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I have one of the BT readers that works with an iphone. The BT connection isn't the best for monitoring, but it's fine for reading and deleting codes. I don't know which one it was, just search Amazon. It was, like $12, plus $15 for the ap.

Another thing that might help is to do a pull next to a cop and they'll get behind you to see if there's anything odd about your exhaust, like if the ECU is throwing in more fuel in as if in a limp mode.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I have one of the BT readers that works with an iphone. The BT connection isn't the best for monitoring, but it's fine for reading and deleting codes. I don't know which one it was, just search Amazon. It was, like $12, plus $15 for the ap.

Another thing that might help is to do a pull next to a cop and they'll get behind you to see if there's anything odd about your exhaust, like if the ECU is throwing in more fuel in as if in a limp mode.
the car came with a ford performance exhaust , certified pre owned by Ford. Tell me that the exhaust is the issue? I wouldn’t think that an exhaust that ford sells for the specific car would cause an issue. But then again.
And about the cops. Knock on wood but I’m 37 years old with zero points. I know where I can and can’t be a gentleman.
 

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the car came with a ford performance exhaust , certified pre owned by Ford. Tell me that the exhaust is the issue? I wouldn’t think that an exhaust that ford sells for the specific car would cause an issue. But then again.
And about the cops. Knock on wood but I’m 37 years old with zero points. I know where I can and can’t be a gentleman.
It was mainly written as a joke, but if your car was going into a limp mode, it might be obvious from the exhaust. Limp mode consists of pulling timing and dumping in more fuel, which should be noticeable from the exhaust by sight and/or smell.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
It was mainly written as a joke, but if your car was going into a limp mode, it might be obvious from the exhaust. Limp mode consists of pulling timing and dumping in more fuel, which should be noticeable from the exhaust by sight and/or smell.
I’m not trying to come off dickish either but could it be the exhaust.? How does the car act in limp mode? It drives fine but with boost cut in half. Like a over boost safety. And I’m realizing that the check engine light comes on after about three or four of those instances after that boost safety thing happening. I just got lucky to catch it on camera. I will bring back to the dealer one last time, and then to a tuner shop after that if it happens again. I also ordered a scan tool. Am I the only one that has experienced something like this?
 

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Didn't see a response earlier, but what octane are you using?
 

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That doesn't sound like limp mode, then. From what you're reporting, to me, that sounds like the ECU or something else is opening the wastegate. Limp mode feels like the name suggests . . . even worse, maybe, like the engine lost a couple cylinders and the other two are hung over and had gotten into a fight with everyone in the bar. You're going to need to read the code(s) to narrow it down from here.
 

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If this has happened 3 times from the dealer in a short amount of time, lemon law that *****.
Secondly surprised no one has said this, theres no reason to wind the ST out to almost 7k, it just doesnt make power up there. Literally if you had it on a dyno peak torque would be at 3k if not before and peak horsepower would fall off by 5k. Theres no real point in revving past maybe 5500 to 6k on a stock turbo and setup, if your really worried about going faster, youll change gears and let it build speed in the powerband instead of trying to accelerate while losing power. Just saying. This honestly doesnt sound like charge temps or anything to me, ive seen plenty high charge temps on a mazda speed6 with stock top mount and then on my 18 ST when i had a stock fmic, you usually just dont get check engine lights from charge temps unless they are near boiling point temps and if you dont realize your causing that kind of a problem you dont deserve the car, which i think your smarter then to do that to your car. It honestly sounds like either vacuum or boost leak or electrical sensor foul up. But as everyone else said without proper codes, and not being there to hear it or feel it, it really limits the diagnose ability.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
If this has happened 3 times from the dealer in a short amount of time, lemon law that *.
Secondly surprised no one has said this, theres no reason to wind the ST out to almost 7k, it just doesnt make power up there. Literally if you had it on a dyno peak torque would be at 3k if not before and peak horsepower would fall off by 5k. Theres no real point in revving past maybe 5500 to 6k on a stock turbo and setup, if your really worried about going faster, youll change gears and let it build speed in the powerband instead of trying to accelerate while losing power. Just saying. This honestly doesnt sound like charge temps or anything to me, ive seen plenty high charge temps on a mazda speed6 with stock top mount and then on my 18 ST when i had a stock fmic, you usually just dont get check engine lights from charge temps unless they are near boiling point temps and if you dont realize your causing that kind of a problem you dont deserve the car, which i think your smarter then to do that to your car. It honestly sounds like either vacuum or boost leak or electrical sensor foul up. But as everyone else said without proper codes, and not being there to hear it or feel it, it really limits the diagnose ability.
I couldn’t agree with you any more. At the beginning of this thread I was told not to “mash” it in 5th gear at 80mph, so I did 4th gear pull on video to see it would go into that boost limp mode or whatever it’s called, seems to be no term for it. You are absolutely correct that power drops off after 5k.
Now about that lemon law, possibly could go that route.
But I’m not giving up yet since there isn’t many certified pre-owned focuses around. And I’m sure if I put it on the dyno it would be easier to troubleshoot this issue.
Also the scanners are in the mail. I got both mentioned previously in this thread and will return the one I like least.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
If you try to get it lemon lawed for a boost problem that happens at 115 mph, I'd love to read a transcript of the conversation with the dealer and any subsequent relevant parties.
I simply don’t have do any of that. Just the fact that a stock car is throwing a check engine light after a highway pull.
The video shows double digits, and I promise you I will be showing it to the service manager. Also, was thinking of printing out this thread to go over with the head tech to give him some ideas into what to dig into for that is creating this issue. So what can I show him out of this thread so far?
Also the ST manual says the car can be track driven and still keep its warranty as long as the car isn’t modified with non ford performance parts.. am I correct?
And like I said I don’t want to but a lemon law is an option in the end, and not hard to do here in NJ.
But before all that, I will prob pay out of my pocket and run it on a dyno to troubleshoot this problem.
 

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Similar problem with my 17 St, pulled good a few times them threw a code P0299 (turbocharger underboost), might not be the same code as yours has but all the symptoms mine did and its currently getting its bypass valve replaced @ Ford.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Similar problem with my 17 St, pulled good a few times them threw a code P0299 (turbocharger underboost), might not be the same code as yours has but all the symptoms mine did and its currently getting its bypass valve replaced @ Ford.
Thank you for your input, hopefully that resolves it. Let me know.
 

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Before you consider lemon law, be patient. In the big picture, this is a low mileage car that isnt produced anymore. If it goes to lemon law it goes to the crusher. The issue is probably something simple, so please be patient. As i said in my original post, NO technician in their right mind will be able to actually duplicate this concern. So basically they will be changing parts based on codes, and i can't fault them for that. In this instance, YOU, the driver, are part of the diagnostic process.

I do like your idea of using a dyno. But maybe ford can involve their Field Service Engineer who maybe can be present for this dyno run and do his testing there.
 

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It’s code P0299 underboost.
Well. The usual suspects for this code are as follows.

Torn Bypass Valve on the turbo
Bad Wastegate control solenoid, (by the turbo)
Bad Bypass valve control solenoid (on the valve cover)
Torn Sound symposer diaphragm
Boost leak

I'm trying to think of more, if i can remember them, I'll post up.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Well. The usual suspects for this code are as follows.

Torn Bypass Valve on the turbo
Bad Wastegate control solenoid, (by the turbo)
Bad Bypass valve control solenoid (on the valve cover)
Torn Sound symposer diaphragm
Boost leak

I'm trying to think of more, if i can remember them, I'll post up.
Thank you
 
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