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I finally managed to get her on a dyno today. With the exception of her trying to break free on the second run and the drivers backside going I was really impressed with the results!


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Are you mixing 91 or 93?


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Let me know what shop that is so I never go there and let them attempt to **** up my car.

The front and rear should be tied down, looks like this is just rear.

282/360 are the raw numbers? I see what? Stock exhaust with a catless DP? Whats mods list look like?

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Let me know what shop that is so I never go there and let them attempt to **** up my car.

The front and rear should be tied down, looks like this is just rear.

282/360 are the raw numbers? I see what? Stock exhaust with a catless DP? Whats mods list look like?

View attachment 266458
ditto that was the most retarded **** I've ever seen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Shell Nitro (93) with 4 gallons E85 if I have just been running 93. I have tried different 93's and all seem to lower the octane ratio but this stays at -1 constantly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Not too far from you it was HP down in Katy. They did tie the front end down but I think they should have crossed the straps to stop this happening. If he had just kept his cool it would have sorted itself out.

No the numbers after corrections are WCF ones so 290.9 / 371.4 so I get that to around 334 / 427 if I'm correct with 15% higher to compare to stock 250 / 270? Torque is way higher than expected.

Mods are full stage 3 cobb with magnaflow exhaust I just kept stock tips as I like the look and the fact people think it's stock.
 

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Not too far from you it was HP down in Katy. They did tie the front end down but I think they should have crossed the straps to stop this happening. If he had just kept his cool it would have sorted itself out.

No the numbers after corrections are WCF ones so 290.9 / 371.4 so I get that to around 334 / 427 if I'm correct with 15% higher to compare to stock 250 / 270? Torque is way higher than expected.

Mods are full stage 3 cobb with magnaflow exhaust I just kept stock tips as I like the look and the fact people think it's stock.
Wait, so the WCF numbers should be the real power at the wheels?
 

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WCF - Weather Correction Factor.

AKA let the dyno operator put in whatever factor he feels like for your bragging rights, not that 10hp is a lot, but still... If you don't like the numbers it made, take it back in the winter time, because you made 282/360.
 

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Let me know what shop that is so I never go there and let them attempt to **** up my car.

The front and rear should be tied down, looks like this is just rear.

282/360 are the raw numbers? I see what? Stock exhaust with a catless DP? Whats mods list look like?

View attachment 266458
They did tie the front down, you can see a guy at the front adjusting the strap when the guy in the rear is as well. But it looks like it is only a single strap on the front.
 

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They did tie the front down, you can see a guy at the front adjusting the strap when the guy in the rear is as well. But it looks like it is only a single strap on the front.
Looks like a bunch of kids wandering around. That tie job is sketchy af. Nearly as bad as when my friend had his 1st gen M3 dyno'd... the idjit put the tie down for the rear around the axle halfshafts.
 

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The SAE correction formula was never intended to be used on forced induction engines. The only way to determine a correction factor for forced induction engines is to test it under ideal conditions and use that as the baseline. Similarly, the formula was never intended to be used for major elevation corrections but that doesn't stop shops in Denver from applying 20% corrections. Anyway, corrections are dumb. Do you think your girlfriend/wife cares how long your d*ck could be with Viagra while your in perfect physical condition? No, she cares what it is right now.
 

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Forget all these post about the dyno shop and SAE talk.

With E30 those numbers are average, 30% ethanol is worth about 20 hp over pump gas.

Now tighten/max the preload on your stock wastegate = $free worth about 12-15 hp should hit 300 at the wheels.
 
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Is that safe though, without tuning?
Stratified did it and got this result:

"A Turbosmart actuator on a Focus ST with the OEM K03 turbo will hold over 20psi to redline for example. The OEM actuator will only allow 13-15psi. In experimenting with this we found that holding more boost to redline makes the car quite knock prone even when using E85 mixes and mild timing. The turbo looked to be well out of its efficiency range and we kept dropping the boost until we were at 18psi at redline. Even then the motor was knock prone especially up top. Increasing the boost on the OE turbo in the upper RPM (past 6000RPM) is not worth the penalty in heat and timing reduction especially on pump gas.

Another interesting bit of information was that without modifying the fuelling tables the short term fuel trims (STFT) became quite negative in the upper RPM (in orange in the graph below). The car calculates fueling based on boost pressure/manifold pressure and this drop in STFT indicated that for the boost measured the airflow was actually less than the ECU was calculating and expecting.

This is anTS Actuator stock turboother indication of the lack of efficiency of the K03 at those boost levels. The higher we pushed it in terms of boost, the more negative the trims.
"

And this was the summary they made:
"Conclusion on this? A little bit of extra boost is going to give you a nice bump in midrange torque. Adjusting the preload on the OEM actuator on the Focus ST carefully can give you a little bit more boost, but don’t overdo it. If you modify the boost control system and are not sure of what to look for make sure you have your tuner look over the data coming from the engine after the change. We offer the datalog report service for situations such as these.

Keep a very close eye on knock/timing corrections. This is especially true on pump gas as more boost (especially past 6000RPM) results in more knock. If you have poor pump fuel this may not be worth the penalty you will take in terms of timing and heat/inefficiency. Finally, driving the OEM turbo (or any turbo) to inefficient boost levels is likely to affects its long term reliability.
"
 

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Why would you run it without a tune? You'll get an overboost code... I picked up 1.5 mph in the 1/4 (12-15 hp).

I just noticed you have a tune, all it does is add 1 psi overall but holds it much longer than stock, as stated improving your mid-range power.
 
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