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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I just installed new to me but used dp6 wilwood from another member. The bp10 pads he gave me with it had worn incorrectly because when he disassembled them to powder coat, he reassembled them so the larger bores were not matching and I believe based on how the brake lines were left they were on the wrong side anyways. So to my question: now that I'm sorted out, bled, new rotors and new bp20 pads(thanks a lot for extremely fast shipping!) they are dragging. I bed them and let them cool properly, and used a pressure bleeder to bleed them...any ideas? Thanks for the input. Also, should I be driving the bp20s on the street?
 

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Hi, I just installed new to me but used dp6 wilwood from another member. The bp10 pads he gave me with it had worn incorrectly because when he disassembled them to powder coat, he reassembled them so the larger bores were not matching and I believe based on how the brake lines were left they were on the wrong side anyways. So to my question: now that I'm sorted out, bled, new rotors and new bp20 pads(thanks a lot for extremely fast shipping!) they are dragging. I bed them and let them cool properly, and used a pressure bleeder to bleed them...any ideas? Thanks for the input. Also, should I be driving the bp20s on the street?
If he has never rebuilt them, I'm guessing your seals are worn out and pistons are sticking. Did you grease them?
 

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I didn't, what's the appropriate grease? I've read silicone?
 

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so i got in there and sprayed some brake parts cleaner, some silicon and pushed the pistons back in. they all moved fine, so i moved on to the pads and shims. they are very tight, maybe from the extra layer of powdercoat. So i know what i need to do, go back and check the clearance of all of the pads. I had to file them already just to get them in. Should i use brake parts lube on the edges of the pads? or should they stay dry?
 

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Its called "brake caliper grease." Confusing I know. :haha:

You have shims? I would take the shims out if you have a pad dragging.

If they have never been rebuilt, they need rebuilt every couple years. Its fairly easy and parts can be ordered for $20-30 or you can send them off to Wilwood and have them do it for about $80 each. Mine were leaking.
 

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For the pistons themselves, lube would be either a light spray of silicone or good old brake fluid. Do not use 'grease' or WD40 etc on the rubber seals. Avoid any excessive amount of silicon on the bottom of the piston- just the walls are all that need a bit of lube. Much of that will be pushed back out when you insert the piston anyhow. (and the cups go to the pad side- not to the inside, those are the flat side)

For the sticking...I suspect the powder coat build up is your culprit. File one or both ends of the pads a bit until you can slip them into the ss tension clips with minimal drag. If you have to force them in that's simply too tight a fit.

*I don't even run the clips on the race car as they do create some drag. But beware the pads will rattle and you'll be banging the pad into the aluminum..
 
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