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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've spent many hours researching how to plug wires into other wires and scouring forums and slowly but surely eventually got all the parts I thought I needed to install a bangin' stereo. Then the DSR-1 came out the day after, so I dumped a pile of money into it since it would be easier than going the LC6-i route with the resistors and adding fuses and chopping factory wires. Anyway, I got the DSR-1, my PDX V9, and Alpine Type R components in the doors at the beginning of October and tried putting in the sub last week. I'm still an electronics noob if there ever was one, so I'm having several issues.
The issues:
1. Tremendous static. Even when the radio is off, the speakers still emit tons of static.
2. Speakers pop when the car itself turns on, not the radio. Then again when the radio turns off unless I switch it to a source without an input such as CD and lower the volume to 0.
3. When I turn on the radio, it blares the last source for half a second before returning to the volume it was at last time I used it, unless I have it set to a source with no input, i.e. CD. In that case, it just pings.
4. Subwoofer does not work. Could be the DSR-1, could be the V9, definitely is not my wiring because it is perfect. Probably not, but I followed the instructions from Maestro. The sub is the same 10 year old sub I had in my car in high school. My multimeter says it's still resisting at 2 ohms. No idea if that means it's still good, but I imagine it would still move if it were getting power even if it is sickly or dead.
5. The GPS lady, bluetooth ring tone and text tone are loud as bleep and startle me every time. I set the DSR-1 to play voice controls through the front speakers only and that helped a little.
Does anyone have any suggestions to rememdy these issues? I originally had the amp grounded where the factory sub mounts, but drilled a hole in the floor pan near a factory grommet when I put in the sub. Took a wire wheel to the pain and everything. That didn't help with the static. I do have the power wire running along the passenger side and going through the holes in the support beams where the seats are mounted if that makes a difference. Could be interferring with that bundle of factory wires, but like I said, I'm a noob and know nothing about electricity. Also, my cellphone telephone won't update passed android 5.0.2, so I can't download the perfect tune app and I don't feel like buying a new phone. If someone can help me resolve these issues besides taking it to a pro shop, I'd much appreciate it.
 

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sounds like the gains are way to high on the amp.

as for the sub not working, you really need to have the app so that you can see and adjust the DSR1 settings, then you need to troubleshoot to see where the problem is. try hooking the sub up to a different channel of the amp to see if it makes noise, if it does, then the sub sub should be fine, next try swapping RCAs around to see if you have a bad cable or a bad channel on the amp.

also, did you update the firmware on both the Masetro half and the Rockford half of the DSR1 using two different software apps on the computer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My gains are a little over half way, but I'll turn them down. I'll probably get the tinnitus listening at half volume as it is. I'll try the channel swap as well. I know I updated the Maestro half, but not sure on the Rockford half. I'd find that on the Rockford website, correct?
 

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Must not post my thoughts before coffee...
 
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My gains are a little over half way, but I'll turn them down. I'll probably get the tinnitus listening at half volume as it is. I'll try the channel swap as well. I know I updated the Maestro half, but not sure on the Rockford half. I'd find that on the Rockford website, correct?
Ya you need to get the DSR1 updater software installed and get the latest firmware. Go to RFtech.com and on that page you'll see "DSR1 signal processor - owners manual" under Most Popular Answers. That page has all the info as far as system requirements, different links, and the software that you'll need. And LoudST (The DSR1 Master btw) said you should do this install before the Maestro flash. So after you get it installed go back and reflash your unit on the Maestro site. I bet that cures a lot of your problems. And I'm interested in how you make out with your system because I'm installing the same stuff but with Morel speakers. Especially the static/popping issue. I think your going to need to get that Perfect Tune app tho somehow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I did a channel swap and the sub still didn't move. It could be an issue with the terminal cup. I'll try direct wiring tomorrow and downloading the DSR1 software. After hours of struggle, I was able to download android 7 and get it installed, so I have the perfect tune app. Just have no idea what to do with it, so hopefully the owners manual explains how to tune.
 

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well we've covered how to set it up in a couple of the existing threads about it.

but long story short, here is how I would set it up to start with, first the settings on the amp, adjustments from left to right, top to bottom.



ch-1/2:
GAIN: since 12 o'clock setting is for 0.5 volts and the output the DSR1 is way stronger than that (up to 4 volts) it probably should be set around the first or second line (almost the lowest setting possible) since the manual says that the input range is from 0.2-4.0 volts and the DSR1 can output the max the amp can handle (I have not measured my DSR1 yet so I cant say how accurate that is)

HP FILTER: off

CROSSOVER: does not matter what it is set to cause it is turned off

CH-3/4 input: 3/4


CH-3/4:
GAIN: since 12 o'clock setting is for 0.5 volts and the output the DSR1 is way stronger than that (up to 4 volts) it probably should be set around the first or second line (almost the lowest setting possible) since the manual says that the input range is from 0.2-4.0 volts and the DSR1 can output the max the amp can handle (I have not measured my DSR1 yet so I cant say how accurate that is)

FILTER: off

CROSSOVER: does not matter what it is set to cause it is turned off


SUB W.
GAIN: since 12 o'clock setting is for 0.5 volts and the output the DSR1 is way stronger than that (up to 4 volts) it probably should be set around the first or second line (almost the lowest setting possible) since the manual says that the input range is from 0.1-4.0 volts and the DSR1 can output the max the amp can handle (I have not measured my DSR1 yet so I cant say how accurate that is)

SUBSONIC: set it as low as it can go

LP FILTER: set it as high as it will go

SUB W. INPUT: SUB W.





now for the DSR1 settings

setup:
front + rear + sub

go into "TUNE" then select "ADVANCED", on the left from top to bottom...

TRIM LEVELS: leave them all turned up to 0.0dB

TIME ALIGNMENT: dont mess with this yet

CROSSOVER:
set the fronts to highpass, start around 80hz, and set the slope to 12db per octave
set the rears to the same (assuming that you have two pair of the same Type R speaker front and back)
for your sub (when you get it working) if the sub is in a sealed box, set the crossover to low pass, start around 80hz for a 10" or a 12", 100hz for an 8" and set the slope to 12 db per octave

CHANNEL EQUALIZER: dont mess with this yet


and then you should be done.

when you turn the volume knob up, if the gains are set right, you should be able to turn the volume up to maximum* and the sound should be as clear as day, if there is any distortion at all, do not turn it up any louder and turn the gains lower, if they can not go any lower, then use the TRIM LEVELS page to pull some signal out.

*if the gains are set too high, then turning the volume up to maximum will induce clipping and likely destroy your speakers, proceed with caution.

if by chance, you can turn the volume up to maximum and it is not that loud, then you may need to turn the gain up A TINY BIT AT A TIME.

at this point, the chimes and beeps should also be at a reasonable (but slightly louder that OEM) level. then let us know if the noises/static are gone.
 

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well we've covered how to set it up in a couple of the existing threads about it.

but long story short, here is how I would set it up to start with
Your right, there's too many of these DSR1 threads and it makes it hard to find the info you want. I would be nice if we could consolidate the best parts of each into one sticky. I think it's only going to get worse as more people find out about it when they go to upgrade their system. Just like the resistor thread. Mods is that possible?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So I did the Rockford update and reflashed with the Maestro, followed 1LoudST's directions, and everything is working much better. Still a tiny pop, and upon startup doesn't remember that I turned the volume to 0 last time I turned it off, but no where near as bad as before. The static is still there, but now only on am/fm which I assume means an antenna issue. The only thing left to do is figure out why the sub doesn't work. It passes the battery test and has 2.1 ohms of resistance, but the amp won't move it whether on the sub channel or 4th channel. I'm taking it to a shop on tuesday where they will hopefully find out whats wrong and which of the DSR1, amp, sub, or my wiring skills needs replacing. Thank you everybody!
 

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So I did the Rockford update and reflashed with the Maestro, followed 1LoudST's directions, and everything is working much better. Still a tiny pop, and upon startup doesn't remember that I turned the volume to 0 last time I turned it off, but no where near as bad as before. The static is still there, but now only on am/fm which I assume means an antenna issue. The only thing left to do is figure out why the sub doesn't work. It passes the battery test and has 2.1 ohms of resistance, but the amp won't move it whether on the sub channel or 4th channel. I'm taking it to a shop on tuesday where they will hopefully find out whats wrong and which of the DSR1, amp, sub, or my wiring skills needs replacing. Thank you everybody!
Just curious, did you perform the battery test using the sub wires, disconnected from the amp? This would confirm your wiring is good also. If the 4th channel works on your mids/highs but not on the sub, it's the sub wiring or sub itself (confirmed good using battery test).
 

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one thing to keep in mind about the radio static, is that class D/digital amps can cause a lot of RF interference.

that being said, alpine is usually one of the best shielded and usually doesn't cause a lot of problems, but some amps I've put in would almost completely block out AM and most of FM.
 

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also make sure the PDX speaker wire adapter thing is good. its kind of a weird thing that only those PDX amps use, one time I was hooking up a speaker channel and i stuck the wire in too far or I didn't strip off enough insulation and when the set screw was tightened down, it wasn't touching any copper in the wire. maybe try redoing that one connector just to make sure its golden. as Phokus mentioned, if you unplug it from the amp, and try the battery test on that connector, it would show if there was a problem there
 

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What's this battery test you guys are talking about?
Use a battery such as a 9v across the speaker wires, the speaker should extend or retract based on polarity. If it does, the coil is good, if not, is bad.


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I use a AA battery, solder a thin red and black wire to it, and call it a speaker popper. When you touch the wires to a speakers terminals or the wires that go to the speaker it makes a small pop. Great for basic testing a speaker, finding speaker wires in a harness, or which speaker you have the wires to, or if there is a factory amp after the radio, or even to find the polarity if the speaker wires you have.

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Use a battery such as a 9v across the speaker wires, the speaker should extend or retract based on polarity. If it does, the coil is good, if not, is bad.


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Oh I gotcha. I thought you guys were talking about using the cars battery for some kind of test. ��Lol Thanks
 

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Curious to hear if RenJJ got the issues sorted. I ran a PDX-V9 for a couple years with only minor issues to speak of.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Perhaps I should have checked replies sooner. Yes, it was a problem with the wire connector thing. I put in a new one yesterday and now the sub bangs again. I did not know that digital amps cause interference with am and fm, so that's good to know now. The only thing left to figure out is the popping issue. The subs single thump is startling in the morning when turning on the car.
 

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Perhaps I should have checked replies sooner. Yes, it was a problem with the wire connector thing. I put in a new one yesterday and now the sub bangs again. I did not know that digital amps cause interference with am and fm, so that's good to know now. The only thing left to figure out is the popping issue. The subs single thump is startling in the morning when turning on the car.
The DSR1 says it has an adjustable turn on delay, but I have yet to find it in the settings. Sometimes if the amp turns on too quick, then the source turns on, it can make a "pop" noise. Delaying the amp for a few seconds usually will clear that up.

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