the line. don't know if that would be a problem with slight engine vibration.

View attachment 409367
I wouldnt expect vibrations to be a concern. I doubt the braided line will be any more rigid that the thick hose in yours now. AN lines were developed for military and used in racecars after all. Then of course the turbo is mounted solidly to engine, so a line from that to the oil pan, both will be vibrating the same/not flexing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I wouldnt expect vibrations to be a concern. I doubt the braided line will be any more rigid that the thick hose in yours now. AN lines were developed for military and used in racecars after all. Then of course the turbo is mounted solidly to engine, so a line from that to the oil pan, both will be vibrating the same/not flexing.
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Got the parts from the store. Started doing my DIY drain return hose. Turbo side complete, now have to get under the car to measure and get the other side. pic of the current blue drain return hose on my car that came with the mrx kit and the new steel braided hose.
 
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your angle flange fitting from the turbo is 45 degree? how much measurement braided line was used on your setup? will DIY as am located in the Middle east.
Since I'm running the Full Race stuff, not the MRX stuff, it's going to be different. I'm using either a 45 or a 60 on the turbo.

Looking at the MRX setup, you might need 2 x 45's, or a 45 and a 60, or a 30 and a 60, or a 60 and a straight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Since I'm running the Full Race stuff, not the MRX stuff, it's going to be different. I'm using either a 45 or a 60 on the turbo.

Looking at the MRX setup, you might need 2 x 45's, or a 45 and a 60, or a 30 and a 60, or a 60 and a straight.
I had bought a 45 and a straight. But thanks to your post i think i would need 2 x 45. will check once am under the car. cheers.
 
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Last time I had a go at making my own lines for something, bought a kit of different fittings to play with.. and happy I did. Didn't stick with what I thought I needed
Yeah this is the best way to do it. We've got most angles and fittings here, since we build a lot of stuff with AN lines. Takes a lot of guess work out if you've got everything in hand.
 
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