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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have found myself tasked with building a coyote from a 2016 5.0 that recently didn't like boost or winter gas. Car is procharged and belongs to @StormTrooperST Car was running fine and made loads of power. As soon as they switched to winter gas we lost cylinder 8. The factory ring gaps are way too tight. The gap on the compression rings were 0.016. For boost thats no bueno. There was no damage to cylinders or block. This will be a stock bore motor. Cylinders are getting honed only. Motor was removed and now the fun begins. MMR supplied all the forged parts. Motor is getting Manley forged pistons and rods, MMR billet oil and timing gear, all long block bolt are ARP, and MMR upgraded timing chains. Heads will remain stock. Cylinder 8 valves will be replaced and chamber polished. I'm dropping the rotating assembly off tomorrow to be balanced with the new rods/pistons. We are shooting for 900 whp. I will keep you all updated as the build progresses.

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Nice, my local friend Joe Holt is running low 9's @ 15xmph with his TT coyote stock motor and auto trans. This should be quite the capable beast once built.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Nice, my local friend Joe Holt is running low 9's @ 15xmph with his TT coyote stock motor and auto trans. This should be quite the capable beast once built.
Nice, this car is also automatic. Adding a couple pounds of boost and larger injectors and see what it does.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Got bored at work tonight and was browsing the interwebs looking for a tapered ring compressor. After not being able to find the bore size I need for under $60 bucks I said screw it and machined one. Picked up the rotating assembly today and will be honing and pressure washing the block tonight. Assembly will start tomorrow.

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Wow, looks like a fun build.

Just out of curiosity, which compressor and tune? P1SC and canned procharger tune?

I feel like these things shouldn't be tuned so close to the ragged edge that a switch to winter formulation causes them to grenade...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wow, looks like a fun build.

Just out of curiosity, which compressor and tune? P1SC and canned procharger tune?

I feel like these things shouldn't be tuned so close to the ragged edge that a switch to winter formulation causes them to grenade...
The shouldn't be boosted at 11:1 compression with cast pistons and rods LOL. The ring gap was too tight and the extra heat and a little knock popped it. This was the infamous cylinder 8. I went to the dealer to get parts and they had 2 new Mustangs with blown cylinder 8 with just tunes. We are installing the coolant bypass mod on the motor. There was a safe low timing tune in it with the P1SC at 9 lbs
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Short block is done. All bearings are in spec and rings are gapped. Crank thrust is also in spec. Red things in the pics are oil squirter deletes. Went together smoothly.

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Discussion Starter #11
Why delete the piston cooling jets/oil squirters? Going with coated pistons and trying to increase oil pressure to the rod bearings then eh?
Yes without them you get more oil pressure to the rod and main bearings. They dont clear the piston skirt either. The Boss and Ford Performance crate motors do not have squirters. According to MMR they are there to warm the pistons faster on cold starts. Some 11-12 coyote blocks didnt come with them either.
 

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Yes without them you get more oil pressure to the rod and main bearings. They dont clear the piston skirt either. The Boss and Ford Performance crate motors do not have squirters. According to MMR they are there to warm the pistons faster on cold starts. Some 11-12 coyote blocks didnt come with them either.
I don't think squirting ice cold, or at least ambient when the temperatures are warmer than freezing, motor oil will warm the pistons faster on cold starts.

Piston cooling jets are intended to cool/quench the under-dome of the piston with oil to cool the aluminum from the heat of combustion. From the first few revolutions of the crank and after each cylinder fires for the first time the engine starts heating up from it's coldest point.

Now mind you that comes at the expense of diverting pressure from the bearings, but at the same time can help somewhat to prevent detonation by cooling the piston. With coatings and such it may resist heat the same or better even without them functioning, but I understand why they are there in the stock application and the possible advantages/disadvantages to removing them for more lubrication to the bearings when going for more power than stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It's done and runs great. head cooling mod has it at 15 degrees cooler. Lower compression and no sign of knock. It didn't have one issue and started first shot after priming. The owner is going to put a couple hundred miles on it then we change the pulley and injectors and tune for power.

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