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OK, so I'm re-uploading the thread from "The Muffin Man" but putting the pictures on Imgur so they're usable and editing the wording to be an instructional thread.
Just an FYI, I have not done this yet, I was one of the unfortunate few who was hoping to be able to see the thread he uploaded but due to photobucket being junk I couldn’t see anything. So here is his post and photos with some edits.


Tools and Supplies Needed:
1. 7mm socket
2. T25 torx bit
3. 10mm deep socket
4. Plastic panel tool
5. Wire strippers
6. Heat gun (optional but preferred, could use a hair dryer)
7. Soldering iron and solder
8. Meter (unless you're just going to trust me, I never recommend trusting forums, always test)
9. Wire fish tool or coat hanger will do I suppose
10. 3m double sided tape. Don’t get thick stuff. Need to find something relatively thin
11. Black tape (or heat shrink if you're anal like me)
12. Self-tapping screw (very short, no longer than 1/2")
13. female RCA end with bare wires (you can cut an RCA off of a harness like I did)
14. Female pin connectors for the plug which can be purchased here http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...RZQKTeQQ==


This is the camera used in this video. It is a Chinese branded replacement but this can be done with universal style cameras as well.
Most of this will only pertain to those who are using this style camera though.



Step 1: Remove handle covers in rear hatch, they pop off, may need to use a screw driver.



Inside you will see 2 7mm bolts each on the inside of both handles.

Step 2: Remove said bolts.



Step 3: Remove the entire rear lower cover by pulling straight down.



Step 4: Remove a total of 6 10mm nuts on the inside of the hatch that hold the outer garnish with the ford emblem on it.




You’ll be left with this after removing the wiring and bringing it to the bench take care not to scratch the paint.



Step 6: Remove any leftover tape residue from both the car and the garnish piece (this can be a pain in the butt but take your time and get it all off because if you don't the corners will lift up and not sit flush anymore.



Step 7: Put the new camera in place.



Step 8: Pull the tape off of the little rubber grommet to allow you to push both the RCA end and the power wire through. Believe me it will fit. She stretches!




Step 9: (Only if you're OCD like me) clean all the things that will never be seen again.




Step 10: Put your double sided tape on your very well cleaned piece (prep the surface after cleaning with alcohol wipes or something similar).




Step 11: Cut the double sided tape to roughly the same shape as it was before.



Step 12: Go completely HAM on the wiring and make it look clean (you could literally just plug the damn things in and zip tie the F&^#ers but who's judging).



Step 13: Get your heat gun out (or hair dryer), Peel the backing of your double sided tape. Heat the car first. Get the metal hot to the touch but not so hot you can't touch it. You don't want to burn the paint. THEN heat the actual tape itself but take care not to overheat it to where it starts to visually scream for help.




Step 14: Put the garnish back on the car the way it came off. PRESS firmly on both corners to set the tape. Hold it for about 15-20 seconds until it cools a little.



Step 15: Reinstall all the nuts holding the rear garnish on.

Rant Time: Now. This has been a looooong debate in my line of work. IF you would like to take my theory then this is how I did it. The rear wiper plug has an ignition wire in it. (NOW I don't have a rear wiper but you can still use this wire if you do) The two theories here are this. Some might say that having the camera on the entire time the car is on will lower the life expectancy of the camera so you should catch a reverse signal to turn the camera on only while in reverse. Then there is my way of thinking (I've been doing this for 14 years now and never seen a camera ''that wasn't a cheap eBay chrome blinged out piece of crap of course" die just from use) If you have the camera already powered up and ready to go. Once the screen switches over it will immediately have a clear picture. Rather than as you put it in gear, the screen switches over as the camera gets power and now the screen is waiting for the camera to get a picture. Once the camera gets a picture it usually then has to adjust for light and clarity to which you see the camera adjusting before you can use it. Top that off with the fact that a lot of reverse lights have very dirty 12v signal meaning it fluctuates a LOT when in reverse. So yea. If a customer of mine insists on having the camera only powered on while in reverse I make them buy a relay so I can still power the camera from a clean 12v wire.

The solid black wire in the plug is the 12v ignition wire I used (the other two for reference are black/white, and in the middle is Light blue)

Step 16: Splice, solder, and tape the wire with the red wire that came with your camera and put a ring terminal on the black ground wire



Step 17: Run your wiring with the factory wires until you get to the boot at the top of the hatch (or bottom if the hatch is open and you look at it that way?)

Fish the wire through the grommet you will only be running the RCA here since we tapped into the power and ground wires in the hatch itself.




Step 18: Go completely ADD and start doing something completely NOT a backup camera install and dynamat all the things



Step 19: You need to run the RCA to the front of the car. It's easy I promise. Just tuck it between the headliner and the plastics and door moldings up the front of the car. If you remove the glove box it makes getting to the radio (and also an optional thing discussed later) a little easier.
!!! When I do this myself, in a week or so, I'll try and take pictures of this for you. He didn’t take pics of this!!!

Step 20: Pull this lower part from below the radio out with your fingers.



Step 21: Remove the 2 Torx screws hidden by that piece.



Step 22: Pull the face of the radio out from the bottom first.



Step 23: Remove the 4 screws holding the screen in.



Step 24: You WILL scratch your dash if you don't take precautions. The screen needs to come relatively straight out but it will come out. The top of the dash can be pushed up quite a bit to create more room but unless a friend is there to help (or you have 4 hands) if you put some tape there it makes it a lot harder to damage the dash.



Step 25: Remove screen completely and unplug it and set it in a safe place.



Grab the harness that was plugged in and on the side you'll see two small clips holding the inside of the plug into the outer portion release those clips and slide the plug out.





Step 26: Find your pins for adding them to the OEM plug and create your RCA plug for the back of the screen (this is where I used stuff I have in the shop and you will have to source them)





Step 27: Add your pins to the plug in location 14 and 15 the center of the RCA which is the positive wire will go to 15 and negative to 14.

Here is the print out posted by JJ91284
http://www.focusst.org/forum/attachm...ingharness.png



Ok now is time to let you guys in on my little secret (most fords have this if it has the sync system btw) There are 2 USB connections on the back of the screen. If you would like to since you are already back there. Find yourself a mini USB male to standard USB female wire and you can have a 3rd USB input for the sync systems.





Step 28: Test!!








Link to the original post by The Muffin Man
http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-...backup-camera-installation-picture-heavy.html

Link to Thread that explains how to enable the APIM Rear Camera
http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-...-camera-enabling-apim-rear-camera-option.html
 

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So I did this install and ran into a issue with the camera not working. When putting car into reverse, I got the error "Rear view Camera not available, contact the dealer". Doint more research I noticed that the pinout for the rear view camera on that connector is:
Pin 14: Rear view Camera +
Pin 15: Rear view Camera -

No my camera that i puchased had 3 wires:
Red: + 12v
Black: Gnd
Yellow: Video Signal
I had to hook Pin 14 to the yellow wire and Pin 15 to Gnd, Then everything worked.

I hope this helps someone else.

Also To remove the screen there is a much easier way then listed in this post. Just requires removing a few more screws.
1. Remove the Lower "Radio Unit" Held in place by two screws T25 Torx, same size as the screen. There were 2 wire harnesses and two antennas to disconeect from the back of that unit to give your self more room
2. Remove 4 Torx T-25 Screws on the black plastic bracket that goes around the screen and the lower radio unit.
3. Remove 4 Torx T-25 screws on the screen.
4.Pull the black plastic frame and screen out together, lots of room to avoid scratching the Dash with the top of the screen.

I tried adding a picture with large red arrow at bottom for the lower radio unit to remove. And two smaller red arrows pointing to the screws on the right side to remove for the black plastic frame. (Matching screws on the left driver side) focusRadio.jpg
 

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Awesome, thank you!

Three things:
  1. The link to buy the female pins is broken.
  2. The link to the pinout diagram (step 27) is broken.
  3. So you don't need to do anything with FORSCAN?
 

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Did any one figure out how to get this to work on the very early build date (9/12) STs? Tried the method and it didn't work. On the original post someone had the same problem on a early build date car.

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Do you have an MFT or an upgrade to Sync 3?

If MFT - I believe you can enable backup camera using Focccus.

If Sync 3 - enable with FORScan

(I'm about to upgrade to Sync 3 & do backup camera at the same time, just waiting for the "3rd USB connector via Amazon")
 

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Wonder if it would be possible to get a Ford part for the handle/camera. I've had a bunch of the parts rounded up to do this mod for a while now, the only reason I haven't installed any of it yet is that I'm iffy about trusting a cheap trunk release button & camera combo. Is there any reason to think the camera's that came on the 2015+ models would fit?
 

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Wonder if it would be possible to get a Ford part for the handle/camera. I've had a bunch of the parts rounded up to do this mod for a while now, the only reason I haven't installed any of it yet is that I'm iffy about trusting a cheap trunk release button & camera combo. Is there any reason to think the camera's that came on the 2015+ models would fit?
So I did some research.

If you happen to have a 13-14 FoST, the 15+ trunk release latch does not work as the connection point in the latch is altogether different. This is why I resorted to the chinese latch camera combo. Speaking of which, I’m going in to do it now. Wish me luck.


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So I've installed the eBay camera/latch. And for my power from the rear wiper. Then ran my video cable forward. Only problem now is the little cable ends to put in the factory plug. I know there was a link but I was hoping to do d somewhere to get them because the website was weird and I only need 2 maybe 6 just to be safe. Anyone have a spot to get them?

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So I've installed the eBay camera/latch. And for my power from the rear wiper. Then ran my video cable forward. Only problem now is the little cable ends to put in the factory plug. I know there was a link but I was hoping to do d somewhere to get them because the website was weird and I only need 2 maybe 6 just to be safe. Anyone have a spot to get them?

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Check out 4dtech.com they sell a harness into which you can connect the av cable. $59 for the harness, I bought a few days ago.


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So I've installed the eBay camera/latch. And for my power from the rear wiper. Then ran my video cable forward. Only problem now is the little cable ends to put in the factory plug. I know there was a link but I was hoping to do d somewhere to get them because the website was weird and I only need 2 maybe 6 just to be safe. Anyone have a spot to get them?

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Out of curiosity, why didn’t you connect to rear lights instead of wiper?


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So I've installed the eBay camera/latch. And for my power from the rear wiper. Then ran my video cable forward. Only problem now is the little cable ends to put in the factory plug. I know there was a link but I was hoping to do d somewhere to get them because the website was weird and I only need 2 maybe 6 just to be safe. Anyone have a spot to get them?

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Btw I didn’t start the install was considering getting a 3rd party to do it but they want $300 for it. I can afford it but don’t know if I need to. How hard was it?


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Out of curiosity, why didn’t you connect to rear lights instead of wiper?


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Because what I've read is if you hook to the reverse lights the signal is weak and there is a delay when putting it into reverse because the power to the reverse lights arent constant like the rear wiper motor

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So far not hard just need to figure out the video in situation, and then get in and turn it on. The guy that posted about 4d has a plug but it's $50. And a flash to turn it on but it's $150
Btw I didn’t start the install was considering getting a 3rd party to do it but they want $300 for it. I can afford it but don’t know if I need to. How hard was it?


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So far not hard just need to figure out the video in situation, and then get in and turn it on. The guy that posted about 4d has a plug but it's $50. And a flash to turn it on but it's $150

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The flash is unnecessary- you can simply use focccus app if you’re on the MFT or FORScan if you’re on sync 3 to do it yourself.


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Because what I've read is if you hook to the reverse lights the signal is weak and there is a delay when putting it into reverse because the power to the reverse lights arent constant like the rear wiper motor

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Does the constant power from the wiper remain on while running the car or off for that matter? I imagine it would be a PITA if the camera or light goes out in the handle to remove that rear fascia again to replace.


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The original poster of this thread said he hasn't had to replace the "Amazon" camera. And there's only power to the camera when the ignition is on. And it's not hard to remove the rear hatch cover
Does the constant power from the wiper remain on while running the car or off for that matter? I imagine it would be a PITA if the camera or light goes out in the handle to remove that rear fascia again to replace.


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